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Old 11-08-2002, 11:30 AM   #16
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yeah....i ran into a couple things. The stock motor that is came with doesn't have screws for me to take the endbell off.

Anyways...I was looking at the Trinity P2K2 Pro. Is this a good motor for me to start out with?

As for the gearing...I don't really understand "6.5:1". I understand the teeth on the pinion and spur gear though. How do you figure out 6.5:1? I know there is some math involved (thank god i am taking math in college). But I don't know what numbers I have to divide and/or multiply.

Another thing is....when I was watching the races at the track...I noticed that after a car came out of a turn....it blasted off and had a lot of power out of the turn. I ran my car yesterday and my car didn't really have a lot of power coming out of the turn. Also, their cars took corners really fast and they stayed up to speed. When I took a corner going full throttle, while in the turn, the power seemed to be lost somewhere. I know this may be a whole nother story....but I just wanted to know what the deal with that is. Thanks

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Old 11-08-2002, 11:39 AM   #17
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Here are some motors I have been looking at. Tell me what you guys think:

Associated MVP Stock Plus Rebuildable Motor (doesn't state that it's ROAR Legal)


Trinity P2k2 Pro Stock Motor (ROAR Legal)
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Old 11-08-2002, 12:11 PM   #18
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OK here goes, you are mostly correct...

Motors-

Stock- Roar (most common standard) 27 turns, of 24 guages wires, one single wire wound , timing locted at 24 degrees. Bushed cans only.
IFMAR (outdated and rarely used any more) 27 turns of 24guage wire wound single, 36 degrees of timing, bushed can.

Spec- 19 turns, single wire, 24 degrees of timing, bushed can

Modified- any motor not conforming to the above mentioned specs


Your motor- 19 turns, single wire, 0 degrees of timing, bushed can.


In theory your 19 turn should be faster than a stock motor.... however you haven't taken the amount of timing into effect. With 24 degrees of timing a stock motor creates a ton more horsepower and slightly higher RPM's, so a stock motor will be faster than your motor, however you won't get as much runtime out of a stocker.

When geared properly there should only be a few MPH difference between a stock motor and the hottest modified motor, but where mod becomes much quicker is the rate of acceleration.
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Old 11-08-2002, 01:06 PM   #19
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So the Trinity P2K2 Pro is faster than my stock 19 turn motor that came with my TC3? I think I am right. So, basically, if I get the P2K2 Pro, I just have to mess around with the gearing?
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Old 11-08-2002, 02:49 PM   #20
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The car should have car should have came with a 28 tooth pinion, that is where you should start with a P2K2, I would get a 27 and 29 toot pinion also, run them all and see which one feels the best.
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Old 11-08-2002, 04:27 PM   #21
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I personally prefer the MVP motor to any other stock motor, but until you learn how to get the most out of a motor and how to gear, I would stay away from it. They run hotter than any other stock motor, so they are more likely to burn up if you over gear it. The same is true of the Trinity Green Machine motor. Stick with the P2K2. It's a good motor and you'l be happy with it. Assuming everything is working the way it's supposed to, a 19T motor will be faster than a stock motor.

As far as gearing goes, this is important to understand. Since you can put any of a number of spur gears on the car, it's better to learn how to mathematically calculate the gear ratio rather than use the pinion and spur numbers. Fist off, on a sedan, you have an "internal transmission ratio." This is the gear reduction that the diff pulleys and bevel gears achieve. In the case of the TC3, that number is 2.50. Here's how you calculate the gear ratio: <spurgear teeth>/<piniongear teeth> X <internal transmission ratio> For example, say you are running a 100T spur and a 30T pinion. 100/30=3.33 3.33X2.5=8.33:1 gear ratio.

What you are describing in the turns sounds like you are scrubbing speed and the other guys are not. There are a lot of things that can cause this. Body roll and push are the most likely causes. If you adjust the droop to around 1mm up front and 2 or 3mm in back, you should have a much better handling car. You can change tires/inserts, spring rate and dampening to change the amount of mechanical grip the cars has. Then there's camber, castor and toe that may help as well. Confused yet? Ideally, you want to reduce the amount of steering input required to make the car turn in the sweeper so you don't scrub as much speed. You'll just need to go experiment on the track to master the setup of the car. Reading stuff on a message board can point you in the right direction, but ultimately, you will learn more from trial and error than anything else. You can download setup sheets from AE's webpage and copy the setup of their pro drivers. That's an excellent place to start. Just make sure you pick one that matches the way you will be racing. Don't use a one-way setup sheet if you're running diffs. Don't use a foam tire on carpet setup if you're running rubber on asphalt. You get the idea. I hope that helps.
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Old 11-09-2002, 03:43 AM   #22
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Psycho-I have driven a RTR TC3 with the stock 19T motor ad it cannot compare to a true stock motor driven tourer.... it has no torque with rpm's that barely match some of the worst stockers I have ever seen......
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Old 11-09-2002, 09:30 AM   #23
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Default Racing vs Bashing

He (unknown) DID say he was racing in an earlier post.
Yes, the best way to calculate gearing is by figuring your final G/R. Most stock motors come with somekind of overall gearing recommendation in the instruction sheet.

IMPACTPLAYR;

A "STOCK" motor as fast as a "Modified" ? I haven't seen one yet at any of the tracks I race at. A correctly geared Modified motor can approach speeds of 45-50 mph on a long straightaway.
Top speed of any properly geared Stock motor is probally around 35 mph.
The MVP may be a very good motor, but from what I read you need to do alot of "Tuning" to get it there. "Unknown" is a novice and a a P2K may be a btter choice for right now.
Really I would race a few more times with the kit 19 turn and get to know the car a little better.
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Old 11-09-2002, 10:08 AM   #24
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I wish I could race a little more with the 19 turn...but the stupid endbell came seperated from the can. And I don't know how to connect them back together because there are no screws. There are just these little tabs. But the tabs are like gone. I don't know. I have the motor out right now. I am going to try to fix it. If I can....I guess its time for the P2K2!
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Old 11-09-2002, 10:57 AM   #25
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Default Seperated endbell

How did the endbell seperate from the can? Did it melt off or from a bad crash?
If it's just loose, try restaking the tabs with a punch or even a blunted nail.

Last edited by popsracer; 11-09-2002 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-09-2002, 11:07 AM   #26
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Default Ball bearing "Stock" motor

Nobody ever answered my question about using bearings in a "Stock" motor.
Can you just replace the bushings with bearings or does it take a special can and endbell? AND, would bearings really make any noticable difference over bushings?

Thanks,
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Old 11-09-2002, 11:09 AM   #27
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Most likley it is from crashing. I hit a couple walls (since it was my first time). But nothing too hard (no full throttle head on collisions). I have no idea what the problem is.
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Old 11-09-2002, 11:47 AM   #28
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Default Endbell problems

If you stay serious about racing. The next item on your list after a 27t "Stock" motor, should be a Digital servo for the steering. Really makes a difference in how easy the car drives. Get a Hitec
#9625 servo. Not too fast, and better centering than the kit servo. The price is good too. (about $60)
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Old 11-09-2002, 12:06 PM   #29
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Thanks for the suggestion. The absolute next thing I am going to buy is one more battery pack. Then I am going to pick up the P2K2 Pro motor. Then the sway bars. Then the digital servo. After that...I will eventually swap out the whole chassis with graphite and get the cooling fins for the motor.
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Old 11-09-2002, 01:15 PM   #30
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Whoah---- wait a minute slugger, before you go and get all that graphite stuff you need to worry about controlling your car, REMEMBER... Graphite is stiffer, lighter and breaks a whole lot easier!! Upgrades like a good FM radio, the before mentioned servo and a good racing speedo will improve your lap time much faster than any graphite do-hickie and the aluminum heatsink is a waste of money.......
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