R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-25-2002, 11:53 AM   #61
dtm
Tech Champion
 
dtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: HKG
Posts: 7,551
Send a message via ICQ to dtm
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by OSherman
can we get a pic of that....never noticed that on my friends X-Ray...interesting...
The Xray ones are even better because you use a 3mm hex to install and remove, instead of a blade screwdriver.....however those are really quite expensive and the angle of movement is much more limited.......however, I may consider it when the Kawada ones have worn out!!
dtm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 12:09 PM   #62
Tech Adept
 
fomoco90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Belgium
Posts: 167
Default Re: Re: dtm

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
hahaha...... if you "double" that then you will only be "close" to my age!!

Merry Christmas!!

There's no need to be ashamed , I too have reached the "blessed" age of 32 young years. And look at me 6.8 tall, 32 years old, happy with 2 kids(1 boy-get the pic ) and "playing" with cars
I just say there's no need to be afraid, you just have to get old whoua!!!
Same to you
fomoco90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 07:18 PM   #63
Tech Master
 
TRF-Powered's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,003
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
OK, here goes....you can see the slot on the lower shock ball, you use a blade screwdriver to install and remove. All you need is to run a 12x3 setscrew into the A arm leaving about 4mm sticking out.

You can see the profile of the ball on top of the C hub, it has a flat surface so it mounts better than the std ones!
So the car is single belt drive?.... How's the drivetrain compare to other single belt car, like the KXone. or the XXXs???

By the way, DTM, what kinda CA glue do you use to seal the chassis? it's not fogging up the edage of the chassis at all! it looks real nice. Please share the info. Thanks~!
TRF-Powered is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 07:21 PM   #64
Tech Master
 
TRF-Powered's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,003
Default

dtm,

Also, what brand of ti screw are you using??
TRF-Powered is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 07:34 PM   #65
Tech Fanatic
 
rccarracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 926
Default Re: dtm

Quote:
Originally posted by fomoco90
Another thing rose to my mind, r/c just has to be big business and how do guys from 15-16 years(I don't know the ages of all you guys) of age manage to find the money to buy all this not inexpensive stuff??
Well it helps to be employed in a Hobby Shop......

By the way I'm almost 17......
rccarracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 08:36 PM   #66
Tech Elite
 
seaball's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,303
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to seaball
Default

wow, the sigma looks nice. awesome idea on the balls. i hate threading into plastic more than once. i've done the same on my rclab. so far...

design likes

- single belt
- mid motor
- long camberlinks
- diff accessability
- very functional sways (pivot is far from ends) very effective that way

design dislikes

- idler pulley too far back causing excessive bending of belt. drag? like the xxxs, maybe kxone style is a bit more efficient with smaller arclength and dual tensioners fore and aft. not sure though.

that's it.

can't wait to hear how the track testing goes. thanks for the pics dtm. awesome!
seaball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 09:07 PM   #67
dtm
Tech Champion
 
dtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: HKG
Posts: 7,551
Send a message via ICQ to dtm
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by TRF-Powered
So the car is single belt drive?.... How's the drivetrain compare to other single belt car, like the KXone. or the XXXs???

By the way, DTM, what kinda CA glue do you use to seal the chassis? it's not fogging up the edage of the chassis at all! it looks real nice. Please share the info. Thanks~!
The drive train is very smooth but I do not have a Kxone or XXXS to compare.

There is a very easy way to seal up the edges of the carbon- per Xray manual. Use a cotton wool bud, couple of drops of CA onto that and then swipe the edges. You will need quite a few buds (because once the CA hardens its no good) and a VERY well ventilated area.

I'm using Speedmind Ti screws along with Tamiya cup washers.
dtm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 09:09 PM   #68
dtm
Tech Champion
 
dtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: HKG
Posts: 7,551
Send a message via ICQ to dtm
Default Re: Re: dtm

Quote:
Originally posted by rccarracer
Well it helps to be employed in a Hobby Shop......

By the way I'm almost 17......
It would be better to own the shop.....unfortnately this is not the case for me......so I'm just friendly to all the shops I need!
dtm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 10:46 PM   #69
Tech Master
 
TRF-Powered's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,003
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm

There is a very easy way to seal up the edges of the carbon- per Xray manual. Use a cotton wool bud, couple of drops of CA onto that and then swipe the edges. You will need quite a few buds (because once the CA hardens its no good) and a VERY well ventilated area.

Well, I'm using the same method to seal the chassis, but somehow, it gets a little bit foggy around the edage of the chassis. Seems to be the vapor of the CA that's fogging up the chassis. But your chassis is soooo clean!, no fog at all. Did you use the new Tamiya no-fog type CA???
TRF-Powered is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 11:09 PM   #70
Tech Champion
 
Manticore's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Heaven
Posts: 9,999
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by TRF-Powered
Well, I'm using the same method to seal the chassis, but somehow, it gets a little bit foggy around the edage of the chassis. Seems to be the vapor of the CA that's fogging up the chassis. But your chassis is soooo clean!, no fog at all. Did you use the new Tamiya no-fog type CA???
you need to let it dry completely at a well ventilated place.
Manticore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2002, 11:32 PM   #71
dtm
Tech Champion
 
dtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: HKG
Posts: 7,551
Send a message via ICQ to dtm
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by TRF-Powered
Well, I'm using the same method to seal the chassis, but somehow, it gets a little bit foggy around the edage of the chassis. Seems to be the vapor of the CA that's fogging up the chassis. But your chassis is soooo clean!, no fog at all. Did you use the new Tamiya no-fog type CA???
Yes...don't rush it..apply a couple of layers and let it dry completely before going back for more. I use Take Off tire glue this time, but I get the same effect with just about any CA glue before. Whatever you do, don't put it in a bag....this will make it fog up bad.
dtm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2002, 01:22 AM   #72
fai
Regional Moderator
 
fai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 765
Default

DTM: are the shocks air-mixture or diaphragm equipped type?? I think it's hard to see from your pics... I guess they are diagphragm type?! Arm I right? Thanks
fai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2002, 03:10 AM   #73
dtm
Tech Champion
 
dtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: HKG
Posts: 7,551
Send a message via ICQ to dtm
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fai
DTM: are the shocks air-mixture or diaphragm equipped type?? I think it's hard to see from your pics... I guess they are diagphragm type?! Arm I right? Thanks
They are diaphragm type shocks. I'm using both sponge and O-ring to achieve a quick rebound. Even Yokomo are moving away from the air/mixture type...too much of a pain!

Also they can run a single or dual O-ring. Because the original O-rings are the soft clear type I am using sinlge O-ring. If I get some harder Kose O-rings I may change to dual O-rings.
dtm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2002, 08:06 AM   #74
Tech Elite
 
ijnek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: S'pore & M'sia, JB
Posts: 2,510
Send a message via ICQ to ijnek
Default

correct mi if i'm wrong bcos i have not seen the real car yet...
how is the top deck connected to the chassis?...from wat i see in the pic,it seems that on the end and also jus the middle to the motor mount...if tat's the case,is there a lot of chassis flex?
ijnek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2002, 09:17 AM   #75
dtm
Tech Champion
 
dtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: HKG
Posts: 7,551
Send a message via ICQ to dtm
Default

There are 6 stand offs (including the optional 2). 4 screws on each side of the motor mount and 4 screws going into the F/R bulkheads (2 ea). It makes for a Very stiff car!
dtm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New .12 JP prototype ... Sow&Steady Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 11-13-2005 05:12 PM
Losi 4wd prototype + BJ4 prototype at Worlds cartmen34 Electric Off-Road 32 08-24-2005 09:13 PM
New Xray Prototype Tom Electric On-Road 480 02-13-2005 12:26 AM
Bmi Tc4 Prototype Test Car protc3 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 12 01-26-2005 06:02 PM
Designing A Prototype Car RACER XXX Electric On-Road 100 02-24-2004 01:50 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:46 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net