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Old 12-23-2005, 11:57 PM   #16
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maybe you could look to your batterys?? maybe the motor is just a turd? i have had motors that ran great for a while..but then they just started sucking ..no matter what brushes or whatever.....is your car slow because people are driving right around you ??? or just cause your laps arent as good as other guys?
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Old 12-24-2005, 12:22 AM   #17
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I am the 3rd fastest guy on the track, the 2 people ahead of me have like dynos and crap, work at hobbytown and stuff, so they might have the edge on the motors but its weierd, i put a 21 pinion on, went slower, put the 19 pinion back on and ti screamed pretty good, i just wanna go faster lol
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Old 12-24-2005, 12:39 AM   #18
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Narrow your brushes.

Measure the comm diameter, and multiply it by .51.

Then either narrow your brushes eaqually, like .020 off each side, or time the brushes advanced, by narrowing only one side, and placing the side that you didn't shave off on the right side of the brush hood. That advances the timing. So, your motor will have a bit more RPM, but you also gain torque by having a narrower brush face.

I did this and geared up about 2-3 teeth and it was screaming fast.
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Old 12-24-2005, 12:58 AM   #19
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u should listen to what Brian McGreevy has to say..he isnt a slow guy ya know

personally i would change the brushes because im not a 767 fan as much as i used to be...and gear it to where Brian said


is it possible you dont carry corner speed with the setup your running on your car?
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:19 AM   #20
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Once you get the motor going then you have to change the set up to be able to carry the speed,which might be your problem.Have one of the fast guys try the motor and if they say it's fast then you will know it's your set up.There's a lot more to going fast than just a good motor,a LOT more.
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Old 12-30-2005, 01:14 AM   #21
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i put a 22 on it tonight and it went fast! gunna try a 23 next week, will make a video of it, cause im super board!
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Old 12-30-2005, 03:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
I am the 3rd fastest guy on the track, the 2 people ahead of me have like dynos and crap, work at hobbytown and stuff, so they might have the edge on the motors but its weierd, i put a 21 pinion on, went slower, put the 19 pinion back on and ti screamed pretty good, i just wanna go faster lol
are they running `roars` like you or have they monster`s ??

also don`t forget your car setup ,if it bog`s down in the corners then there `s no chance
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:08 AM   #23
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I just went back and did the math and looked at what I run. I run monsters and gear around a 25 roll out in my TC4. If you run a epic you should be a tooth or two lower so that would get you around the 23.5-24.0 range for roll out. Try running 4 laps geared 24-75. If the car doesnt feel right pull it off. This way you won't over heat the motor. Epic stockers have a very narrow power band...you have to be dead on to run them. I would also run a red and purple combo with F Brushes or 767's. Do not narrow them. That's only going to give you a slight increase in RPM at the loss of overall power.
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:14 AM   #24
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OK great! im running ran a 22 tooth last night giving me a 22.32 rollout, i could touch the motor for about 3-4 seconds, im gunna run a 23 next week, and try to get my hands on a motor clip on heat sink, and rig up a fan blowing on the endbell/brushs so it allows me to run a 23 or even a 24 without overdoing it
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:16 AM   #25
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The car screamed! down the straight, but seemed alittle doggy, or not quite as fast as others.. i run Fusion 1.175's GP 3300s, but ill have 2 new IB3800 1.215 460 sec 1.8-1.9IR for next week, they should be here today in the mail!

Thinking about ordering up a br00d Epic Roar

*br00d solves all problems! eh Eddieo!!!??*

Anyone know where i can pick up a lil fan that i could mount to some lexan to point at the motor? I cant justify spending $15+ for one from online rc website
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:20 AM   #26
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If you have access to a temp gun you want your motor to be about 140 when you bring it off. Those 3300's need to be dead shorted and used for practice packs. The 38's will make a huge difference as well. keep trying new things.
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:23 AM   #27
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i was told by a few local winners that they run them at 160 range... they said the motor can handle it! but im gunna have to watch my gearing with these new IB3800's, they tend to make a stock motor run hotter then the GP3300's

Posted pics of the track layout!

Barry... Hey, i have the novak smart tray that can deadshort also, what is the procedure on dead shorting then?
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Last edited by BSchorr; 12-30-2005 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:52 AM   #28
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I use the Zero30 tray from Integy. after you are sure that you are at zero volts for each cell, solder a wire from pos to neg lead while still in the tray and thats it. Now remember, you only get the gains of a dead shorted pack on the first run of the day with that pack. So if you run your 3300's more than once in a day you will actually lose punch on your second run. Also watch for false peaking during the first 10 minutes of the charge...If you have a long lockout use it.

I would Dead short all your GP packs but NOT your IB's.
If you have any other questions pop on the Express thread and ask away!
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Old 12-30-2005, 09:38 AM   #29
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Go for the Br00d motor also.. THEY ROCK !!!
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