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Old 11-13-2002, 10:18 PM   #16
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Ok Dan & psycho

How about M03s? Can I run my mini? Ehh I have to run the TL01 then.

Thanks psycho for the TheNige info. The decals are what I want to get but he's always out. ]

Dan
Let me know when you're getting the TB01. I can't go to Sheldon's this Saturday though.
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Old 11-13-2002, 10:35 PM   #17
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I think there are a few guys running mini's too. Yeah, pretty sure they're allowed. I'm not going to be at Sheldons this Saturday, although I would like to check it out, I got some things to do back home. I'll probably pick up my TB-01 in 2 weeks or so.
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Old 11-14-2002, 10:11 AM   #18
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Sydewynder

Run the TL01. You'll be competitive in that car. I'm running a TA03FS. The track width is a bit narrow on the M, but they are fun to watch. They look to be a handful on the track, though! This class was intended to be a fun class where people can run their old Tamiya cars and not worry about motor or tire wars. As long as it has a tub chassis, kit tires, a silver can 540 motor and a Tamiya body, it's fine. If you don't meet all those criteria, come and race anyways. As long as you don't win, no one will complain! Here's some pix of the grid from the last race. That's me in P2 he he he... I'm still working on the decals.



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Old 11-14-2002, 10:02 PM   #19
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Way cool!

Nice to see a race filled with GT style cars instead of your usual Stratus-bodied races.
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:05 PM   #20
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In addition to the water dip, you might want to try the following:

1) Clean the comm. Use a fiberglass cleaning stick, with a piece of shrink wrap covering all but the tip. Insert it into the motor from one of the two side holes, you should be able to reach the comm.

2) Clean the brushes. How you ask? Place a couple of drops of bushing buster directly on the comm. Run the motor at 2 volts for about 10 secs. (It won't want to spin, will act like an engine that is missing a cylinder). Clean well with motor spray afterward, making sure that you carefully separate the brushes from the comm (small screwdriver tip reaching into the end bell and pulling back the motor brush spring metal) and spraying the comm surface.

3) Try a single drop of turbo rc comm drops.

Using all of the above, I can usually get a silver can up to a 32 power number on a fantom dyno. Without the above, expect about 26-28 power number. Decent RPM will be about 12,500.

Once in a while you will get an "exceptional" silver can. Without any illegal manipulation of the motor (no cranking the comm, etc), I have, following the above, found a couple of really good ones, where I can get the power up to 40, and RPM up to 15500.
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:37 PM   #21
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If you are going to use bushing buster on anything, you have to be very careful. It contains pumice which you can never fully remove from the bushings, brushes or comm. I would suggest not using it unless you intend to replace your motors frequently.

sydewinder

We missed you at Sheldons today. Lot's of fun racing. The Tamiya 540 class was wild and wooly with plenty of carnage! Fun racing, though. I kept making mistakes because I was laughing so hard at the mayhem occuring behind me.
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Old 11-17-2002, 04:07 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by minidriver
..........................3) Try a single drop of turbo rc comm drops............
Do you mean Tribo comm drops?
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Old 11-18-2002, 02:00 AM   #23
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Default water break in?

Are you guys serious??

how can u break motor in underwater... water conducts electricity.
Wouldnt this short out the motor and batteries??
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Old 11-18-2002, 10:49 AM   #24
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-CriMinaL- |RC

Yes, we are serious. Yes, water does conduct and this is extremeny dangerous to do, but the motor will run under water and it dramatically speeds up the breaking process.
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Old 11-18-2002, 08:46 PM   #25
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Yes, Tribo comm drops.

As for the comment on using bushing buster, yes, you do have to clean it out well. However, I still think it helps to use it to clean the brushes, which are otherwise inaccessible to cleaning.
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Old 11-19-2002, 12:29 AM   #26
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Is it possible to over do the water break in? I water dipped a handout 540 at TCS race until the brushes went from reverse arc to hugging the comm. The motor spun at a noticeably higher rpm (just hearing them spin) than a buddies motor who also water dipped, but on the track my car was SLOW, SLOW, SLOW It was installed in an M03 (mini).

Last edited by minicooper; 11-19-2002 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 11-19-2002, 07:37 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by minicooper
Is it possible to over do the water break in? I water dipped a handout 540 at TCS race until the brushes went from reverse arc to hugging the comm. The motor spun at a noticeably higher rpm (just hearing them spin) than a buddies motor who also water dipped, but on the track my car was SLOW, SLOW, SLOW It was installed in an M03 (mini).
You did put in comm drops afterwards?

Water Dripping gave you more contact area ...

more contact area = more current
but also
more contact area = more friction
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Old 11-19-2002, 08:17 AM   #28
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Default Water dipping

Water dipping should only last a few seconds, not 10 minutes! You want to break-in the brush, not eat it up!!!

the trick is to pull the motor out as soon as the glass of water gets "foggy" with brush dust... usually 10s is waaaay enough. in 10 minutes, you probably eat all the brush... hence the spring tension decreases dramatically, and so does brush drag. you end up with a motor that has tons of rpm with no load, but is a turd under load (no spring tension = brush bounce = no power + comm wear).

It's not dangerous at all, unless you spill the glass of dirty water on the dining room carpet after the break in. The resistance of the motor is nothing compared to the glass of water's... 99.99% of the current flows through the motor, not the liquid. Don't worry, there's close to zero risk.

Don't forget to spray the whole thingh with motor spray and oil the bushings once you're done.

Good Luck

Paul
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Old 11-19-2002, 09:45 AM   #29
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DO NOT USE MOTOR SPRAY on the motors it will kill them. It destroys the brushes takes all the lubrication in the brushes away. A good alternative is like a wd-40 or something like that it does a good job cleaning the brushes and com but does not dry them out. I have a glass jar full of wd-40 and run the motor in it for a couple of seconds and it comes out extremely clean and well lubricated. I them use light air pressure to blow the excess out of the motor. If you have a good dyno you will see the difference between a motor that has had motor spray and one that hasen't.
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Old 11-19-2002, 01:36 PM   #30
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Default All Tamiya Class?

THere's a place that runs an exclusive tamiya class and isn't at TCS? WHere is that at?! I just bought a TB Evo2, and would wish to test it out somewhere. Where did you race that? I still have my Mabuchi 540 motors from my very first RCs like 5 years ago (FF-01 and TL-02). I did the water break-in on it a few years back, but it ended up eating up the motors within like a few days. After a few runs, the motor started going slower than a tyco toy. lol. ANyways, please someone give the info on where this race is at=). BTW. Anyone know where's a good place to buy TB Evo2 parts? they seem hard to come by. Thanks=)
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