TT-01 Forum

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  • Thanks for the info.

    I am racing. 5 minute races.
  • You'll be fine.

    I've seen one of mine come off at close to 200 degrees and I think "did I just cook that motor?" but the next time out it runs fine. Still, try to keep it under 160.

    Put a fan on it. One of the good 10g of thrust ones. R1 Works has one as does Yeah Racing (Tornado).

    When I come off the track, I'll start to recharge the battery, but I'll hook up another battery to the ESC and leave it on so the fan continues to run. Those good fans really do blow.
  • Agreed you'll be fine
    Like I said keep it clean and lubed and adding a heat sink and fan on it
    would be a nice touch also
    But I run mine without and haven't had any issues
    Good Luck
  • Tamiya TT01 Carbon Fiber & Blue Alloy
    OK, I know I've fallen into the "TT01 Trap" of spending more on one than the finest chassis made, but it's been fun, besides, I adore my 12 y.o. son After we already spent too much and the installation of a 9.5T motor we had this :

    Then we acquired a Carbon Fiber conversion

    Installed steel geared black Diff. with heavy duty SS Screws

    Next was a Carbon Fiber drive shaft & a TT02 high speed gear set w/ adapter to allow us the use of almost any FDR.

    Then we swapped out the 9.5T motor for a 5.5T motor and run a FDR of 7.5 : 1

    Oh Yeah ! just have to do the electrics now.

  • You say you are using the TT02 high speed gear adapter set 54500. Do you (or anyone else) know if that TT02 high speed gear adapter set fits an unmodified TT01 and how low FDR is available with 64p gears? I'm trying to gear for 17.5 blinky, USGT (21.5) or VTA (25.5).
  • Tamiya TT01 Carbon Fiber & Alloy
    Well, I never tried it with the stock diff covers but I expect that it should fit. It fit perfectly in this iteration. Exactly like it was made for it. The benefit also being that I don't have to use Tamiya spur and pinion gear any longer. I cound use most true 48p or 64p spur gears and matching pinions.You may run into issues with the large diameter of the included spur gear clearing an upper deck ( if you have one ) but your free to use almost any spur gear for clearance sake. Well worth the minimal investment, even if you have to dremel a bit, but I don't think you'll have to

  • Hi,

    I race my tt-01 in the Dutch Tamiya Cup. I still suck at it but I thoroughly enjoy it anyway. I do make an effort to optimize my car. In the past week I took it apart and rebuilt it to loose weight. It had become a bit of a parts stack... Everything on there is Tamiys produced, except for the servo, lipo, motor cooler and Tx, of course. Motors in the class are Carcon Cup Machine handouts. I have one, too, for practice:

    This is the chassis as it stands, now:



    Now I am looking for more ways to loose weight, other tips are of course welcome too. I do not consider dropping 100 bucks on special screws to loose 10 grams, but would a light weight body make a big difference, for instance?


  • Any special reason why your using the fan on the motor?
    What sort of time frame do you run your car?
    If you race in 5-9 minute races, you can drop the fan and keep the heat sink that should drop your 10g of weight your looking to loose
  • Thanks for your input. I have the fan on the motor since this year's Deventer (city in the Netherlands) race. Many people cooked their motor, and many TEU105 BK ESCs bit the dust. I use the old 101 ESC (no BEC, high voltage electronics direct on 2S) and it survives everything. Also my motor is cool. On some tracks you are probably right, but this set-up is bullit proof and I like that safety.


  • @bigfatslob - Your car looks amazing, drool factor! Well done. How is the handling after with all those parts?

    I bought a TT-01E recently and did the neccessary upgrade, bearings, alu shaft, shocks and adj steering arms, not far off pase but battles with the steering into corners, the car runs very wide.

    I have the red tamiya springs infront, yellow at the back, anti-wear grease in the front diff, waiting for my order of 500000 silicone oil. I thought of changing the rear springs to the blue ones and maybe remove the top plate to give it more flex. Any suggestions?
  • Usually you will want the softer springs in the rear.
  • Dont a softer back take steering away? Our local track is asphalt, medium grip, some guys suggested to make the back stiffer and this will increase the steering.

    What body is best to use for the TT-01?
  • I run my 50746 dampers with 2 holes in the front, 3 in the rear, standard oil.
    I ran with blue springs in the front and yellow in the rear when my car was 1.500 grams
    I run with yellow springs in the front and red in the rear now my car is 1.300 grams
    The car is understeered, but that might have to do with the fact that I keep pushing too hard into the corners, and my steering EPA should be reduced to the circuit's needs...

    We run on asphalt with 51023 tires, no heating or adhesives.

    The best bodies I know are the old Honda NSX, no longer available, the EBBRO (sold out mostly) and the Audi R8 LMS. I have the latter in light weight version but I have yet to drive it. It was advised in the Dutch Tamiya Top Stock class.


  • I'm using white springs in front and blue in the rear. Car turns in great, though oversteers on power.

    Running an old four slot silver can. Used a gps to clock it at 25mph when running 55/26 gearing with a 25c 2s lipo. Upped the gearing to 55/28, and unfortunately still got 25mph. I'd try the 27t pinion, but it's happily doing its service in my FF01 right now...
  • What does your car weigh ready-to-race?

    I do 43 km/hr / 27mph on a Cup Machine with 25/55, the max allowed in the Cup.


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