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Old 12-12-2005, 06:06 PM   #1
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First F201....

Hello everyone, I'm an old racer from 25 years ago that used to do dirt in an old Tamiya Grasshopper. If anybody remembers a dirt track built in the late 70's behind the B&I in Tacoma, Wa....I helped build it when I was a kid. It's long gone now and so is the Grasshopper but I recently assembled an F201 for competition and am eagerly waiting to re-learn driving r/c. I bought the basic kit and a bunch of upgrades ( turnbuckles, lite diffs, aluminum shocks, lower control arms, etc).

I'm surprised at how many hop-up parts there are. The temptation to make everything titanium and aluminum is tasty but it it really worth it?

Granted I'm a n00b so I'm gonna break stuff, but what, in your opinions, is the necessarys vs. the not so necessarys. I found some trick aluminum wheel hubs: good part or is stock plastic ok? Various titanium parts (ball joints, turnbuckles, drive axles, chassis screws, etc) good stuff or marketing hype?

Money isn't the problem as I don't have an issue tricking out the car if it will really help. Another thing, is there any to scale aluminum wheels for these? The plastic ones seem rather cheap and plain.

Thanx for all the feedback,

ScaryMonster
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:56 PM   #2
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luckily most of the hopups for that car are geared towards racing. Lighter when needed and stronger where needed. You would be hard pressed to find a wrong part for this car.

Alloy wheels will be scale but are not the right thing for racing. For a shelf queen go for it. If your gonna race plastic is faster and more durable.

Recomended:
-Ti screws
-Ti turnbuckles
-graphite shafts
-cvd up grades.
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:18 PM   #3
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Check out the Tamiya website as there's a review on the F201 and also tells you what the optional bits do.
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarymonster
Hello everyone, I'm an old racer from 25 years ago that used to do dirt in an old Tamiya Grasshopper. If anybody remembers a dirt track built in the late 70's behind the B&I in Tacoma, Wa....I helped build it when I was a kid. It's long gone now and so is the Grasshopper but I recently assembled an F201 for competition and am eagerly waiting to re-learn driving r/c. I bought the basic kit and a bunch of upgrades ( turnbuckles, lite diffs, aluminum shocks, lower control arms, etc).

I'm surprised at how many hop-up parts there are. The temptation to make everything titanium and aluminum is tasty but it it really worth it?

Granted I'm a n00b so I'm gonna break stuff, but what, in your opinions, is the necessarys vs. the not so necessarys. I found some trick aluminum wheel hubs: good part or is stock plastic ok? Various titanium parts (ball joints, turnbuckles, drive axles, chassis screws, etc) good stuff or marketing hype?

Money isn't the problem as I don't have an issue tricking out the car if it will really help. Another thing, is there any to scale aluminum wheels for these? The plastic ones seem rather cheap and plain.

Thanx for all the feedback,

ScaryMonster
F201 is one of my favorite class to run (I'm a F1 nut ) and if anything, I highly suggest NOT using the kit tires. Get some aftermarket Tamiya tires (Type A or Type B depending on the weather) or Pit Shimizus. The kit tires don't offer much grip and wears out very fast, basically a waste of a good set of rims.

Steve Wang
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:29 PM   #5
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if you still in tacoma then you know FW is still in business and has the biggest outdoor racing program in the NW.
there is also a new indoor track in kent, seattle indoor raceway. they have a web site if your not familar with them. I go a little against the grain in the hop up department until recently. i ran a basicly box stock F-1 and competed just fine against the big money f-1's. however i have moved on/up to a MLP chassis with all the bling bling. if your still in the NW come to sir and look me up or one of the others there, will be be more then happy to get you going. also we have a every other saturday f-1 point series race going. next race this saturday.
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:33 PM   #6
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reinforced suspension arms are a must

racing around a track with standard arms is a recipe for disaster as they break way too easily
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:57 PM   #7
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Talking

Thanx for the replys gents...SIR is where I purchased the kit and upgrades. And honestly wasn't positively sure about the old off-road track...just assumed I guess. Again I haven't done this in nearly 25 years...

Assembling the car I got everything as even, uniformly tightened, and free of any binding movements as I could. The suspension moves freely but with very little wiggly when fully extended, yet I made sure that when fully compressed the axle shafts weren't binding either. Dunno about castor/camber, toe-in/toe/toe-out, weight distro, and all the other "stuff" I 've been reading...don't have an accurate way to set that yet.

Good advice on rims and tires...I wanna race not dust it off periodically so I guess I'll just paint them...would be cool to have some sweet rims and tires though for when you want to putt around showing it off...

As for the chassis, the stock one is kinda whimpy, don't ya think? Which is stiffer? Carbon fiber or graphite? Are they that much better or will ol' twisty do?

I don't have a radio, ecm, or charger yet, just the car, and two sets of batteries. Looks like it'll be a bit before I can get the radio so I'm content upgrade it, and learn as much as I can...thanks again for the help, I'll be back regularly if you don't mind...
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:13 AM   #8
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my mistake, the old off road track is gone, fw races in the mega foods parking lot off of 84th in tacoma, soon to be moving north of 72th by where the old home base was.
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:42 AM   #9
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3R has a graphite chassis.
here is a link to another chassis. http://www.mlpmotorsports.net/
i would have ordered the mlp chassis but its been confusing to navagate his website. it is now going through some upgrades. once its done i will probably order one of his chassis. i bought a used car with the 3r chassis. the dimensions are similar to the stock chassis. its hard to mount electronics.

mlp is also designing a nitro F1.
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Old 12-13-2005, 11:33 AM   #10
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Scary, Ritchie and I both run the MLP there at SIR and it has been a very consistent and Fast chassis. Compared to the stock plastic it is a huge upgrade in feel and set-up.
If you have the time stop by Saturday as Ritchie posted the last round of our F1 series is this weekend. We are planning another points series starting in January and there are a few open spots if you want to get in. Don't worry about the rust as there is a few of the other drivers who are new to cars and they have been adjusting well.


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Old 12-13-2005, 12:02 PM   #11
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Anyone know where to get some RedBull decals for these? I have to support Scott Speed "The great American hope"
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Old 12-13-2005, 12:16 PM   #12
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What Steve Wang said is solid advice. He and I have both made the a-main at the TCS nats and love these cars. My personal take with f201 is keep it all Tamiya (inc. hopups) with the exception of shims and screws. As long as Tamiya is running the f201 as an official class for TCS, run it. This is some of the most fun I have had racing period. There is usually a TCS race in WA and it looks like SIR has one this year instead of Burien. Check out the rules and schedule at http://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs_races/index.php The entry into TCS is free and if you make the top 10 at your regional, you are invited to the nats in SoCal in August. I highly recommend it as all of the racers are super cool and it's a great hangout at a great track.

As for hopups, you don't need much:

-aluminum rocker arms are nice but not necessary.
-3 hole hopup pistons (start with 60wt)
-spring set
-heavy duty a-arms
-type A tires (80 deg ambient temp or colder) or Type B tires for hot weather. Pit Shimizu are great and last a long time. Use them for club races but they are illegal for TCS so have both if you want to run TCS.
-lightweight diff halves are a must and make the car way better
-get rear uprights/knuckles for spares. I have broken these more than anything.
-get the B parts as the lower bulkhead breaks sometimes in frontal crashes. The HD a-arms help this a lot.
-get the 6mm aluminum hex drives and make sure you shim them correctly.
-buy a few extra chassis as they tweak from heat and you end up throwing them away.
-the aluminum motor brace and aluminum motor mount are good hopups.
-get a set of the high speed gears just so you have them for other tracks.
-remove front fiberglass swaybar brace - once you are comfortable and not hitting anything.

Other than the basics, make sure you get the car working well. The right tires and a properly working car will overcome most other handling issues. Get these in order first.

edit - If you never plan to do TCS... get a graphite/carbon chassis. The car will handle much better.
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Old 12-13-2005, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Anyone know where to get some RedBull decals for these? I have to support Scott Speed "The great American hope"
http://www.formula1-rc.com/Default.a...15&CatalogID=1
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Old 12-13-2005, 12:37 PM   #14
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That MLP products page always has me confused lol

Whats the price on just the upgrade parts on the scfpro upgrade? Is it $85.00?

I have been planning on making the upgrade on my f201 for about 6-months.
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Old 12-13-2005, 02:08 PM   #15
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Unfortunately I won't be able to attend...and again I don't have a radio yet. Looks like I won't be able to get up there for a bit but no worries. Like I said I'm content to upgrade the crap out of it.

I've installed the following items:

Reinforced lower A arms
lite weight (plastic) counter gears
lite weight diffs (don't know if they are the Delrin versions...does it matter?)
aluminum shock tubes
aluminum steering arm (non servo-saver version)
turnbuckles (steel Tamiya part w/ adjuster nut)
lite weight spindle sets
aluminum rockers for wheel dampers
aluminum motor mount

I'm prolly going to go overboard with the mods but my goal is to get the car as lite, stiff, and durable as possible and then learn to drive it from there.

This is what I'm planning:

Ceramic bearing kit
Ceramic diff balls
Titanium dog bones
Titanium chassis screws
Titanium ball studs
Titanium turnbuckles
Titanium axles
Tamiya lo-friction ball connectors
Aluminum wheel knuckles (front and rear)
Aluminum clamp type wheel hubs
Anodized wheel nuts
Racing springs

I found some cheap replacement stock size wheels that are six spoked, black plastic, and are supposed to be ok for an F201. Will these be allowed at SIR? 26mm I believe. This may sound like overkill but I want it bulletproof mechanically. Also all the titanium should lighten the car significantly over the majority of the competition. I've seen this tweak-board thingy from Integy will laser sights and such to accurately set the suspension parameters. Needed accessory? I'm looking for a good multi-compartment enclosure for tools and spare parts and to also cart the car and radio to and from the track. Any ideas there?


Thanx again!

Scarymonster
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