jgil089

I think I'll need some new springs. I grabbed a set of the TRF springs but it looks like they just give soft/med/hard etc rather than spring rates, so who knows what they are. From the few set up sheets I've found it appears most people run the same springs f & r, I've always had harder up front.

I have A-A blocks up front and 2.5deg rear toe and don't plan to change at this stage.

herrokero

I used to run harder springs on the front, which I could get a fast lap time in qualifiers but never had the agility to change line and overtake someone during a race.
Personally, I run E-E front and XA-E (3 degrees) back. C-C front was too pointy for me on my TA07RR.

If you can splurge on the adjustable suspension mount blocks, go for it. Great option for setup

jgil089

I should have bought the adjustable blocks recently when I built my FF04 (no idea why that came with plastic suspension block!) but stupidly didn't. That wouldve been ideal as I could've swapped them around and not spent anymore money. Live and learn i suppose.

Interesting about the agility with stiffer shocks up front. Will have to try it out, luckily the club usually has an hour or so of practice before racing starts so will have plenty of opportunity

Dan

iTrader: (75)

For $100, the inexpensive Jazrider conversion kit for the TA07 worked very well on asphalt last weekend and on medium traction gray carpet. Did not like it on black carpet at all though.

Highly recommend it for outdoor use to make the TA07 a little more competitive.

herrokero

To clarify, a setup that can make a fast qualifying time, may not be good for a race where you won't always be on the optimal racing line.

So usually I'll set up the car to be on the sensitive/oversteery side, then dial it down with the radio. You can take away sensitivity with the radio, but you can't add it.
I think it's pretty standard to start with the same springs front and back, then work from there. Usually people go softer front springs, pretty rare for people to run harder front springs. Obviously it won't work for every situation or car

h2e

First time I see that conversion. Seems cheap for the contents, and very similar to the RCLabHK design. TA07 on black carpet needs a lot of stiffening, maybe that kit is not enough with the standard plastic bulkheads. Do you have the CF reinforced parts there?

Dan

iTrader: (75)

The carbon weave was not perfectly straight, but somewhat symmetrical. Probably not real 100% carbon fiber. But the aluminum floating servo mount and other aluminum pieces included were machined well. Overall a good deal considering it comes with those aluminum pieces and carbon front/rear towers. Even includes a pair of soft and stiffer upper rails.

Even using additional posts secured on the upper rails, it was still not great on black carpet. But perfect for asphalt.

On my other TA07, I just use the carbon reinforced Tamiya plastic for all parts and it is perfectly stiff enough for black carpet.

jgil089

I've upgraded my TA07 Pro to the point where I don't need much to build another standard Pro. The last thing I need are a pair of universals. This is supposed to be cheap so I don't want a set of DCJ's and am happy with anything that will fit. I expected that Yeah Racing or GPM or similar would have something but the usual places don't have anything in stock. How compatible are universals across brands? RCMart have some 44mm ones wgich are for the Sakura D5 - would these fit or are there differences that mean they won't?

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Just recently converted to the RS7 chassis. Also did aluminum toe blocks. Anyone have a good setup for low to medium traction asphalt? My car seems to push, under power through the entire corner. The cars rear end also skates around if accelerated and turned too quick. It’s not impossible to drive but it drives nothing like a box stock TA07 Pro basic setup. I’ll try and list upgrades I have done different from stock to help others, help me.
diffs:1,000,000 front 3k rear
toe blocks with dead center hinge pin location per instructions
trf420 steering setup
carbon towers front and rear with center positioning
springs: yellow front red rear
heavy front sway bar, light rear
volante 36 tires
2 degrees camber all around
toe out in front
battery position in center
ride height 5 front 5.4-5.6 rear
droop 1 in front or rear
35 weight shock fluid.
2 weeks ago I ran a box stock TA07 and it hooked up well. Now, it’s a totally different animal with a near spool up front, sway bars all around, not sure the toe blocks inserts are the right ones. So many changes were made that I’m not sure where the best place is to start in fixing my issues. New to onroad. Really new to setup and effects of setup. Picked up the Hudy online tutorial setup and starting to read that. Any advice would be helpful please. Or a setup sheet that would get me close please.

UPDATE:When I did the chassis conversion I also, as stated, installed a lot of hop ups. Carbon fiber towers, adjustable suspension mounts, diff fluids and seals. When installing the front and rear adjustable suspension mounts, on a TA07 Pro, it doesn't give me a suggested insert to use for setup. The TA07RR does. The package that the hop up suspension mount comes in, does give a suggested insert to use. SOOOOOO, correct me if I am wrong as I am going off of memory as I am at work and the car is at home...... I think I greatly increased my roll center. I think that is where I went severely wrong. The individual suspension mount insert suggested was the N1. The RR kit manual suggests using the N4 insert for the rear/rear toe block and a N4 for the front/rear toe block. On the front of the car, I also inserted the N1 insert but the RR kit suggests using the N6, N7 inserts on the front/front toe blocks and the N4 on the front/rear toe block. So, it sounds confusing at first and I'm still trying to wrap my head around what exactly this does. I guess, by lowering the roll center by way of suspensions mounts, you allow more body roll and transferring more weight to the outside of the car, allowing for more traction to take place? I guess the same can be achieved by raising your inner camber link at the bulkhead. Not sure if it has the same effect. Watched a video by Kasten Racing a little bit ago because I was curious as to what differences I had made. Once I downloaded the RR manual and saw what their setup was, it all started to make sense. Please, chime in if I am off my rocker or there is more to learn.

h2e

Have you got some acceptable tyres, or are they worn? Are all bearings running smoothly, or do you have binding? How about the drive shafts? Is every topdeck screw attached properly (maybe with threadlock), as this can have a huge effect with vertical topdecks.

Widening the front track width (similar to 1F or 1G in old-style Tamiya language) helped me with my (completely different brand) TA07 carbon conversion. You can also try to have less droop in the front (1mm over ride height in the front, 2mm in the back). Droop is a very sensitive tool to alter the balance. The springs seem a bit soft, so maybe you want to use blue in the front, yellow in the back.
Good luck trying!

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Tires are Volante 36's. 1 race on them. Fine. Vehicle is one race old. New chassis is new. I just adjusted my roll center yesterday to the proper setup going off of a TA07RR manual. I bought all the hop ups for the Pro but went of individual packaging recommendations. Wrong idea there. Those springs worked well on the original chassis. I can try different springs for sure.
Topdeck screws go into plastic so no threadlock. I will try the droop setting and see what happens. Good baseline for sure. I am also running 5.0 front and 5.4 rear for ride height.

Baconator

I came real close to buying a TA08 this weekend. Instead I ended up buying a new TA07 Pro and an Exotek carbon conversion kit.
I hope I made the right choice. I think I bought the last Exotek on the internet.
couldn’t find much info comparing the different brand conversions, so I went with a company I trust.

Baconator

so it turns out that the eBay chassis seller had the FWD conversion chassis, but advertised the RS7. So I am without.
I did reach out to Exotek to see if and when their kit will be in stock.
also considering the PSM kit. But I do not know the quality of that kit.
EDIT: Exotek returned my email and they have discontinued the RS7 kit. I decided to order the PSM kit.

jgil089

I have the RS7 kit and really rate it. Its a big improvement over the standard Pro, the lower motor and pulleys make it look a lot more like the Xrays etc.
RCMart are showing the RS7 in stock if you had your heart set on it.

Baconator

I did see that. But having never ordered from them I was afraid that I would get another “oops, sorry. We only have the fwd kit available, not the RS7. Would like that instead” Email…
So after some quick research I ordered the PSM kit. I’m hoping I can find some setup info to help steer me in the right direction (pardon the pun)
How is shipping to the states from RCmart ?
I’m guessing pricey and or a couple week wait?