TT-01 Forum
#2521
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
There are plenty of good videos that show and threads on rctech that describe how to glue the OUTSIDE sidewall and/or treads of rubber tires to help prevent traction rolling. I would advise to search for that information.
However in answer to your question for a TT-01, I like to apply the "super glue" to the tip of a "q-tip". I then use the q-tip to apply the glue directly where I need on the tire. I always approach gluing the outside of a tire with the mindset that less is more. Just add enough until you reach the amount of traction you are aiming for. If you add too much, I would keep some super glue debonder/remover handy.
As far as where to apply the glue, make sure you check the local class rules first. Some classes/tracks do no allow you to apply glue to the actual tread of the tire. If that is not a rule, I usually just apply a thin bead of glue where the sidewall meets the tread of the tire. Sometime I might even put glue on the entire outside tread of treaded tires. Some people like to glue the entire side wall of tires as well. It really depends on the tires being used.
Another tuning option is to upgrade the TT-01 kit to adjust upper links on the front and rear. Those parts came on the TT-01e type R kits.
However in answer to your question for a TT-01, I like to apply the "super glue" to the tip of a "q-tip". I then use the q-tip to apply the glue directly where I need on the tire. I always approach gluing the outside of a tire with the mindset that less is more. Just add enough until you reach the amount of traction you are aiming for. If you add too much, I would keep some super glue debonder/remover handy.
As far as where to apply the glue, make sure you check the local class rules first. Some classes/tracks do no allow you to apply glue to the actual tread of the tire. If that is not a rule, I usually just apply a thin bead of glue where the sidewall meets the tread of the tire. Sometime I might even put glue on the entire outside tread of treaded tires. Some people like to glue the entire side wall of tires as well. It really depends on the tires being used.
Another tuning option is to upgrade the TT-01 kit to adjust upper links on the front and rear. Those parts came on the TT-01e type R kits.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 08-07-2017 at 03:57 PM.
#2522
Tech Rookie
So I just got back into RC Touring, and things have changed quite a lot. I come from the NiCd age. I got a couple of cars from a friend which included the TT01R, M03 and M05.
So my question is:
The TT01 diff at the rear feels very crunchy. It seems like it hooks or sticks when it turns.
The front diff is smooth as silk.
What do I need to do to fix this?
My first thought is to shim the diff as it seems to rub on the casing, but I am not sure.
So my question is:
The TT01 diff at the rear feels very crunchy. It seems like it hooks or sticks when it turns.
The front diff is smooth as silk.
What do I need to do to fix this?
My first thought is to shim the diff as it seems to rub on the casing, but I am not sure.
#2523
Tech Fanatic
So I just got back into RC Touring, and things have changed quite a lot. I come from the NiCd age. I got a couple of cars from a friend which included the TT01R, M03 and M05.
So my question is:
The TT01 diff at the rear feels very crunchy. It seems like it hooks or sticks when it turns.
The front diff is smooth as silk.
What do I need to do to fix this?
My first thought is to shim the diff as it seems to rub on the casing, but I am not sure.
So my question is:
The TT01 diff at the rear feels very crunchy. It seems like it hooks or sticks when it turns.
The front diff is smooth as silk.
What do I need to do to fix this?
My first thought is to shim the diff as it seems to rub on the casing, but I am not sure.
-#1 - Take out the crunchy feel'n differential; and take a look.
#2524
Tech Rookie
I neglected to mention that I did remove it and could not see anything obviously wrong. Sorry.
Thought this might be a common problem that someone might have had before.
Thought this might be a common problem that someone might have had before.
#2525
i have this problem too. Maybe its illegal by TCS standards but I had to gring th gears just a little bit on it's outer edge. Doesn't help much but it's obvious. I speculate the gears don't mesh as properly as machined units would.
#2526
Tech Rookie
I think I will first try and swap the gears between front a rear casings. Maybe the tolerance is different between the components.
If that does not work I will grind the gears down.
#2527
Tech Fanatic
I have an HPI Pro 4 and RS4 Sport 3 and Tamiya TB Evolution 5. If I compare those 3 chassis to the TT-01 chassis; the TT-01 has real rough differentials.
-The front diff on my TT-01 feels rough. The rear diff is less rough.
-But it will somewhat smooth-out after you put some Grease into the differential.
-The front diff on my TT-01 feels rough. The rear diff is less rough.
-But it will somewhat smooth-out after you put some Grease into the differential.
#2528
Anyone have issues with a TT01-e having the servo strain even when neutral? I am running a Savox 1251mg and even when dead center and neutral it sounds like the servo is straining.
I know the directions state that the servo posts go one way with >2mm of clearance and the other way for <2mm of clearance. Maybe the directions are wrong and its causing binding of the steering link?
I know the directions state that the servo posts go one way with >2mm of clearance and the other way for <2mm of clearance. Maybe the directions are wrong and its causing binding of the steering link?
#2530
If i pull the two screws for the servo mounts and let the servo pop up a bit the straining goes away. I would assume its the position of the servo itself when fully tightened and that there is a portion of the rack that is binding(doesnt feel like it) when the servo is secured down.
I guess ill run it and see. The steering doesnt bind at all when the linkage is pulled from the servo saver so i know it isn't tightened down too much. Servo is brand new and functions properly.
#2531
Tech Fanatic
TT-01 vs RS4 Sport 3 (March 24th 2019)
Tamiya TT-01 - - - - - lap-time: 33.29
electronics
-ESC: Futaba MC 330CR
-battery: Duratrax 3600mah Ni-MH
-servo: Futaba BLS 451
-motor: Peak Dynasty (19t)
-body: Tamiya (Nissan R390)
(gearing: pinion - 22 - - - - - spur - 58)
HPI RS4 Sport 3 - - - - - lap-time: 34.03
electronics
-ESC: Hobbywing Xerun 120A, V3.1
-battery: HPI Plasma 2000mah Ni-MH
servo: Futaba 9451
motor: Reedy Sonic M3 10.5
body: Tamiya (Nissan GTR)
(gearing: pinion - 45 - - - - - spur - 100)
same tires on both chassis
(I was running both chassis)
(I recognized the RS4 Sport 3 needs a slight set-up change.
I will run both chassis in the challenge again soon.)
electronics
-ESC: Futaba MC 330CR
-battery: Duratrax 3600mah Ni-MH
-servo: Futaba BLS 451
-motor: Peak Dynasty (19t)
-body: Tamiya (Nissan R390)
(gearing: pinion - 22 - - - - - spur - 58)
HPI RS4 Sport 3 - - - - - lap-time: 34.03
electronics
-ESC: Hobbywing Xerun 120A, V3.1
-battery: HPI Plasma 2000mah Ni-MH
servo: Futaba 9451
motor: Reedy Sonic M3 10.5
body: Tamiya (Nissan GTR)
(gearing: pinion - 45 - - - - - spur - 100)
same tires on both chassis
(I was running both chassis)
(I recognized the RS4 Sport 3 needs a slight set-up change.
I will run both chassis in the challenge again soon.)
#2532
Tech Initiate
local track had some euro trucks racing around. this seriously looks fun.
#2533
Tech Adept
Caster angle?
Does anybody know the kit caster angle for a TT01E? I know the TT02 is 2-3 degrees but not sure about the TT01E. Eyeballing it with a protractor it looks like about 4-5 degrees but I’d like to be sure.
#2534
[QUOTE=kevinatfms;15109364]I have had about 50 Savox servos and this is the only one that while centered sounds like its straining. All settings in the DX4C are at neutral so its not off center in the remote. The servo horn is centered also and doesnt seem to be out of alignment.
If i pull the two screws for the servo mounts and let the servo pop up a bit the straining goes away. I would assume its the position of the servo itself when fully tightened and that there is a portion of the rack that is binding(doesnt feel like it) when the servo is secured down.
I guess ill run it and see. The steering doesnt bind at all when the linkage is pulled from the servo saver so i know it isn't tightened down too much. Servo is brand new and functions properly.[/QUOTE
I had a similar issue with my semi and a Savox servo. The problem I found was the link from steering plate to servo horn was binding due to misalignment. I ended up loosening the shoulder screw to free it up. I switched to a ball end link. If they have a problem at the track, I just pull it from the race. Sucks, but I could not make it work and be Box Stock legal. smh
If i pull the two screws for the servo mounts and let the servo pop up a bit the straining goes away. I would assume its the position of the servo itself when fully tightened and that there is a portion of the rack that is binding(doesnt feel like it) when the servo is secured down.
I guess ill run it and see. The steering doesnt bind at all when the linkage is pulled from the servo saver so i know it isn't tightened down too much. Servo is brand new and functions properly.[/QUOTE
I had a similar issue with my semi and a Savox servo. The problem I found was the link from steering plate to servo horn was binding due to misalignment. I ended up loosening the shoulder screw to free it up. I switched to a ball end link. If they have a problem at the track, I just pull it from the race. Sucks, but I could not make it work and be Box Stock legal. smh
#2535
Tech Fanatic