Tips on closed endbell motors?
 

Hi guys,

My local track is starting a Tamiya spec class and we have to use the stock kit silver can motors. Are there any tips and tricks to getting the maximum potential out of these motors?

The biggest difference I have found is to dip them in water to accelerate brush break in. The brushes on these motors are reverse arc (for lack of a better term), like if you put a standup brush in a laydown hood. Dipping them in water makes them the same shape as the comm.

Thanks for the info. Do I run the motor while its in the water? Or just dip it and let it dry out?

Dip it in the water and then run 3-4 cells for about ten minutes, take it out dry and reoil, and then repeat until the brushes appear to be better seated.

they usually go a lot better after this type of process

The water trick really works good
 

I was able to get about 600~700 RPM more out of the 540 that I have !!:weird: :nod:

Water dipping does work to help break in the motors but I have found that running the motor for 15 minutes in its regular direction and then running it in reverse for another 15 minutes and doing this until you cannot stand to do it anymore then clean the motor. This has produced the best results for me. By altering the direction of rotation it seems to wear the brush down the center wich will increase the torque a bit. I usually use about 3-5 volts and a fan on the motor. I also use some liquid metal polish on the bushings during this process to open them up a little just be carefull not to get any on the brushes.

later
Jesse

Thanks again for the help guys. I'll definitely try out the tips mentioned and see how everything goes. :)

In addition to water dipping, you can try some Trinity bushing buster on the bushings to accelerate break in. I also have used Brasso on the comm (after water dip break in is done) to polish the comm. We've seen 500-1,000 rpm increase, depending on the motor. Just put a drop or two and run for 1-2 minutes with a 4-cell batt.

With Mabuchis and Johnsons, sometimes it's the luck of the draw on which motor you happen to buy. You can find significant rpm differences between motors.

Dan

Hopefully we don't get rained out this weekend, eh? :lol:

If you use bushing buster, be very careful to clean all of it out! It contains pumice (a very rough volcanic rock.) If you don't get it all out of there, it will continue to chew up the bushings until you end up with a can with an armature flopping around inside. The water dip method is generally used when you want to break in a motor very quickly. I'd only do it for a couple minutes, though. I think 10 minutes is too much. Also, be careful! The motor is pulling enough current to be deadly. I found that running the motor at 5V in 2 minute increments for 10 or 12 minutes breaks the motor in well. I tested it on the dyno after each run and stopped seeing an improvement after 10 minutes.

Dan what are you running the silver can motor in? What car? Which track? :D



Oh yeah howdy do DT (psycho) :D

psycho, hope not! Although weather doesn't seem too bad so far. :nod: I'll be racing with you guys soon as soon. I decided to not run my TA03's. One of them is decked out with everything on it but its in So. Cal with my cousin. The other needs some major work. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind. :cool:

Syde, I plan on picking up a TB-01 after I sell my B3. Sheldons just started this class. Hey, still have that extra F201? You going to come out and race or not? :smile:

You have a B3? :weird: How did this happen? :p

How about me shoving a silver can in my 414m2 and come run widcha? :D
Yes got the F1.And yes pyscho I'm lame cause the F201 isn't finished yet. :D I always waiting for upgrades for it. :cry: It's a rollling chassis with no electronics.
Race? Not this weekend. I'm not free to race. Tell me when the next Sheldon's race is and I'll go with you.

psycho

Have you bought anything from TheNige before on the Formula1 rc site? Any problems?

I can ask you the same thing. When did you get a 414?! :D

Oh yeah, no 414's allowed. :lol: Has to be a TA01-TA03, TB-01, TL-01, FF02, MO4L, etc. with kit tires. No TA04's though.

I may be interested in the F201. Just need to sell off my Pro 3 too. Anyways, let you know when I buy my TB-01 and race.

Run whatcha brung....silver can only
 

I don't see why 414/TA04's can't be allowed in your series.

Lately a few of the guys at the Tamiya America Track have been goofing around with silver cans in hi performance tc's. A long time ago I put a johnson in my 414 just for fun.

Right now, I'm running a johnson in my Tricked und Ti'ed out TA04R and believe me, it's a blast...slow speed plus dialed handling equals good door to door, blocking, hacking, dirty driving (in a fun way) action that won't sideline the car in the even of a wreck. It places emphasis on driving a THE LINE around the track in order to put in good laps. Believe it or not, a bunch of the fully loaded TL01's have me covered in straightline speed and I can't gear the 04 high enough to keep up with them through the long straight and sweeper at our track (112/51:)

I guess my point is, don't rule out the 414/TA04 out of your series until you do some testing...it sure is fun in any event :)

Sorry for the late reply, I was out yesterday. We are running a Tamiya 540 only class sort of like the TCS GT2 class. The idea is to allow the guys that have old Tamiya cars that aren't competitive with the likes of your 414, Sydewinder! You must run a tub chassis, not TA04 car with kit tires. None of the hopup or belted tires are allowed and you must run a silver can 540 motor. It is a really fun class, so I encourage you to pick up a cheap Tamiya car and come racing with us!

I recommend Formula1-rc.com highly. TheNige (Jake) is very easy to work with and you get your stuff fast, since there's no ground service from Hawaii! :lol: His decals are exceptional if you buy any that he has made.

I hope to see you guys at Sheldons on Sat. Should be a fun one!