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Old 08-21-2006, 07:43 PM   #5476
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the extended one give you a little more ackerman. it put the steering turnbuckles closer to the rear of the car. generally the t2 has plent of ackerman using the standard set

the advantage to the team tamale knuckles is that it uses the same bearing as the composit one.
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:51 PM   #5477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvt01
Anybody else thinks that it is about time to see a new Xray comming out?
Here is why I think we can expect something very soon:

1)
Lifecycle of the cars in the last years:
FK04 - released in 2004 around May
FK05 - released in 2005 around February-March
T2 - announced in November 2005, first kits were available 2006 January
T2 Evo2??????? - announced 2006 September available November ?????????
It seems that every 10 months we have got a new xray.

2)
We can assume that Xray's focus market is the USA. In most part of the US the carpet season starts around September. That's when most of us think about buying a new car. I would say that's the best time to release a new kit...

3)
The new parts spotted out on the Worlds are still not released and we don't have any official information about the intent of Xray releasing them anytime soon. Maybe they will come with the new kit...

I don't know nothing nor heard any rumours but still...

What do you think?
Even if they do bring out a new car...who cares? And as for testing, any good race team is ALWAYS tweaking and trying new things. Its called R&D.
Even if they do bring out a new car, it is very unlikely that what you have now is all of the sudden going to be obsolete. I had a FK04 up till the T2 was released, and the T2 is only just a fraction of a second faster. And that is only in the hands of a good driver. If you are only so-so with the wheel, its not going to make or break you...

Just think.. Ford and chevy and honda and toyota bring out new cars every year that are different than the year before.... Those bastards! Who do they thing we are?!?
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:59 PM   #5478
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but isn't that why the majority of the people in the US lease their cars? so they can have the newest model when it becomes available.
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:49 PM   #5479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
but isn't that why the majority of the people in the US lease their cars? so they can have the newest model when it becomes available.
Or it could be a very low monthly payment.
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:57 PM   #5480
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Default t2 bmi chassis

Just picked up a T2 with the bmi chassis. Anybody have a good set up for stock rubber on carpet? Looked through the xray site but didn't find one with the bmi chassis.
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:23 PM   #5481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_O_jones
SlamMan
If you get the alum knuckles, get some extra wheel bearings. They are 5X9mm and the outers seem to take a beating pretty quick.
That with your list is about good.
Fred
The Tamale hubs use the std 10x4 mm bearings... the XRay aluminum hubs use the 9x4 mm bearings.
I have used the extended Tamale hubs... you wont need them except for extremely high bite tracks... I recommend the std Tamale hubs... and I prefer the Tamale hubs because they seem stronger than the XRay aluminum ones and they use the kit size bearings
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:15 AM   #5482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman
The Tamale hubs use the std 10x4 mm bearings... the XRay aluminum hubs use the 9x4 mm bearings.
I have used the extended Tamale hubs... you wont need them except for extremely high bite tracks... I recommend the std Tamale hubs... and I prefer the Tamale hubs because they seem stronger than the XRay aluminum ones and they use the kit size bearings
I appreciate the input. I'll go with the Tamale.
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:58 AM   #5483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitCrew
Even if they do bring out a new car...who cares? And as for testing, any good race team is ALWAYS tweaking and trying new things. Its called R&D.
Even if they do bring out a new car, it is very unlikely that what you have now is all of the sudden going to be obsolete. I had a FK04 up till the T2 was released, and the T2 is only just a fraction of a second faster. And that is only in the hands of a good driver. If you are only so-so with the wheel, its not going to make or break you...

Just think.. Ford and chevy and honda and toyota bring out new cars every year that are different than the year before.... Those bastards! Who do they thing we are?!?
Don't get me wrong, I would be happy if they came out with an updated version. I would change my car every year anyways. I've just found that a year old car even when maintained properly is not the same as a new or you have to change a bunch of things which would cost the same as a complete new car And there is something with a new car... it drives just so much better than a year old
I know that whenever they come out with a new one my spare parts stock wont be obsolete (ok maybe the CVD parts) that's why I sticked to Xray T1 and I hope the same for the T2.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:35 AM   #5484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
the extended one give you a little more ackerman. it put the steering turnbuckles closer to the rear of the car. generally the t2 has plent of ackerman using the standard set.
Friendly correction. Having the steering turnbuckles closer to the rear of the car provides less ackermann effect. Less ackerman means that the difference in steering arcs between the inside and outside wheels will be reduced.

I tend to think about, and work on, both ackerman and front toe-out together. In combination, each of them has a significant effect on initial steering response and mid corner front end grip. This is due to the fact that the front end is loaded with weight in both situations. They also affect corner exit, but to a lesser degree in comparison since the cars weight is shifted rearward.

What I've found on carpet is that if you desire quick initial steering response (aggressive corner entry), its best to set the front toe-out to 1.0d or even 1.5d and then use the least amount of ackerman. This is accomplished by placing the servo saver in the forward position and mounting the steering turnbuckles in a third hole on the steering blocks closer to the rear of the car. Using this configuration (front toe-out at 1.0d) the difference between the inside and outside steering arcs should be around 2.0d at *useable* full lock (set L/R full lock with transmitter EPA while the car is on a setup system). You can use the old FK'04 ackerman extension plates with the T2 OEM steering blocks to provide the third hole as well.

However, if the car seems to be too twitchy on initial steering inputs, such as at corner entry at the end of a straight (and changing shock dampening doesn't cure it), then I use the second hole on the steering blocks and set the front toe-out to 0d. This configuration increases the ackerman effect. But when used in conjunction with the reduced front toe-out, it should maintain the 2.0d difference between the inside and outside steering arcs at full lock. The new front toe-out of 0d should tone down the initial steering response of the front end (NON-aggressive corner entry) as the wheels start to turn in.

Keep in mind that all of this is subjective to the tire/surface combination, corner entry speed attained from the power of the motor, as well as other factors.

Regarding ackerman specifically, at each track I try to find the best combination of front toe-out and ackerman effect that produces enough mid-corner front end grip, without causing the front inside wheel to drag or even cause the car to oversteer in a pendulum effect around the inside front wheel.

From what I've seen, with the combination of medium/high to high bite carpet and soft foams (double pink/orange & double/pink), having a difference of 2.0d between the inside and outside steering arcs provides the best mid corner grip (ala slip angles), without drag or oversteer.

**Edited to add**

On the setup station, I'm currently setting full lock to measure out at one of the following (high traction carpet/foam ONE-WAY setup):

Inside wheel/Outside wheel (degree of arc)
-------------------
13.5/15.5
14.0/16.0 (default)
14.5/16.5

When trying a front diff, I've found that my setup required an increase in steering arcs from both wheels and the difference in arc increased slightly (I'm guessing around 2.5d). However, I never fully tested or measured the steering arcs with a front diff.
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Last edited by teamgp; 08-22-2006 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:31 PM   #5485
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If you don't feel like reading for the next year:

More toe out in the front: the more aggressive the steering will feel

Moving the steering links back on the knuckles: Smoother

Moving the servo saver back: More aggressive

Opposite results for the opposites of the above.
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:53 PM   #5486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Friendly correction. Having the steering turnbuckles closer to the rear of the car provides less ackermann effect. Less ackerman means that the difference in steering arcs between the inside and outside wheels will be reduced.
ooops
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:28 PM   #5487
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Hi guys, i just got my T2 and tested it on the track last night. I setup my car to the standard setting for rubber tires and change the chassis flex to medium, 2 piston holes at the front and 4 at the back. However i'm experiencing some problems. The front wheels of the car are a bit loose in the straight. It tends to pull to the right side during full throttle. What's the problem?

I found that the shocks are a bit tight on the shocks tower. Is this normal or should i loosen them up a bit so that they won't bind so much?

Overall the car is very responsive but the car is just a bit loud. I've check the gear meshing and they seemed ok. My friends said that the motor might be causing the problem. I'm using Tamiya Super Stock RZ. Please help me here.

Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:38 PM   #5488
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I recently purchased a T2 and for some setups they require 2 piston holes open and 2 closed. Does it matter which 2 are open and which 2 are closed?
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:06 PM   #5489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AChupp2
I recently purchased a T2 and for some setups they require 2 piston holes open and 2 closed. Does it matter which 2 are open and which 2 are closed?
With the 4 hole pistons when you have 2 open the other 2 are closed. Most setups call for 2 open in the front (Or 2 closed...which ever way you read the sheet) and 3 open in the back (or one closed). Same difference just a different way of reading it.

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Old 08-22-2006, 09:15 PM   #5490
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Just to clear up what I meant. Say I want 2 holes in a piston to be open does it matter which 2 holes are open or do any 2 holes do. (Will a certain combination of 2 open produce a different effect.) Hopee that makes it more clear.
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