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Old 06-01-2006, 10:10 PM   #4801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
It isn't called kickup in the rear- it's called squat. Anti squat is the pins leaned back, for example you would run mid/low or high/mid. Pro squat is the pins leaned forward- low/mid or mid/high.

The reason the rear is referred to as squat is because the changes in angle affect the car on power more than off.
Brain fart... about Kick up vs. anti squat. Thanks for the help. Will you be at the BTH? I am going to head to it this year.
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Old 06-02-2006, 07:39 AM   #4802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
I can run any spur gear i want now as i have a 4 stud spur hub.
I have been looking at those, How is the quality, fit, and finish compare to stock?
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Old 06-02-2006, 07:42 AM   #4803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Have you guys played with track width much?

I ask because when I first built the car, I built it with 3m innner shims all around (for Jaco tires), but run Parmas so my car was ..umm... about 192mm or so. I rebuilt it with 1.5mm shims all around and was now shy of 190, but more to the point of al this, car got edgy with a high steering set-up on it (6 deg caster, low front roll) and doesnt seem t carry the corner speed it did when it was 192+mm. I am now again at 190. I added a black shim (0.75m) all around and may or may not get to test it for awhile.

I am hoping someone else test crazy has played around with this tuning aid.

Ray
I was hoping to play with this this week end we will see how it goes but as you know it's all rubbers down here. I was thinking of making the front and rear equal and see what happens. Ill go narow first and wider second. Ill let you know what I find out.
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Old 06-02-2006, 09:12 AM   #4804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pucho
I was hoping to play with this this week end we will see how it goes but as you know it's all rubbers down here. I was thinking of making the front and rear equal and see what happens. Ill go narow first and wider second. Ill let you know what I find out.

Hey buddy-long time no talk!! Anyways-I will be going into tonight to run a couple packs. We'll compare notes again soon and thanks,

Ray
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Old 06-02-2006, 09:38 AM   #4805
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Originally Posted by WhoMe
Do they sell these in any other color..other than blue? Im thinkin Im going to get these for my T2. Also are any modifications needed to run these shocks?

I run the Tamiya blue shocks and they look sweet. I used the Xray lower mounts on the shocks. For the towers I used HPI Pro4 shock bushings. 3 hole pistons and 30wt oil and you are good to go. I do not play with dampening that much so the adjustable pistons are not missed for me.
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Old 06-02-2006, 09:56 AM   #4806
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Thanks for the information. The only reason I asked about color is cause I didnt want them looking too out of place on my car. They have those coated ones that are grey that should look just fine. But more importantly is the function of the shocks. I hear nothing but AWSOME things about these shocks. I just want easy to build shocks, fill em and forget about that particular variable. If thats all I need to make them the right length and fit than I should be good to go. I can use the Xray springs on those right?
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Old 06-02-2006, 10:20 AM   #4807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Have you guys played with track width much?

I ask because when I first built the car, I built it with 3m innner shims all around (for Jaco tires), but run Parmas so my car was ..umm... about 192mm or so. I rebuilt it with 1.5mm shims all around and was now shy of 190, but more to the point of al this, car got edgy with a high steering set-up on it (6 deg caster, low front roll) and doesnt seem t carry the corner speed it did when it was 192+mm. I am now again at 190. I added a black shim (0.75m) all around and may or may not get to test it for awhile.

I am hoping someone else test crazy has played around with this tuning aid.

Ray
What do you mean by 'edgy'?

Both ends being narrower will increase chassis roll. This is probably causing the car to dig in too much, ergo the loss of corner speed. And if by 'edgy' you mean that it is hard to be precise with the steering, then I'd suggest either of the following:

* If the track is relatively smooth and/or has tight switchbacks/chicanes, then I'd opt for stiffer springs all the way around (going up on all four corners in 2 to 3 lb increments)
* If the track is bumpy and the car is tracking very well over the bumps, then I'd opt for either raising the front and rear roll centers equally through the lower arm positions, or use front/rear anti-roll bars.

Making a decision on what to change also has to take into account where the car is losing corner speed. In tight corners (off-power or neutral throttle), more open sweepers (usually on-power) or all corners.

Posting your full setup info in the online XRAY Setup Sheets would help us to provide better advice as well.
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:36 PM   #4808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoMe
Thanks for the information. The only reason I asked about color is cause I didnt want them looking too out of place on my car. They have those coated ones that are grey that should look just fine. But more importantly is the function of the shocks. I hear nothing but AWSOME things about these shocks. I just want easy to build shocks, fill em and forget about that particular variable. If thats all I need to make them the right length and fit than I should be good to go. I can use the Xray springs on those right?

yup. xray springs work fine
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Old 06-02-2006, 08:11 PM   #4809
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Team GP-the car was better than other set-ups, but it now turns in way too hard and them mid-turn it pushes (slides on the font outside tire with the rear end hiked up in the air. I'll do an nline set-up sheet. Having said this-its not hard to drive nor incosnsistent, but racing at the gate is tough and you need to be super dialed to get to play near the top.

More details to come soon.

Thanks for your insights. I have tried higher roll centers front to back (mid roll and front mid, rearhigh) with little success (lack of overall steering, but mostly in sweepers), but one thing for sure was when I widened the car-I was able to go down in front spring rate from about 32 to 30.

Ray
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Old 06-02-2006, 08:36 PM   #4810
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Heres the the set-up sheet with notes included. I forgot shocks though. Its 30 Hudy front with 3-holes Closed and in back its 30 hudy and 2-holes closed.
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Old 06-02-2006, 09:19 PM   #4811
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Take some up-travel out of the read and give it kick-up rather than anti dive on the front. Use the low and medium positions on the front arms. If you do this, i'd go back to the 4 degree hubs as giving the car kick-up actually increases the caster.
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Old 06-02-2006, 09:54 PM   #4812
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Ray, just go back to flat front hinge pins in the 0/0 position and add a front swaybar. What you're describing is too much initial and then a loss of center/exit steering. Going flat on the front will put some center/exit back in it and the swaybar will take that edgy feel away. You'll most likely end up going to high r/c in the rear to get the overall steering back. Also, flattening the front and raising the rear will raise the roll centers making the car want to roll less- which is why it's doublesteering right now (IMO) cause it's rolling too much...
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Old 06-03-2006, 03:09 PM   #4813
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I agree with BigDogRacing on flattening the front arms in the middle roll center position and also raising the rear arms to the high roll center position.

Before trying a front anti-roll bar I'd suggest moving the front shock top mounts all the way out to position #5 (more upright shocks handle bumps more efficiently) and maybe even going up to purple springs (33lb) in the front. If the front still handles the bumps well like this, then you may be able to get away with adding the extra weight of the anti-roll bar.

One last thing that may balance the on/off power steering a little better with the 6d caster blocks, is to reduce your front static camber to 1.25d or 1.0d.
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Old 06-03-2006, 04:27 PM   #4814
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Hello,

I would like to know if someone know where can I find screw in titanium for the T2 ?
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Old 06-03-2006, 04:47 PM   #4815
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Originally Posted by Manu_05'
Hello,

I would like to know if someone know where can I find screw in titanium for the T2 ?
I only know of the screw kits for the T1FK(04). It won't have every type of screw that comes in the T2 kit, but it has most of them. The main places I use the Ti screws are up high on the chassis, in order to lower the CG. I still use steel screws for the bottom bulkhead/standoff mounts and the suspension holders.
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