RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

Setups for a TT-01 against a 416?

James Bond had some nice setups:
1) Oil slick sprayers behind the car,
2) Blades on the wheels,
3) Maybe a small caliber canon.

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

This applies to Scott's question also.
It's in the order that I feel is the most important.

1. Carbon Fibre stiffener.
2. TRF shocks.
3. Tamiya aluminium ball bearing steering
I have both the 3 Racing and the Tamiya - Get the Tamiya - less slop.
4. TT-01D B parts
The lower arms have additional shock mounting points.
Most importantly they allow for adjustment of droop.
5. Universals all around. You can't adjust the droop screws without them.
Without the droop adjustment, you will spin out turning under breaks.
6. 3 Racing carbon fibre shock tower stiffeners.
7. Adjustable upper arms and steering tie rods
Also replace the link from servo with a tie rod.
8. Ball diffs.
9. Stabilisers.
10. Toe in rears.

You can also:
Replace all the shit kit screws with Titanium and aluminium.
3 Racing front knuckles - front knuckles are the most common breakage.

Somewhere in there if you havent got them, you'll want the aluminium drive shaft (Tamiya), a metal motor mount (3 Racing), and 6mm Hubs (Tamiya, 3 Racing won't fit the Tamiya universals properly). I assume you have bearings.

Stock, the car has no way of controlling front to rear weight shift (other than springs) .. droop droop droop .. did I mention droop .. TT-01D B parts.

I tend to run heavier front springs than the rear (whites and blue from 53440)
Rear droop is almost nil to 2 mm max, front is about 4mm.
The 3 Racing tower stiffeners enable me to stand the front shocks up a little which also helps keep the weight at the rear while decellerating.

Forget any of the aluminium arms, there are none that give the droop setting, that I have seen. Also none that allow for camber, that I have seen.

You will probably get frustrated with the split balls in the front suspension compressing and wearing. I am trying a set of Square-RC flourine coated balls, they are a little loose to begin with but don't compress further.

I also advise judicious use of shims in the hingepins.

Finally I haven't tried them but have ordered a set of 3 Racing front arms which provide for castor adjustment. I intend to use the uppers only, as I feel the droop adjustment of the TT-01D parts is essntial.

I also like the look of the TT-01 Gear box housings with 3 Racing Carbon fibre shock towers .. haven't tried tho.

To summarise:
It's way to flexible, stiffen it.
It has plastic shocks, replace them.
The plastic steering is crap, replace it.
The car desperately needs droop or downstops, whatever you want to call it. Only the D and R come with the arms that allow it, but neither has it fitted.

Kevin

scottwhat12

iTrader: (4)

hey kevin . wow thanks for all of the info , you have given me heaps of info and some good tips . im on a bit of a budget so first im gonna start off getting the carbon upper frame because my chassis does seem very flexy and ill get the steering set and tierods so i can get rid of this bloody sterring slop lol . ill have to wait over time to get all of the things you have mentioned but your very helpfull.

thanks kevin! a+ info

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

Scott,

With a brushless get this part very early on:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df0...th=595_744_712

If you haven't worn out a plastic part yet, you will.

Kevin

Knights Cross

iTrader: (5)

KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

thanks kevin, btw which spur n pinion did you use for brushless 11.5 speedpassion?

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

I really cannot recommend a gear ratio for an 11.5 as I don't have one. I still race brushed

I would start with the recommended FDR, which I believe Speed Passions give. That shouldn't cook it. Then tune for the track.

The rule of thumb I use is, I aim to hit maximum rpm just before the end of the longest straight. Just watch the temperature, and tune for lap times.

There is no point having the car geared for a top speed that you never get space to reach. On some tracks you might want to hit max speed half way down the straight and just hold it, knowing that you need acceleration for a series short straights linked with tight turns.

I know it's not the answer, but I hope it helps.

Kevin

Knights Cross

iTrader: (5)

i run 6.8 ratio on a 9.5T SP brushless...superb! crazy speed!! its so fast that the car would roll / flip if you enter corner too fast... Guess it's something to do with my car not havin any droops and original track width (175mm) Overall it was fun!

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

Yeah our TT-01's rolled badly the first week we raced them .. they were stock.
Treaded Tyres on carpet
An 80g left-2-right weight imbalance

But yes still a load of fun.

Kevin

rexvirtue

iTrader: (1)

i usually drive rally, so flipping happens a lot, especially with increased ride height raising the centre of gravity. the trick is to have enough weight and momentum that it just keeps flipping and lands on its wheels again. hard to predict. to run brushless i'd want to put some wheels on the roof, otherwise id just be chasing and righting it all the time.

Knights Cross

iTrader: (5)

Where do u put this part? Will i need this if I'm using ball diff and UJ?

raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

Actually, all you need is some practice. Keep the car moving. Exit speed is the key.

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

I have been able to make a spur gear adapter for the TT01, Now I just need to know if anyone has an idea of combonations that will work for 64 pitch gears. trying to get fdr's to be able to use a 21.5 in T/A.

KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

Hi,

Does the TB-02 spur gear same like the TT-01? they look the same , only the part number is different. Any of you tried ?

Larry show us some picture of your spur adapter

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

It replaces the plastic ring that holds the spur gear in place.
Tamiya call it the spur gear stopper. Part number GB2 in the D Manual.

They wear away, and then the spur slops front to rear, and that wears away the tub.

Kevin