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Old 02-24-2006, 04:50 PM   #3391
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Originally Posted by beerbarron
I have just about had it with my FT TC4's steering and vague feel. I drove a really poorly setup T2 yesterday and its steering was so much better than what I am used to. Can anyone who has switched to a T2 from a TC4 post on here and tell me if you are happy and feel the car was worth it. The reasons that I am un happy with the TC4 are its vague steering feel and inconsistent handling. I have wrenched on the acr since November and cannot seem to find a setup that I am comfortable with and that gives good lap times.

Man I had a FT TC4. And now a T2. Man dump the TC4. The T2 is so much better. I know what you mean about the TC4. I was there. The car just does not work on carpet. The T2 works!!!
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Old 02-24-2006, 05:23 PM   #3392
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Originally Posted by Michael Barch
Any way to prevent my wheels from hitting the steering block without larger hexes? If not, how much do those Hexes run?
Mostly all the foam tires come slightly over 28mm so what i personally do is when im truing them i just take my file and touch the inside of the wheel a bit to narrow it by a smudge and it cures the problem of the rubbing on the spindles. you really dont have to grind too much youll see give it a try

Quote:
i have the solid oneway installed in my T2 and i noticed when i turn the wheels left and spint he the left wheel does a weird "clicking" motion. i spins then hits some sort of a high spot and jiggles inwards then it moves out again....why??? i have the spacers installed on the outdrives.
What happens is when running a sold axle and turning full lock it causes the drive shafts to hit there absolute max range of movement. the reason you dont see this when running a one way is that each wheel spins independant and isnt being forced in the exact same motion as the other wheel. I.E. your inside and outside tire turn at seperate speeds while running a one way. when running the spool both tires are forced to turn at the same revolution which cause this nasty bind / clicking. some cars it worse then others but there is little you can do about it. whenever i pewrsonally have that problem i 1 make sure to lube the drive shaft as much as possible and then either put a spacer on the inside of the spindle so i dont get as much overall throw or if that isnt possible then just turn down your overall steering in your radio. I feel the car worsk better even if its not at full lock as long as there isnt the bind other then running full locka nd getting the bind.
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Old 02-24-2006, 06:33 PM   #3393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Man I had a FT TC4. And now a T2. Man dump the TC4. The T2 is so much better. I know what you mean about the TC4. I was there. The car just does not work on carpet. The T2 works!!!

I keep hearing it, T2 vs TC4. I am just stubborn or cheap or something. Thanks for the advice. I think I remember you posting on the TC4 thread. All the good advice on the TC4 thread has pretty much dried up. It should not be a suprise though. More and more, no one is running the car. Most of the club guys at my track switched to a T2 last week. The only TC4s left running are BMI cars. Even then lap times are a few tenths off of RDXs and T2s. It would seem the TC4 chassis is not on par with the new euro cars, judging by local lap times.

Would the T2 work as well on rubber tires too?
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Old 02-24-2006, 07:06 PM   #3394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Swanson
Mostly all the foam tires come slightly over 28mm so what i personally do is when im truing them i just take my file and touch the inside of the wheel a bit to narrow it by a smudge and it cures the problem of the rubbing on the spindles. you really dont have to grind too much youll see give it a try



What happens is when running a sold axle and turning full lock it causes the drive shafts to hit there absolute max range of movement. the reason you dont see this when running a one way is that each wheel spins independant and isnt being forced in the exact same motion as the other wheel. I.E. your inside and outside tire turn at seperate speeds while running a one way. when running the spool both tires are forced to turn at the same revolution which cause this nasty bind / clicking. some cars it worse then others but there is little you can do about it. whenever i pewrsonally have that problem i 1 make sure to lube the drive shaft as much as possible and then either put a spacer on the inside of the spindle so i dont get as much overall throw or if that isnt possible then just turn down your overall steering in your radio. I feel the car worsk better even if its not at full lock as long as there isnt the bind other then running full locka nd getting the bind.

You can shim the front wheels so it fits. Team tamale made the new knuckles so that you dont need to shim it.
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Old 02-24-2006, 07:28 PM   #3395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbarron
I keep hearing it, T2 vs TC4. I am just stubborn or cheap or something. Thanks for the advice. I think I remember you posting on the TC4 thread. All the good advice on the TC4 thread has pretty much dried up. It should not be a suprise though. More and more, no one is running the car. Most of the club guys at my track switched to a T2 last week. The only TC4s left running are BMI cars. Even then lap times are a few tenths off of RDXs and T2s. It would seem the TC4 chassis is not on par with the new euro cars, judging by local lap times.

Would the T2 work as well on rubber tires too?
I have heard it does work with rubber tires well. I just could not get the TC4 to work. I was always about .5 off of the leaders. I am now with the leaders in lap times.

I noticed you are interested in decals. Check out your post.
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:09 PM   #3396
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i just ran my new T2 and had a TC3 for foam 19 turn in practice...i guess we'll see how it goes in racing on sunday
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Old 02-24-2006, 10:46 PM   #3397
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well guys the BMI T2 xray is ready for tommorow i just finished the car an will be running it tommorow early ill have the laptop at the track so ill post some info as i get some packs through the car
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Old 02-24-2006, 10:46 PM   #3398
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heres some pics
Attached Thumbnails
NEW XRAY T2-picture-026.jpg   NEW XRAY T2-picture-022.jpg   NEW XRAY T2-picture-023.jpg   NEW XRAY T2-picture-027.jpg  
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:09 AM   #3399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbarron
I keep hearing it, T2 vs TC4. I am just stubborn or cheap or something. Thanks for the advice. I think I remember you posting on the TC4 thread. All the good advice on the TC4 thread has pretty much dried up. It should not be a suprise though. More and more, no one is running the car. Most of the club guys at my track switched to a T2 last week. The only TC4s left running are BMI cars. Even then lap times are a few tenths off of RDXs and T2s. It would seem the TC4 chassis is not on par with the new euro cars, judging by local lap times.

Would the T2 work as well on rubber tires too?
You must race at the same track I do... I was one of those people.
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:21 AM   #3400
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legend BMI!

ok, i fixed the clicking problem. i found that if i ran a small track width it does it.

NOW MY SECOND QUESTION IS;

i tryed reducing the track width front and rear with no washers on the roll centre blocks. unfortunately the front cvd's bind up, so the narrowwest you can go is the stock position. will Xray be bringing out a shorter front cvd so we can reduce the track width and run no washers? the setup book says a narrower track gives better response and grip, which is what i want.
...actually i lie you can run narrow track width with a one way but not a spool or a solid oneway
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:32 AM   #3401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
You can shim the front wheels so it fits. Team tamale made the new knuckles so that you dont need to shim it.
problem with that is shimming out your rims and/or running 6mm drive hexes instead of stock 5mm ones is your car width...

you can buy team tamale knuckles or you can litterally barely grind the inside of the wheel like .010 - .020 of an incha nd it will stop rubbing i mean they barely really rub at all stock heck if you really wnated to you could run them and and let a little wear in on the block but its not like the wheel wont turn cause its hitting it barely scrapes

IMO dont waste money buying an aftermarket part that didnt need to be fixed when it take little effort to essentially fix or no effort to just run it standard
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:32 AM   #3402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Swanson
problem with that is shimming out your rims and/or running 6mm drive hexes instead of stock 5mm ones is your car width...

you can buy team tamale knuckles or you can litterally barely grind the inside of the wheel like .010 - .020 of an incha nd it will stop rubbing i mean they barely really rub at all stock heck if you really wnated to you could run them and and let a little wear in on the block but its not like the wheel wont turn cause its hitting it barely scrapes

IMO dont waste money buying an aftermarket part that didnt need to be fixed when it take little effort to essentially fix or no effort to just run it standard
Thats not true you probably should buy it because it was scraping my rim on both sides one time and my car was acting crazy loose, but I X-acto knifed it and that fixed it.
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:20 AM   #3403
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Started building this am. Just a quick question while the CA dries .

On the diffs that come with the USA version, we dont get a Multi-diff. But do we get a one way? I think there is a Multi-diff in the package correct?

thanks,
scott
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:05 AM   #3404
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US kit only gets a diff nothing else..... the gent across the pone get the multi diff... I might be mistaken but the multi diff replaces the one way.... I think???


Has anyone else found the xray forums site down???? or is it just me
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:13 AM   #3405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottw
Started building this am. Just a quick question while the CA dries .

On the diffs that come with the USA version, we dont get a Multi-diff. But do we get a one way? I think there is a Multi-diff in the package correct?

thanks,
scott
The T2 comes with 2 diffs...you will need to purchase the multi-diff separetely.


The multi-diff is essentially both a spool and a one way..in the instructions it shows that by placing a pin in the assembley it becomes a solid-axle. It can also serve as a solid one-way, whereby both wheels will spin forward simultaneously. Last but not least, it can be a full-time one way..both wheels spinning forward only independent of the other.

Hope this helps....
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