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Old 02-03-2006, 11:54 AM   #2671
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Can someone show me how they are mounting their fan for the motor?

I got a heatsink with built-in fan but not really sure about the extra weight I have to carry for the heatsink....

Pics too big to directly post here.
Fan
Another

Dom

Nice setup, however one hit to the side and bye bye fan. I have the same fan and it seems to be fine in the stock position. If you notice the motor blows out the cooling holes and the fan setup in the manufactures stock position helps draw air out. Try temping the motor with different configurations to see what works best. Still the best $10 cooling system out there!

Here's my cooling:
http://webpages.charter.net/stone10473/T2%20007.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/stone10473/T2%20002.jpg
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Last edited by evostyle; 02-03-2006 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:10 PM   #2672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
The car may "feel" like it has more traction with a stiffer chassis setup as it becomes more responsive. The initial steering inputs will not be soaked up by the chassis flex and are more directly applied to the tire/surface. Therefore, with a stiffer chassis/deck the car may turn in quicker and cut a more smooth and faster arc through the corners. But if the car has a noticeable push with a flexible chassis, it should get worse with a stiffer chassis. It really depends on the rest of the setup though.
I think both of you guys are right......It is all depending on the set up though.
I'm sure once you change the top deck or chassis you may have to retuning in the car again.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:37 PM   #2673
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The reason the car pushes with a flexiable chassis is the steering input is absorbed by the chassis. A stiffer chassis gives a more positive input therefore less understeer. In that situation
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:44 PM   #2674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenthobbies
The reason the car pushes with a flexiable chassis is the steering input is absorbed by the chassis. A stiffer chassis gives a more positive input therefore less understeer. In that situation

Hey do u have a Track other Cycle Arts up there in Fresno.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:47 PM   #2675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evostyle
Nice setup, however one hit to the side and bye bye fan. I have the same fan and it seems to be fine in the stock position. If you notice the motor blows out the cooling holes and the fan setup in the manufactures stock position helps draw air out. Try temping the motor with different configurations to see what works best. Still the best $10 cooling system out there!

Here's my cooling:
http://webpages.charter.net/stone10473/T2%20007.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/stone10473/T2%20002.jpg
Yeah, the problem is I'm really using the fan for mod only. I don't run stock and 19T I usually don't use the fan. Mod motors don't have much of a vent on the can as stock or 19T motor so the sucking air out part probably won't work very well. My idea is to cool the endbell more.

I remember seeing Peter (Robindson)'s T2 with a fan on and I believe he just used a thicker piece of lexan and extend out from the top deck.

Dom
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:04 PM   #2676
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as previously mentioned, this is what broke.
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:09 PM   #2677
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Wow, that's a bad break!

I've previously broke my outdrives on my FK04 (but not as bad) prompt me to go with spring steel diff entirely. Although a little bit heavier, but worth the durability. Try to see if someone wants to get rid of their spring steel diff. You can see them once in awhile on ebay.

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Old 02-03-2006, 01:23 PM   #2678
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Default Track in Fresno

Right now Cycle Art is the only track in Fresno but there is a carpet track in Kingburg. The will be another track in Fresno in the future they are just going through the logistics right now.
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:32 PM   #2679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvt01
I have to admit that you have a point... But how do you know that both of the rear uprights are off? Mine is good on the right side - 1 deg toe and it is 0.5 deg on the left (with no extra shims). They use different molds for the left and for the right. It may happen that one is off but it is very unlikely that the other will be off exactly the same amount but the opposite direction... "DUH!"
BTW Xray says that the molds has been checked and found within tolerances. Why they would lie? If it is really the upright then they would be happy to change it (it would cost about 1$/kit for them ). Some guys stated couple pages back that it may be the bulkhead...



Chris, Xray discontinued the spring steel diffs.
I guesss I was thinking that the left and right uprights were symmetrical. I didn't remember having a L and R. So, yes then if only one side is off, then it is that upright. Maybe its the hinge pin hole in the ARM. They are symmetrical, and would give a larger difference between the left and right. I'll do some measuring on my stuff tonight and figure out where the problem is. Whether its the arms or the uprights or something else...
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:38 PM   #2680
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I have a left over springsteel diff .. PM me then we will see what I can do for you...
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:35 PM   #2681
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The LHS in my area just opened an onroad asphalt track so I bought a Xray T2 for my first TC. I've been running 1/8 and 1/10 offroad. I need some suggestions on a good body for asphalt racing.

Thanks
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:37 PM   #2682
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parts, parts glorious parts!!!


No rear hubs though........
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:37 PM   #2683
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I have a T2 for sale. You can find all the details here.

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...62#post2117962
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Old 02-03-2006, 05:05 PM   #2684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdmlsu1
The LHS in my area just opened an onroad asphalt track so I bought a Xray T2 for my first TC. I've been running 1/8 and 1/10 offroad. I need some suggestions on a good body for asphalt racing.

Thanks
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Old 02-03-2006, 05:22 PM   #2685
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Originally Posted by Art Jensen
Protoform Mazda 6. That is the only way to go!!
I agree
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