brrrrm

What motor were you running it with? I have not yet raced my 30Tx52T & silver can setup, but testing so far resulted in a hot motor, but not charred wires after 3 minutes, which would worry me. Such heat could warp the motor mount.

RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

That's a good point, I was worried about burning up the motor or esc (I have extra's of those) but forgot about the motor mount melting. Even if I upgraded to the metal mount it might still melt the slot it fits into. Was hoping not to run a heat sync since it's yet another piece away from stock, but I'll either do that or try a different motor.

Running the kit Tamiya silver can: 5V, 12.8k rpm, 1.2 amps.

Redko

iTrader: (3)

hi guys,

pardon me for asking.

haven't been following this thread. but am very interested in the 52t spur combination you guys been talking about.

may i know what pinion did you guys use with the 52t spur??

and will 27t pinion fit with the 52t spur??

thank you.

regards

brrrrm

Hey Redko, we're here to help, no need to apologise for asking questions. Yes, the 27T Tamiya pinion should work with the 52T Tamiya spur, but you may have to modify the motor mount to get the right spacing, because it is not one of the preset combinations.

I run a 30T pinion, but on the carbon fibre chassis which has a different motor mount.

Hey RaceBucks, yesterday my 40x65 Kawada gears arrived. They are very good quality and lighter than the Tamiya gears. I started installing it, but had to modify the CF chassis motor mount to fit the much greater spacing between the gears. So it is taking longer than expected. Like your experience, I expect the silver can to heat up significantly. I will run it with 2400 NiCads, maybe the lower power output keeps the heat generation under control. It does mean slower acelleration, but this exercise is about top speed first.

t4m1y4niac

guys...can i get final drive ratio between 5.2 until 5.6 with my standard TT-01 chassis??????

if can, what should i get or buy??

RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

Look back at post #735 in this thread.

raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

Postman dropped off the gears! I will drop them in and run it Saturday night.

Redko

iTrader: (3)

hi brrrrm,

thanks for the help.

one more question.

does tamiya have the 30T pinion or izzit from 3rd party products?? if so, which is the better brand to get from??

thanks ..

regards.

brrrrm

Hey Redko,
I got the 30T at my LHS. It was not a Tamiya one. See post 735 for pinion options.

Today I tested my 40x65 (48 pitch) setup using the HPI spur gear adapter (see post 779) and silver can. This is a FDR of 4.23. The car simply flies on the straights and there is still enough torque to spin the rear wheels in corners, so acelleration should not be a problem in a race, but only the real race will tell. What pleased me most is that the motor temp was not too bad. Too hot to touch, but no charring. After 10 minutes in a cool breeze the motor was ready for another run. Some pics below.

oME

[QUOTE=RaceBucks;4199713]52T Spur update:

Made 2 mods to the 52T to make it work, but I think it needs 3:
1) From oME's picture from a couple weeks ago the yellow area needs to be sanded down so that it doesn't rub. Sand so that it is flush with the rim of the spur gear or below.
2) Also, the outside diameter of the shaft in the red area needs to be thinned (not shortened, but thinned) to prevent it's rubbing.
3) Something needs to fill the gap between the 6mm ID of the 52T spur and the 5mm drive shaft. I didn't run anything today and it worked, but as a guy at the track pointed out, as soon as you get hit that pin will pop out and that will end your race. I liked brrrrm's idea of glueing in a 6mm spacer and drilling it out to 5mm. Will probably do that this week.
QUOTE]


BUCKS

Is number 3 worth it? NOT running the race after all it is very inevitable for a car not to be hit in a race even in the worlds this is an issue.

Comment on number 1- How much sanding is needed? What sand paper to be used? Will the sanding be a trial and error thing?

Comment on number 2- in the red area that I have posted it will be quite hard to measure the circumference of the part to be sanded simply because it is not flat. How can we make sure that the part of the spur won't be oblong or something after sanding.

WHAT is the acceptable motor heat temperature for the motor not to be ruined??? Too much heat will spoil the magnets.

I hope we can get thru this concerns thanks for the R&D.

brrrrm

oME,
I decided to eliminate the 1 mm gap, otherwise the spur gear wobbles on the drive shaft. 1 mm is about the depth of the teeth and as the gear wobbles, the teeth will mesh erratically and in the worst case you may strip them. It was not much of an effort to fit a spacer and drill it out. I can't comment on the sanding, because I fitted it on the CF chassis and no sanding was required. As far as the motor temp is concerned, if the cables are charred, that is TOO hot. I consistently run it too hot to touch, but cool it down in between. Usually that takes less than 10 minutes to become luke warm.

RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure if it is worth it as well. I had a tool that let me do this without much complication, but this isn't the easiest mod.

I sanded the spur with a bench belt sander, I just held the gear and slowly rotated it to thin the OD wall and flatten the protruding back face. This wouldn't have been easy without belt sander. Couldn't really do it well by hand. Some trial and error on thinning the wall, mine doesn't look pretty, it's just thin enough to not rub. Just use medium or fine sandpaper, probably anything above grit 100.

I cut a thin strip of electrical tape and wrapped the shaft to fill the gap (I preferred brrrm's spacer method but I don't have a spacer handy so I tried the tape). Since the stock white ring secures the pin on one side and the tape fills the gap snuggly on the other the spur doesn't wobble and I hope isn't vulnerable to a hit. I trimmed with an exacto any overflow tape. It feels secure and the drive train is still free spinning.

Heat is still a concern.

Anyway, for the large Aliso Viejo track I'm going to try the 52T spur; if it breaks I'll go to the 55T. Hopefully it will survive the main, and hopefully 3 mains!

Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

brrrrm - very trick chassis you have there mate. what brand is the front stiffner that attatches to your steering arms & the carbon shock tower bars are meant to be fitted on after the shocks to further stiffen the shock mounts...

Awesome chassis, & the gearing looks very trick, cant wait to get my adaptor & gears & try it on my tub chassis...

brrrrm

Drift Demon - thanks for the compliments. The carbon stiffeners are from Square-RC. A Japanese company. I got the parts through RcMart, but they don't have them in stock now. They fit the bath tub chassis too, that is where I used them before I got the CF chassis. The shock tower stiffeners protect the original shock towers. In racing I get too close on the inside curve and occasionally clip the safety barrier. This gives a tremendous jolt to the suspension and the original plastic shock towers could not handle it. The chassis stiffener at the front makes the car more predictable and also takes away steering slop. There is also a rear end stiffener, but I don't need it for the CF chassis as the metal motor mount provides enough stiffness already.

CLK@racing

iTrader: (1)

Guys,

How can I increase the torque in my silver can motor?

Thanks in advance for the tips.