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Old 03-19-2006, 05:43 AM   #4036
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When building the T2 for the first time if it is going to be used on asphalt low grip conditions only should you use the -0.75 suspension holders?

Also should you build it with the chassis in softest setting?

Thanks
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:21 AM   #4037
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Does anyone have any info on the Big race this weekend?
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Old 03-19-2006, 11:19 AM   #4038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
When building the T2 for the first time if it is going to be used on asphalt low grip conditions only should you use the -0.75 suspension holders?

Also should you build it with the chassis in softest setting?

Thanks
If've started with 0 mm holders and stiffest setup and have at this moment the best results with medium to stif chassis and still 0 holders.
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:12 PM   #4039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
When building the T2 for the first time if it is going to be used on asphalt low grip conditions only should you use the -0.75 suspension holders?

Also should you build it with the chassis in softest setting?

Thanks
I use the -0.75's on the front (back part of front arms) so the arms kick up.

Softest chassis setting, but with centre bulkhead brace still in place.
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:18 PM   #4040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris08527
anyone have a good starting set up for asphalt with rubber tires???
using the kit rubber setup as a reference, do this:
go a soft chassis setting, lay the rear shocks in one hole at the tower, four holes open on piston rear, three holes open on piston front, 30wt, yellow springs rear, blue springs front. kickup at front (-0.75 on front arms, on back)

5.5mm ride height, 1 - 2mm droop front, 2.5mm rear. 1deg neg camber all round, 0.5 toe out front, 3mm toe in rear (drop down if track is big and open/fast). Long wheelbase for large sweeping track, short for tight technical track.

Take off 32's or 37's depending on track temp. Speedmind rims are excellent.

I can also use this setup on carpet, but I generall move the rear shocks up to 2nd hole from top on tower, and run even less droop in rear.

I was using a one-way with the above setup with stock motors, but have just moved to mod and discovered the SPOOL (solid axle)
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Old 03-19-2006, 11:00 PM   #4041
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Default Orion Lipo won't fit in a T2 in case anyone was wondering.

It's not even close. I hope Xray will release a new battery side bulkhead. It would be nice to use my two new Lipo packs.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:22 AM   #4042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
It's not even close. I hope Xray will release a new battery side bulkhead. It would be nice to use my two new Lipo packs.
You will have to grind the hump down to get the packs in.You will need to add 100g of weight to balance the car if you run LiPo packs.
Don't count on them to release a new bulkhead.

Last edited by Twin-Kyle; 03-20-2006 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 10:46 AM   #4043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Barch
Hey guys, well I took first place tonight! w00t.

Anyways, one problem did come up. The qualifer right before the main, I finished in first, but as soon as I passed the finish line I got hit by someone coming and my car stoped going. I took a look at the Motor O-Ring that holds the endbell stuff (bearing, and all that) and it was half-way out, thus causing my motor to stop. I took a small screw driver and poped it back into place. I took the A main in first with it, then I looked at it after the race and it started to come out just a little bit agian.

Anyone else have this problem with this motor? (Element 19T V2). I asked up front if they sell just the O-Ring, because I take it it's too weak and streched out now, but they don't sell them without buying the entire Endbell kit, which is more than the motor itself...

Does anyone know where I could find one?

-Mike
You can go to the Peak site and call the 1-800 # and tell them that you need some and they'll send them to you direct (that's what I did).

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Old 03-20-2006, 01:58 PM   #4044
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Default Na....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-Kyle
You will have to grind the hump down to get the packs in.You will need to add 100g of weight to balance the car if you run LiPo packs.
Don't count on them to release a new bulkhead.
I'm told they will fit in a Corrally.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:24 PM   #4045
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I need opinions on aluminus steering block front and rear.... I know they like kool, but are they good for racing???
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:39 PM   #4046
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Good question. I remember when I got a decent amount of aluminum for my XXX-S and it was a big no-no since it made the car heavier 9it was already way overweight to begin with) and then it also moved the impact of a hit down the line (arms, chassis, etc..). So instead of breaking a steering knuckle, you could break something much more expensive.

Aluminum can also bend instead of break, so your steering/suspensin could be all tweaked and it may look pretty straight...

(from a newbie) so YMMV
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:40 PM   #4047
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Alum steering knuckles are the only parts that I generally replace the plastic parts with. That is the weak part on most cars. Some of the guys I race with have not replaced theres with alum and break quite often. They usually break both the steering knuckle and the "c" hub. I got lucky at the Omaha race and did not break any thing all weekend. (knock on some thing wood) I did replace the rear hub carriers with alum because there were no plastic ones when I broke the rear.

Later, Lee
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:30 PM   #4048
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I just received my Ali hubs and knuckles.

Can't see why Xray uses 9x5mm bearings instead of 10x5mm. Rather inconciderate engineering , or what ??

Jacko
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:51 PM   #4049
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They do use 5x10's....
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:53 PM   #4050
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alu parts increase the unsprung weight... xray changed the whole suspension in order to decrease unsprung weight (smaller bearings, knuckles, lighter arms). I think alu parts just ruin their achievement
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