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Old 09-21-2006, 06:51 AM   #5701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canto54
I'm using these shocks on mine. Direct fit as said Patriiick but be carefull of the lenght because with some shoch position on the tower, they can be a bit short so I had to unscrew a little the ballcup
Can I ask why you would want to change shocks...?
The stock shocks are unbelievable tunable and easy to build and rebuild...Just wondering why peeps thing changing them could actually give an anvantage.
I understand if you already have set of Tamiya shocks laying around but wouldn't the $60.00 for the shocks be better spent on multi diff, spares, a battery or tires?
Sorry if I seem bitter but just think it is pointless that if Paul L and Travis S can win consitantly with the stock shocks why bother. Save your money and get the new upgrade kit or Car...
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:28 AM   #5702
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Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Can I ask why you would want to change shocks...?
The stock shocks are unbelievable tunable and easy to build and rebuild...Just wondering why peeps thing changing them could actually give an anvantage.
I understand if you already have set of Tamiya shocks laying around but wouldn't the $60.00 for the shocks be better spent on multi diff, spares, a battery or tires?
Sorry if I seem bitter but just think it is pointless that if Paul L and Travis S can win consitantly with the stock shocks why bother. Save your money and get the new upgrade kit or Car...
-Shookie <><
Because the plastic bodies suck. I have busted 2 in a bump into a wall. I bought new bodies and they would leak out the bottom. And they are not as easy to bleed as some think. To get the dampening the same takes time. The bladders are to tall I think. The adjustable pistons are nice. But the TRF shocks are the best out there. To bad the high dollar Xray still does not come with the best shocks.
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:29 AM   #5703
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Hey guys, has one of you fitted Tamiya fluorine shocks to his/her T2 (or T1 for that matter) - is it a direct fit, or do you need to invest in additional caps/ballcups? Dimensions ok? anything more to consider? Thanks!

Cheers,
Paul
I use the Xray lower mounts. And HPI Pro4 upper mounts. They work great. I have the blue ones and looks very nice.
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:45 AM   #5704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Can I ask why you would want to change shocks...?
The stock shocks are unbelievable tunable and easy to build and rebuild...Just wondering why peeps thing changing them could actually give an anvantage.
I understand if you already have set of Tamiya shocks laying around but wouldn't the $60.00 for the shocks be better spent on multi diff, spares, a battery or tires?
Sorry if I seem bitter but just think it is pointless that if Paul L and Travis S can win consitantly with the stock shocks why bother. Save your money and get the new upgrade kit or Car...
-Shookie <><
easy to rebuild??, It's a joke? It takes me 1 or 2 hours to have the same 4 shocks with the stock Xray!!
With the tamiya all is right the first time! 10min to do it!! lol
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:27 AM   #5705
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I use the (short) Serpent shocks. They are awesome. Only thing you loose is the ability to change the amount of holes without disassembling them.
And you have to use either the FK'05 or T2 lower joints.

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Old 09-21-2006, 08:35 AM   #5706
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Thanks everyone for your comments. Glad to hear I can keep the xray bottom-mounts as the assembly system is the best, ever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Can I ask why you would want to change shocks...?
The stock shocks are unbelievable tunable and easy to build and rebuild...Just wondering why peeps thing changing them could actually give an anvantage.
I understand if you already have set of Tamiya shocks laying around but wouldn't the $60.00 for the shocks be better spent on multi diff, spares, a battery or tires?
Sorry if I seem bitter but just think it is pointless that if Paul L and Travis S can win consitantly with the stock shocks why bother. Save your money and get the new upgrade kit or Car...
-Shookie <><
Because I am unbelievably rich and already own all the stuff you listed above

Seriously, the plastic ones break, leak from the bottom, and are a MAJOR PITA to get rid of the bubbles as well as bleed properly ie get two equally rebounding ones. I redid them again last week and thought "It's only 9pm, this time I'll get them to rebound the exact same (at least at the pair level) even if takes me the whole night"... well, guess what, at 11:30pm I gave up. I'm tired of these piece-o's. Maybe the pros can afford that much time to rebuild their shocks of they have a special technique - I can't, despite quite a bit of experience in re/building hydraulic shocks... If $50 (that's what it costs) can save me frustration AND bring me piece of mind at the track, knowing I can change hydraulics in a breeze, well, it's worth it.

For info: tried to use my MR4TC-SD shocks and the shaft is too short. Otherwise the yokomo's were fantastic too!

Will let you know how my life changed now I have proper shocks on the car btw the argument "if the world champion can win with it then they must be good enough" doesn't hold true for us average racers... As I can't compensate technical shortcomings with skills (don't have much of the latter) I need a technically foolproof car - I'm just not good enough to afford a technically challenged ride... think about it

Cheers and thanks all for the feedback,
Paul
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:42 AM   #5707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Because the plastic bodies suck. I have busted 2 in a bump into a wall. I bought new bodies and they would leak out the bottom. And they are not as easy to bleed as some think. To get the dampening the same takes time. The bladders are to tall I think. The adjustable pistons are nice. But the TRF shocks are the best out there. To bad the high dollar Xray still does not come with the best shocks.
Not bashing of your preference on shocks here...

If the stock shocks continue to leak oil, or contain air, after more than a few runs post build then the piston is to high in the body and is contacting the bladder. This will usually always result in air from the backside of the bladder leaking around the seal and into the main reservoir. I've found that this happens more often when running a combination of the following:

* Short ride height
* Using the lower inside shock mount position
* Using long shock lengths (not screwing on the lower ball end all the way)

An easy way to notice if the shock pistons are to high is to look and see if either the front or rear pair of shocks top alum collars are close to the top of the threads (less than 2.5mm away from the top) when the cars ride height is set.
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:54 AM   #5708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar
Seriously, the plastic ones break, leak from the bottom, and are a MAJOR PITA to get rid of the bubbles as well as bleed properly ie get two equally rebounding ones. I redid them again last week and thought "It's only 9pm, this time I'll get them to rebound the exact same (at least at the pair level) even if takes me the whole night"... well, guess what, at 11:30pm I gave up.
Its not *quick*, but if you follow the steps here then they'll rebound the same and it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes per shock. The key to equalizing the rebound is in step 12.
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:19 AM   #5709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Not bashing of your preference on shocks here...

If the stock shocks continue to leak oil, or contain air, after more than a few runs post build then the piston is to high in the body and is contacting the bladder. This will usually always result in air from the backside of the bladder leaking around the seal and into the main reservoir. I've found that this happens more often when running a combination of the following:

* Short ride height
* Using the lower inside shock mount position
* Using long shock lengths (not screwing on the lower ball end all the way)

An easy way to notice if the shock pistons are to high is to look and see if either the front or rear pair of shocks top alum collars are close to the top of the threads (less than 2.5mm away from the top) when the cars ride height is set.
What is the reccomended shock length???
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:37 AM   #5710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
What is the reccomended shock length???
I'm not sure of the exact measurement, but will find out. What I do know is that it is best to do the following:

* Screw the top cap on all the way, bleed some of the pressure out the bottom cap, tighten down the top cap again as tight as it will go, and finally follow the rest of the bleeding process. Most of the time, there will initially be too much pressure to screw the top down fully. Therefore you need to bleed some of the pressure out. Just unscrew the bottom cap, with the shock upside down, and let it bleed for about 15 seconds. Then tighten the bottom cap and screw on the top cap fully.
* Screw the bottom ball end on all the way until there's 1mm of thread left, as per page 21 of the manual
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:52 AM   #5711
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I was about to try and explain that same bleeding prosses but you the man....

I mentioned that world class drivers use them and that because of that there isn't a flaw with the product.

Let me first say I am not assuming you are making errors but if you use the profile Team GP just procribed you will have really nice and even shocks..

Also if you can afford it the Tamiya shock pump is almost a must in every pit.
-Shookie <><
P.S. These have been my opinions and not the opinions of any other. IMHO...LOL
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:58 AM   #5712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
I was about to try and explain that same bleeding prosses but you the man....

I mentioned that world class drivers use them and that because of that there isn't a flaw with the product.

Let me first say I am not assuming you are making errors but if you use the profile Team GP just procribed you will have really nice and even shocks..

Also if you can afford it the Tamiya shock pump is almost a must in every pit.
-Shookie <><
P.S. These have been my opinions and not the opinions of any other. IMHO...LOL
World class drivers use flawed product because they get stuff for free. I know of a team driver that hated the flex tech on carpet. But ran the car because he got free stuff. Now he his happy because he has the new chassis 3.5 without flex.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:00 AM   #5713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Its not *quick*, but if you follow the steps here then they'll rebound the same and it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes per shock. The key to equalizing the rebound is in step 12.
10 minutes per shock! That is crazy. I can clean and bleed all 4 TRF shocks in 10 minutes. And spend the other 30 minutes telling you how bad Xray shocks are.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:14 AM   #5714
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then... just stick with the TRF shocks.,.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:22 AM   #5715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
then... just stick with the TRF shocks.,.

Pics on T2 with TRF or Serpent shocks would be nice!!
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