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Old 12-14-2005, 01:11 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
How long ago did you purchase them and from where? The bad batch was only out there for about 2 months. There were only around 1500 pair sold. Most all of them have been accounted for and replaced by Finish line.

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about a week ago from my hobby/race track. i think i saved them, if you guys want ea/eddie i will send them to you to check out.
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:15 PM   #47
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That motor isn't going to run at 52K RPMS for 4-5 mins guaranteed!
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:16 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
7.2v??? I only hit em at 6v
I hit them at 7.2v because it's the only way to get consistent rpm results from my indi dyno. The voltage is varied with a dial, so it's just easier just to turn the dial until it hits the stop, which is 7.2v, rather then looking for a specific voltage setting each time I want to test rpm's.
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:18 PM   #49
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even my best 12Tmod can't spin 52K rpm, wonder brushes!
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:34 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott S
Did you say 52k RPMs?! On a stock motor??? All of my fast stock motors with putnam brushes only get about 40-42rpm's on my indi dyno1 at 7.2v and I thought that was quick! Will that motor continue to run at 50k+ RPMs for an entire race or at least somewhere in the high 40k rpms? If it does, I think I need to try these brushes!
Yes I did.
But it was only for that one split moment...
As i wrote, I tried it agian and then my Monster was "back to normal".
Looking forward to trying the F-brush i my new Team BrOOd motors, arriving soon - I hope...
But yes, try them. They usually work for me.
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:36 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
about a week ago from my hobby/race track. i think i saved them, if you guys want ea/eddie i will send them to you to check out.
Those could very well have been old stock Ritchie. I know I was kinda wondering about the ones I got recently from Doug that had been sitting behind the counter for a while. However they ran great in my stockers.
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:38 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nielsen
Yes I did.
But it was only for that one split moment...
As i wrote, I tried it agian and then my Monster was "back to normal".
Looking forward to trying the F-brush i my new Team BrOOd motors, arriving soon - I hope...
But yes, try them. They usually work for me.
2 cents....
the brushes probably weren't broken in completely, causing a lot of arching.
with no load on the motor, this will increase rpms and really increase draw.
...at least i think...kinda new here...
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:39 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
what spring combo for F brush when you runthem ??

767`s are good
Hey Mr. Jolly.
I usually run them with purple/purple springs.
Last time I tried with red/red springs.
That was when i whent crazy and took just over 52k RPM. Had run it in for just under 10 min. at 2 volts.
Ran the motor for to batt. Didn't have the same speed secound time but my fastest lap was the same.

Am i using to har springs? Can that be why they are so hard to the comm?
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:40 PM   #54
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Reedy 767's on both sides red trinity spring on + green on - works for us on monsters and epic roar's.
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Old 12-14-2005, 02:07 PM   #55
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It has been my experience that buzzing stock motors up with no load is a bad idea. The stacks on the Monster And Epic motors are so short that there isn't much supporting the windings, and when you buzz the motors way up you risk the windings moving. This then creates an unbalanced arm. Yes, I have checked arms on a balancer and this does happen. The motors don't see that kind of RPM on the track so I don't see the purpose. I think a 5.0 volt reading works well enough if you know what a good rpm is at 5.0 volts.
This is one reason I can't wait to see the new Monster arm. I believe the added material to the arm is going help support the windings, and maybe keep the stacks from coming apart. My .02
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Old 12-14-2005, 02:30 PM   #56
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You can tell the batches of f brushes apart by amp draw..

the first batch or the worst i saw about 6-8 amps at 2 volts.. they ran good about a minute then fell on there face..they did get better the more i ranthem.. after 10-15 runs they did start to show promise..

batch two has the highest ap draw.. ive found around 10-12 for the first minute of break in dropping to about 9-10 race ready.. 2 amp brak in.

the third batch which is the current ive seen 9-11 amps and settling around 9 race ready.. the batch thre seems to work the best on the track.. it doesnt fall off like the others..

It is also noted.. the best way to break them is is with zubak comm drops.. For some reason these brushes really like these drops.. i havent had as good of luck with other drops.. but the zubak drops do work wonders..

i run 4 cell o the cut i use may be diff from 6 cell.. but i generally take .020 off the trailing edge of the brush, and run a medium sized hole in the face. this has greatly increased performance over a full face. the full face always fell off harder..
als take a comm stick and clean the whole face of the brush.. this gets rid of any loose dirty material that can hinder performance..

i have also stopped using com drop during the race.. only for the break in then clean the motor by motor spraying it while it is running.. do not take the brushes out to clean. you lose the brush seat.. i take the wire off the side of the endbell for the capacitor.. i stick my comm stick in that hole... if you take the brushes out i recomend a full cut, and re clean the face of the brush.. ive tried re serrating, but i feel with the serrations gone the seat is better.. not using the drops during the race i feel the motor runs stronger and finishes more consistent.
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Old 12-14-2005, 02:56 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burbs
You can tell the batches of f brushes apart by amp draw..

the first batch or the worst i saw about 6-8 amps at 2 volts.. they ran good about a minute then fell on there face..they did get better the more i ranthem.. after 10-15 runs they did start to show promise..

batch two has the highest ap draw.. ive found around 10-12 for the first minute of break in dropping to about 9-10 race ready.. 2 amp brak in.

the third batch which is the current ive seen 9-11 amps and settling around 9 race ready.. the batch thre seems to work the best on the track.. it doesnt fall off like the others..

It is also noted.. the best way to break them is is with zubak comm drops.. For some reason these brushes really like these drops.. i havent had as good of luck with other drops.. but the zubak drops do work wonders..

i run 4 cell o the cut i use may be diff from 6 cell.. but i generally take .020 off the trailing edge of the brush, and run a medium sized hole in the face. this has greatly increased performance over a full face. the full face always fell off harder..
als take a comm stick and clean the whole face of the brush.. this gets rid of any loose dirty material that can hinder performance..

i have also stopped using com drop during the race.. only for the break in then clean the motor by motor spraying it while it is running.. do not take the brushes out to clean. you lose the brush seat.. i take the wire off the side of the endbell for the capacitor.. i stick my comm stick in that hole... if you take the brushes out i recomend a full cut, and re clean the face of the brush.. ive tried re serrating, but i feel with the serrations gone the seat is better.. not using the drops during the race i feel the motor runs stronger and finishes more consistent.

Burbs,

Batch 3 that you are referring to is a 4 cell only batch. That was the ones we had problems out of in 6 cell. So he stopped selling them for 6 cell applications and they are only to be used in 4 cell's. That is what everyone refers to as the "bad batch". For 6 cells FL has went back to the original 2nd version. Once he uses up what is left of the 3rd version that will be it...He is not having them made anymore.

The ampdraw on some of the stuff I was building today was 12-15 amps at 2 volts with a fan and settles down to around 10-11amps. A little high for 6 cell but they run well and dont fall off.

Your explanation for the SPEEDJUICE is perfect. Its what I have found as well except we race with it in On road. I havent seen a drop off in performance on the track. It just runs like a bat out of hell for the first 3-4 laps and then runs the same or a little better than dry....Ive done tons of back to back runs to see. But again this is with 6 cells and not 4.

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Old 12-14-2005, 03:04 PM   #58
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ahh yeah see the first batch is what the 4 cell guys seem to call the bad batch.. some guy's got them to run and some didnt.. i gave you some battery bars at a race in new caslte iniana once, and i asked you to build me a motor in trade.. i still wasnt impressed with them.. i got some of the batch 3 from a guy who runs for finishline and love them now.. i only had a few pairs of the second batch so i didnt get as much time on them as i maybe should have..
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Old 12-14-2005, 03:04 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nielsen
Hey Mr. Jolly.
I usually run them with purple/purple springs.
Last time I tried with red/red springs.
That was when i whent crazy and took just over 52k RPM. Had run it in for just under 10 min. at 2 volts.
Ran the motor for to batt. Didn't have the same speed secound time but my fastest lap was the same.

Am i using to har springs? Can that be why they are so hard to the comm?
re F-lines
forget about the dyno for now
green - red + full face
break in @ 2 volt 30secs (if you have speed juice then even better )
then bung on track then race
don`t take them out after 1 race keep them in fopr race 2-3 (it will be faster)

i have found F-lines work really well without heavy spring load
if you need a bit more torque then up the spring load to red- purple +

more top speed less spring load
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Old 12-14-2005, 03:12 PM   #60
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forgot
USA guy`s love the heavy spring load on there stocks ie;purple/purple
but in the uk
if your car is setup so it carries a `LOT` of corner speed then you can get away with purple/purple ,but if your a point & squirt merchant ? then forget it ,motor be so hot after 5 min it would glow

we run softer setup`s really

heavy springs = more friction,more torque,less top speed ,more heat
lighter springs= less torque,less heat ,less friction,more top speed

1/12th cars love green/green spring setup (no need for pulling power ,cars weigh as much as a box of matche`s)

1/10th little different
if you run lighter springs then bed the brushe`s in @2-3 volt 1 minute
to get the brush bed in with out causing brush bounce (bad thing) when you go onto track

also bumby track with light springs does not mix either
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