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Old 08-22-2006, 09:17 PM   #5491
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No it wont matter. All 4 holes in the adjustable pistons are the same size. The pistons will only rotate 3 clicks each way. One way is 1 hole open the other way is 4 holes open. That make sense?

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Old 08-22-2006, 09:19 PM   #5492
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Yep. Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:36 PM   #5493
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Oracle- not sure about the first problem- that's gonna be something you have to figure out on the setup station... but the binding shocks I can help with; when you installed the 5.8mm balls in the top of the shock cap, you must be sure you are putting them into the correct side. If you look, one side is shiny and one side isn't. Inserting the ball from one side makes the ball sit deeper in the plastic and therefore locks the shock cap into a bind when you tighten the screw. You'll have to look at your instructions to see which side is correct cause I can't ever remember myself.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:51 PM   #5494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Oracle- not sure about the first problem- that's gonna be something you have to figure out on the setup station... but the binding shocks I can help with; when you installed the 5.8mm balls in the top of the shock cap, you must be sure you are putting them into the correct side. If you look, one side is shiny and one side isn't. Inserting the ball from one side makes the ball sit deeper in the plastic and therefore locks the shock cap into a bind when you tighten the screw. You'll have to look at your instructions to see which side is correct cause I can't ever remember myself.
The shiny side is the side that you see the hex head. I just build my kit today so I am sure.....

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Old 08-23-2006, 01:17 AM   #5495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Oracle- not sure about the first problem- that's gonna be something you have to figure out on the setup station... but the binding shocks I can help with; when you installed the 5.8mm balls in the top of the shock cap, you must be sure you are putting them into the correct side. If you look, one side is shiny and one side isn't. Inserting the ball from one side makes the ball sit deeper in the plastic and therefore locks the shock cap into a bind when you tighten the screw. You'll have to look at your instructions to see which side is correct cause I can't ever remember myself.
Thanks

I'll go check it out tonight. Can i remove the 5.8mm pivot balls from the shocks? Will it caused any damages to my shocks? Thanks
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Old 08-23-2006, 04:32 AM   #5496
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Guys im moving up to mod (from stock) but have NO idea of gear ratio....i will be running and xray t2 with 84 spur(48p) orion v2 tx2 on standard sorex 28s and matched 4200s

What pinion should i use?

Thanks,
Nick
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Old 08-23-2006, 09:03 AM   #5497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oracle
Thanks

I'll go check it out tonight. Can i remove the 5.8mm pivot balls from the shocks? Will it caused any damages to my shocks? Thanks

Well if you have a press where you can punch out the ball while supporting the outside of it, you might not do any harm to them, if you try with pliers and other crude tools...Yes you probably will. Best to buy new ends/caps and balls.
Hope that helps,
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Old 08-23-2006, 11:26 AM   #5498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Well if you have a press where you can punch out the ball while supporting the outside of it, you might not do any harm to them, if you try with pliers and other crude tools...Yes you probably will. Best to buy new ends/caps and balls.
Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><
Hi Mr Shookie. Thanks for the idea. Got the problem fixed now. Found some new problems too. Anyway the car still making a lot of noise when i go full throttle. Check the gear mesh, looks ok. Tried to roll the chassis without the motor attached, seems ok, nothing is binding. Will have to troubleshoot further.
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Old 08-23-2006, 12:01 PM   #5499
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I'm considering a return to XRay this fall. I was thinking of maybe getting the T2R and replacing the chassis with a BMI setup as I will be running only on carpet in stock and 19t. Anyone see any problems with this idea?

The composite outdrives don't bother me. I've run them on my TC3's and 4's for a while and never had a problem (though I know others who have).

Also, any ETA on the T2R's release?

Blake
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:04 PM   #5500
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Xray released the T2r on August 15th. Its not availible in the states yet.

oracle, Have you rebuilt your motor lately? Are your diffs tight?
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:41 PM   #5501
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What are the differences with the T2R and the T2.. I just picked up a T2 recently and really don't want to have to buy a new car.

thanks in advance...
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:00 PM   #5502
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It is a "raycer" kit. The T2 is still a better car. This is essentially a less expensive T2 at the expense of a carbon fiber chassis and other parts that make the T2 more expensive. For more go to www.teamxray.com
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:36 PM   #5503
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Default I would get the cf T2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I'm considering a return to XRay this fall. I was thinking of maybe getting the T2R and replacing the chassis with a BMI setup as I will be running only on carpet in stock and 19t. Anyone see any problems with this idea?

The composite outdrives don't bother me. I've run them on my TC3's and 4's for a while and never had a problem (though I know others who have).

Also, any ETA on the T2R's release?

Blake
If you want to run carpet then just get a CRC upper deck. Otherwise it's nice to have the flex option with the stock upper deck if you decide to do carpet/rubber tires. Just my opinion.
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:49 PM   #5504
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I haven't had any problems so far with box stock kit... minus some spring changes of course.. If you really tighten the top deck and bulkhead screws, there is no problem... atleast for me... I took a big hit in warmups before a race, checked the car after the race and its flat as could be...
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:53 PM   #5505
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Default Need Help/Parts

Where can I find the duraluminum diff halves. I only can find the hole diff and every other part for it . Are they sold seperately
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