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Old 10-17-2010, 02:57 PM
  #1906  
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Default Aluminum body posts

Hi I am new here. I just did a full aluminum re-build on a 3Racing FRP chassis. I was wondering where I can find aluminum body posts or body post upgrades of any kind. I have gotten all my upgrades through e-bay and I have yet to see anything for body posts.

Also I seem to be having a hard time finding aluminum steering arms, the ones that connect the steering assembly to the front wheel knuckles. if that makes sense. I will post pics soon to show what I mean. <- spiderman?
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:43 AM
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Default My First Body

HPI 190mm Porsche 911 Turbo, HPI wheels and tires. Mamba 5700kv Package and Tactic 2.4ghz..



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Old 11-23-2010, 06:03 PM
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Thoughts? anyone?
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Arctic Fire View Post
Thoughts? anyone?
Decrease ride height? Or lower the body?
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:20 PM
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Hi,

Im bored with high end kits so Im going back to TT01 platform and
start off with a TT01E Type D or the Type R.

I had 2 TT01s before but got disappointed with its front suspension
so I sold them. Now I want to go back and really focus on getting
the best performance out of it.

My problem is the suspension system. Will it be possible to use other
suspension parts from other kit? I just want to have a C-Hub style front.

I accidentally saw a TT01 with a modern suspension arms, steering blocks
and uprights and camber links but forgot where in this forum.

Has anyone done this? Will it have the same wheelbase and track width?
And what specific parts do I need?

Thanks
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Arctic Fire View Post
HPI 190mm Porsche 911 Turbo, HPI wheels and tires. Mamba 5700kv Package and Tactic 2.4ghz..



Looks great. I noticed you couldn't get those front headlight stickers to lay down either. I've had two of those bodys and I could not get rid of those wrinkles, oh well. So you have a Brushless system in it? I'm using the stock Tamiya ESC with the "sport tuned" motor. I'd like to get a very mild brushless system for it eventually. My TT-01 has the BMW Schwitzer body on it. I picked it up for $70 from someone on Ebay. How does your car hold up to all that power? Is it hard on the diffs?
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:11 AM
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Stupid headlight stickers.. I am going to get a tamiya VIP 911 shell, with the real headlights and paint it the same. So far it's holding up great under the 5700, no problems. the plastic driveshaft shakes and shudders a bit, which i am sure will wear something out, but as far as the power i think it's perfect.

The Mamba system is so versitile, i have programed the punch control to high, timing to low, and a couple of other tweaks. I also am able to program the throttle end point and dial the whole system down to 3/4 power, which is just amazing. Can't do that with any other systems,

We'll see what's first to break, but i am not replacing anything until it breaks, kind of testing the chassis. Right now i run on either 5000mah 2s Lipo or a little tiny, super light weight 1800mah 2s. I have also set up two cooling fans, onr on the ESC and one to move air around the motor. Since it's so cold right now where i am, it's difficult to tell if heat is going to be a problem.

So far so good!
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:36 AM
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Hey new to the tamiya world with my first tt01. Its weird building a kit in 2 hours and have it driving too...
I am so used to spending all nighters and all day to build a kit.
Well anyway I am using the 540 silvercan that came with it but using my tekin rs pro with futaba 4pk and a 1007 orion servo. Plus a lrp 5900 50c lipo to push it along...
Should be interesting as its all sloppy and no adjustment can be made on anything so haha look out.
Going from a dialed 17.5 in a tc6 to a tt01 with a silvercan should be slower and who knows how easier to drive lol
Let you know how I go tomorrow night
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:59 PM
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Default Track Width

Has anyone tried the long wheel axles and oversized wheel hubs or expeimented with track width? How does it affect handling?
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Prohibited014 View Post
Hi I am new here. I just did a full aluminum re-build on a 3Racing FRP chassis. I was wondering where I can find aluminum body posts or body post upgrades of any kind. I have gotten all my upgrades through e-bay and I have yet to see anything for body posts.

Also I seem to be having a hard time finding aluminum steering arms, the ones that connect the steering assembly to the front wheel knuckles. if that makes sense. I will post pics soon to show what I mean. <- spiderman?
Do a search for 50 or 55 or even 60mm body posts you will find some made by 3racing or integy.
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Old 12-08-2010, 01:04 AM
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Any one else running a Mamba Max + 5700 combo out there?
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:48 PM
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Latest body for my TT-01. It runs 2s Lipo and 3000kv for now but I'd like to step up the motor soon. I let friends drive it when they come over. I drive my TA05

Tamiya Metallic Gray with Tamiya Flat clear.








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Old 12-30-2010, 09:38 AM
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Ok here's one for you guys|

I run ball studs on my front uprights for steering and I keep breaking those dam plastic uprights where the stud goes, so is there a solution to that besides aluminium ones,because it's not TCS legal 'cause Tamiya dont make some!

Thanks
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Starteur View Post
Ok here's one for you guys|

I run ball studs on my front uprights for steering and I keep breaking those dam plastic uprights where the stud goes, so is there a solution to that besides aluminium ones,because it's not TCS legal 'cause Tamiya dont make some!

Thanks
Me too. I have gone through about 6-8 of them. I am trying the ones from the TT01E. They seem to be reinforced some. I hope to have them installed for a race series starting on Jan. 8. I'll let you know if they help.

Of course, the real solution is to not hit stuff
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:03 PM
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I am running a TT01 Type E with thw reinforced uprights.

I am trying ball studs with longer threads, I think that is the problem.
The ones I just installed, the threads portion is flush with the bottom of the uprights, so the upright is filled with the threaded portion of the ballstud. Because regular ball studs, the threads portion is only halfway into the upright, then when you hit the board it applies a lot of pressure on the ball stud and the weaker link is the upright so the hole becomes oval and then breaks.

I think I just solved my problem by analyzing it!

I'll let you know, my next race is the 16th of january.

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