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Old 02-13-2006, 03:13 PM   #3091
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What's the best way to shim the front wheels so they don't hit the steering block? I have a couple washers in there now and would like to upgrade so I don't break any wheels.
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Old 02-13-2006, 03:32 PM   #3092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
That's the kind of stuff I was looking to hear. Sounds like the 2 degree outboard toe might be the ticket anyways.
Thats what I run 2 degree rear toe in. I did move the shocks to the fourth hole.
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Old 02-13-2006, 03:35 PM   #3093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRKWNG
What's the best way to shim the front wheels so they don't hit the steering block? I have a couple washers in there now and would like to upgrade so I don't break any wheels.

Tamiya 6 or 5 mm locking hexes, I believe Xray has some comming out soon in 5mm
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Old 02-13-2006, 03:46 PM   #3094
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Thanks, ILL-Factor.
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Old 02-13-2006, 04:01 PM   #3095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joep
...i wonder why the very well skilled Jurai and his team didn't countersink the top-deck. The '05 deck was.

Can anybody shine a light on this?

I think this was answered earlier on this thread by one of the XRay guys. At issue was the thickness of topplate, because it was so thin, countersinking the holes would broaden the size of the hole so much that it would create slop in the holes. So, if you're looking to countersink the holes, perhaps consider doing it on a thicker top plate.

Also think of it this way. When using a countersunk screw, you must have enough material thickness to accomodate the screw head, otherwise is won't seat properly. So in this case, its likely that the top plate is too thin to use standard counter sunk screws.
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Old 02-13-2006, 04:49 PM   #3096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
I think this was answered earlier on this thread by one of the XRay guys. At issue was the thickness of topplate, because it was so thin, countersinking the holes would broaden the size of the hole so much that it would create slop in the holes. So, if you're looking to countersink the holes, perhaps consider doing it on a thicker top plate.

Also think of it this way. When using a countersunk screw, you must have enough material thickness to accomodate the screw head, otherwise is won't seat properly. So in this case, its likely that the top plate is too thin to use standard counter sunk screws.

Well, don't they countersink the 2mm chassis? I did this to my topdeck w/out any problems... It is very close to the edges for some holes, but works great... I didn't have any problems with tweak all week at the snowbirds, but I never ran without the countersink as I got the car built when I arrived....
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Old 02-13-2006, 05:05 PM   #3097
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I think it's also because some of the holes are so close to edges/corners of the upper deck, countersinking would significantly reduce the strength of the material in those areas and/or could cause delamination...
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Old 02-13-2006, 06:01 PM   #3098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joep
I don't wanna start the yes / no discussion again, but i wonder why the very well skilled Jurai and his team didn't countersink the top-deck. The '05 deck was.
I was thinking about posting the exact same question on the XRAY forums. I would also like to hear why they made that choice. I'm sure for a reason.
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Old 02-13-2006, 06:41 PM   #3099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Ok, here's a T2 question to keep this thread on track.

With the T2 you can adjust the rear toe-in two ways, inboard with spacers, and outboard with uprights. Does changing the toe-in inboard vs. outboard change the handling of the car? Or is rear toe-in simply toe-in no matter how it's accomplished (inboard vs. outboard)?
inboard toe will give you the toe in you need, but because of the arms angle it will NOT transfer weight forward as much or as fast. Toe in at the hubs with straight rear arms will help the car transfer weight forward under deceleration. I am currently waiting for the 2 degree rear hubs so i can take the 1 degree inboard out as i run on asphault and need the weight transfer. I have ALOT of rear droop at the moment to help compensate for this. It will lengthen the car a tad if you take the inboard 1 degree out, but you can easily remove the 1mm shim in the wheel base to compensate and move it toward the back of the car to compensate for this ( GOD i love this car ).
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Old 02-13-2006, 06:53 PM   #3100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin
The way I understand it is: with inboard toe, the hinge pin is at an angle (not parallel to the chassis) so it "binds" the suspension. With the toe outboard on the arm, the suspension operates more efficiently. When you sweep the arm back and put the toe outboard it also increases your track length. Does it matter? Ask the guys who are shimming one side different than the other to fix their "toe" problems. I doubt you'll notice, but it's always the little things that give you the extra .002 per lap that you need to win.
It should not bind at all, if the arm is free on the pin. The pin will bind a bit in the mounts, but it shouldn't spin there anyway. The arm should be free. So it doesn't matter what the angle of the pin is to the chassis as far as binding goes in that regard.....
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:07 PM   #3101
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There is a reason he put "binds" in quotations.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:08 PM   #3102
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Mike, DubYa, what the F*CK? It's only a hobby.

I won't be there this weekend to ring the bell, so I'll say it now, CHILL OUT and GET OVER IT! Shake hands and get on with it. No sense and raising a stink over "hacking". Hacking is part of racing, no matter what, some will stop and wait and some will consider it a pass, whatever. And just so you know, DW and Guy have both been there for me when I needed help.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:10 PM   #3103
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Back to the T2.....

I can run my T2 again, I got a knuckle today, lucklily the hobby shop had one.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:43 PM   #3104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard hudson
now come on dont hate. At least he is there and not in front of a computer wishing we are there

guy hood

10th stock G main

3rd sport19t F main
Not hate at all. Kinda' makes DaveW's comments stick - doesn't it?
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:48 PM   #3105
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I saw this pic of someones car on Pdubs websight. What top deck is it? and it looks like it is countersunk. I could be wrong though...http://www.pdubracing.com/Snowbird_national%20032.jpg

Also who has tried the CRC top deck? is it countersunk? Does it help with the tweak issue? Thanks..
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