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Old 11-05-2002, 09:37 AM   #16
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I was thinking that, but I think the black will make the yellow look darker in the places that it covers. I think I am just going to have someone professional do my A4. I want it to look sweet....not poopy like my current one does.
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Old 11-05-2002, 09:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by unknown
I was thinking that, but I think the black will make the yellow look darker in the places that it covers. I think I am just going to have someone professional do my A4. I want it to look sweet....not poopy like my current one does.
Get BigDogGraphics to pain it for you. He does great work and is reasonably priced
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Old 11-05-2002, 12:05 PM   #18
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I e-mailed him to see how much they would charge me and if they have the body that I want in stock.
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Old 11-05-2002, 12:37 PM   #19
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No I don't keep Audis in stock. They aren't very popular, but my LHS has them and if they're out I can get it in less than a week.

However, I'm at least 2 weeks behind on painting. For more specifics I'll reply to your email tonight or tomorrow.

BTW, I can do window tint using something other than black enamel that really looks like tint. I can even tint everything except the windshield so it looks realistic.
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Old 11-05-2002, 01:17 PM   #20
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WOW, thanks for posting. All I want is the HPI A4 Quattro body painted bright yellow and I want all the windows tinted dark...but so you can barely see thru them. When you reply to my e-mail, I will tell you what I want and we can talk price
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Old 11-05-2002, 09:07 PM   #21
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well everyone, here are pics of the final product....I am pretty happy with it...although it could be 100 times better...







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Old 11-05-2002, 10:26 PM   #22
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Default Looks good to me!!

Hey, whats wrong with that. A few weekends of racing and .......

What kind of paint are you using. If Practa R/C car paint. Buy a bottle of the thinner, Use a Q-tip wet (not dripping) to carefully remove the bleed. Don't get the Q-tip too wet with the thinner unless you are going to paint over it. It will dull the finish on the lexan which you wouldn't want on clear windows.
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Old 11-05-2002, 10:30 PM   #23
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I can tell what kind of chassis you have under that body by the tools you have laying around in your pics.
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Old 11-06-2002, 10:15 AM   #24
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you can also see my 2400mAh power-maxx pack in the second pic. I am going to be picking myself up some different battery packs soon. From what you said in battery post....the power-maxx is crap.
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Old 11-06-2002, 10:33 AM   #25
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Default Power-Maxx packs

Don't get rid of them if they are working fine for you. Get your moneys worth out of them.
The reason I say what I say about the Maxx-Packs is, I have bought 6 packs in the last 4 months and had trouble right away. I disassembled the packs and made then into side x side packs for my Pro3. I was not having trouble charging but at the track they would dump prematurely. So I cycled every battery individually and did not find not one battery that would read 2400 mah in a cycle. Most were around 1800-1900 mah.,but each pack of six cells had at least one cell that was less than 1000 mah. I still have 3 Maxx-Packs left but use them only in my starter box and one seems to be going away now.
I will probally replace them with 3300 NiMh's as I have 3 cars to start at the track when I race.
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Old 11-06-2002, 10:43 AM   #26
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From your pictures, I think that you did a great job of painting & mounting the body. Especially a HPI body on an Associated chassis.
Really is the ONE thing about R/C that I hate, painting and mounting bodies.
We usually race at least 4 cars at a race and I'm the mechanic for all of them. My son is 7 yrs old (speed racer) and my stepson is 24? (chim-chim) and not very mechanicly inclined. So I get stuck with all of the dirty work.
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Old 11-06-2002, 01:44 PM   #27
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Next time get a tape that will not bleed. I bought some Pactra R/C Car tape that works awesome on r/c car bodies. Try some better tape and your car will look definitely better. (Tip: dont use masking tape, it isn't sticky enough) that was just my observation and I got a lot of bleeding from that. One other thing, try getting car bodies that come with window masks, those things are just plain old awesome.
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Old 11-06-2002, 07:20 PM   #28
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i use 3M electrical tape for masking details. it works great because it stretches a bit for curves. it also leaves minimal adhesive during cleanup. for larger masking areas, i use sheets of vinyl stickers. they come off in one piece after painting.
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