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Old 10-03-2006, 10:49 PM   #5776
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Default Finding a way to move the servo closer to the center?

I'm running lipos and I want to move the servo in closer to the center line of the chassis to help balance the car. Has anyone found a ball/nut that will fit inside of an Xray ball cup for the servo tierod? Something like the ball/nut swivels that attaches the shocks. I think I could grind down the servo arm nearest the servo, use a flat head screw on the inside and still clear the outside of the servo. I could then move it in closer 3-4mm. Anyone do this yet?
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Old 10-03-2006, 11:16 PM   #5777
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Dynamite makes an alum servo arm, its striat up, if you mount the str rod on the servo side of the arm you can mount the servo flush with no spacers and no rubbing on the top deck.
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:06 AM   #5778
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Default Will it rub on the servo?

Quote:
Originally Posted by C_O_jones
Dynamite makes an alum servo arm, its striat up, if you mount the str rod on the servo side of the arm you can mount the servo flush with no spacers and no rubbing on the top deck.
I figured it would limit servo movement???
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Old 10-04-2006, 09:31 AM   #5779
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Travel amount is the same with no binding at all.
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:55 AM   #5780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_O_jones
Travel amount is the same with no binding at all.
Same here!!!
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Old 10-08-2006, 11:56 AM   #5781
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Ok, follow-up on the TRF shocks:
1- the xray shock collars seem to fit perfectly on the trf shock bodies - excellent as it will allow to use the xray shocks By the way, these things are an absolute dream to build, one try for each and 4 similarly rebouding shocks in 15ms. Only challenge was to empty all the air from the bottom cartdrige (about 10 cycles on the Ride pump), but as this is the first time they were filled in, it's acceptable imho.
2- The required shock length on the T2 seems to be lower as on the FK05 as the trf dampers with the xray shock ends are too short to allow enough droop, even not screwing them on fully, and not taking in account the inside notch in the shock body. I know it isn't the FK05 forum, but as there seems to be noone there anymore and I'm sure there's some T2 owners who had a FK05 and had fitted trf shocks, can anyone please advise which shock end is a direct fit for the previous car ?? (Patriiick, no need to answer, thanks ) - Thanks!

Cheers,
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:42 PM   #5782
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I use the yokomo shock ends (from the old MR4TC) and they are long enough.

I've had no problems with mine on the fk05

Karl
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Old 10-09-2006, 01:48 AM   #5783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. MR4
I use the yokomo shock ends (from the old MR4TC) and they are long enough.

I've had no problems with mine on the fk05

Karl
Karl,

excellent - my old car is the SD and still have some parts for it - will check out how they fit. Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:31 PM   #5784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbckevin
I am an unsponsored driver, I have had the plastic shocks on my FK05 and on my T2. I had no problems with them over the last 2 years. I have not broken a body once. I do run the Pdub front bumper.

I find no difference between the TRF shock on my 415msx and the T2 shocks. I dont have any leaking, just rebuild them every two months and go race.
what's ur trick to rebuild them? cause i can't get it right for the life of me. i did them by the manual but they rebound to much and too hard and they are impossible to bleed.they are supposed to rebound 25%-75%.
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:24 PM   #5785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416
what's ur trick to rebuild them? cause i can't get it right for the life of me. i did them by the manual but they rebound to much and too hard and they are impossible to bleed.they are supposed to rebound 25%-75%.
yeah i was having the same problem with mine they are impossable
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:33 PM   #5786
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Ahhh... turn them upside down.. on a stand preferably.. and unscrew the bottom cap to release the shaft oring... wait a couple minuets as the excess oil bleeds out and re screw on the cap... check rebound.... repeat as necessary
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:38 PM   #5787
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The shocks are EASY once you get teh hang of them. Here is what I do I can get tehm to rebound about 50% or with no rebound. Both settings have given the same results.

1- open all the holes on the pistons in all the shocks

2-Hold the shock Body straight up and the oil bottle at an angle let the oil run down the side of the body until it is just below the top

3-move the shaft up and down 3-4 time very slowly until all the air bubbles come to the top Leave the piston about half way up on the last move.

4- Then hold the bladder at an angle and "ROLL" it into the shock body. Oil WILL/SHOULD run over the top. Now Slowly pull the shaft down and watcht he to see if the bladder pulls into the body more. Now with you pinky finger or anythng that will fit into the bladder push in on the bladder until it spills more oil and the bladder SEATS on the top of the body.

5-place the foam in the bladder and CAREFULLY screw the cap on as to not CROSS Thread it.

6- Turn shock up side down and open the bleeder and pop it away from the body.

7- LET THEM SIT bleeder side up for about 5-10 mins.

8- lock the bleeder back on to the body and check for rebound. you should have about 50-60% if not OPEN the bleeder back up and SLOWLY push the shaft back in, While it is in close the bleeding cap. This will give ZERO rebound and will get all the shocks to the same.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:17 AM   #5788
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Just wanted to get some info as I am thinking of changing cars.

1. Is it worth waiting for the new 007 kit? If I am going to change cars, I really need to do it very soon(ie. within 2 weeks, if not sooner) as we have our national titles in Nov (16-20) as I need to get a feel for the car and its strengths and weaknesses and also to get a setup on it.
2. Do you need to buy anything (ie. shims, spacers for toe and roll centre adjusments) or are they included with the kit?
3. What optional parts are required for outdoor, asphalt rubber tire racing?
4. How does the standard spool (multi-diff) hold up to mod racing? (ie. wear and tear on drivetrain parts)
5. Does the car tweak easily? ( I have heard differing reports about this and would like to know more)
6. What is the extremes of pinion/spur ratios? (ie. I know that a 116 or 118t is the largest spur (64dp) but what is the smallest pinion that can be used without handfitting the car?) - just wanted to know for brushless gear ratios.
7. What consumables are recommended? (ie. what parts break? or wear quickly). (I have a HB cyclone and in nearly 8 months of mod racing, I have never broken anything, but was told to buy arms, spindles, etc, etc. cause they break easily - maybe its luck, who knows)
8. What is the quality control like? (compared with companies like HB, Schumacher, Losi)

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:44 AM   #5789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375
Just wanted to get some info as I am thinking of changing cars.

1. Is it worth waiting for the new 007 kit? If I am going to change cars, I really need to do it very soon(ie. within 2 weeks, if not sooner) as we have our national titles in Nov (16-20) as I need to get a feel for the car and its strengths and weaknesses and also to get a setup on it.
2. Do you need to buy anything (ie. shims, spacers for toe and roll centre adjusments) or are they included with the kit?
3. What optional parts are required for outdoor, asphalt rubber tire racing?
4. How does the standard spool (multi-diff) hold up to mod racing? (ie. wear and tear on drivetrain parts)
5. Does the car tweak easily? ( I have heard differing reports about this and would like to know more)
6. What is the extremes of pinion/spur ratios? (ie. I know that a 116 or 118t is the largest spur (64dp) but what is the smallest pinion that can be used without handfitting the car?) - just wanted to know for brushless gear ratios.
7. What consumables are recommended? (ie. what parts break? or wear quickly). (I have a HB cyclone and in nearly 8 months of mod racing, I have never broken anything, but was told to buy arms, spindles, etc, etc. cause they break easily - maybe its luck, who knows)
8. What is the quality control like? (compared with companies like HB, Schumacher, Losi)

Thanks in advance.
Answers-

1.) Worth it! You get the lastest technology Xray offers.
2.) A small pack of shims is included. Mostly plastic but you can buy ones that Xray puts out as sets. Ex, .25mm, .50mm, .75mm, 1mm, you get the point. There about $5-8 for a set.
3.) Optional parts, hmm... a spool if you run asphalt, maybe some different castor blocks. If you get the Euro edition you get a mulit-diff, flexabliy chassis and stuff like that. (Worth it if you run outdoors a lot.)
4.) Limited feedback on a answer for you. Only ran a mulit-diff locked as a spool a couple times.
5.) N/A
6.) N/A don't run mod, or brushless! Strickly 19t and stock for me!
7.) Nothing wears too much. Belts hold up for a while, you may find yourself going through those cvd pins. Stock up on those. They wear out quickly especially in mod. The new 007 is suppost to have a solution for this problem.

Parts:
Arms
C-hubs
Knuckles/Spindles/Steering blocks (whatever you call them today)
At least one CVD (Axle)
Plastic drive shaft cups. 3mm (4pk)
Rear hubs
A bearing or two
P-Dub bumper
A shock body set or two (just in case)
Spring set (both sets are a plus)

About all I would have in my spares bin.

8.) Part quality? Very, very superb. The car comes preassembled (just the chassis and bulkheads) to insure every is machine right. It's a very well set car. I've ran one year after year (for the last 4 years) and keep coming back. I to had a cyclone for a few weeks. Wasn't very thrilled over it and just didn't want to put the time into it. Plus parts in this area is well very disappointing. Locally no one runs the car except on carpet around me.

Hope that helps!
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:52 AM   #5790
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If any one cares to know, Stomerhobbies has just put up the 007 T2 into inventory. Should be arriving soon! Price seems just right.
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