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Old 02-02-2006, 11:56 PM   #2656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadmaster
Ran mine tonight... felt great. Seemed to increase traction at both ends of the car. Steered more but the rear held on better without getting loose. Smashed a few walls and had no abnormal tweak issues.

That's odd.....stiffer top decks are designed to decrease the amount of flex thereby taking traction away...
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:00 AM   #2657
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have to agree .... seems odd that added stiffness increased traction.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:05 AM   #2658
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Originally Posted by cvt01
... or the hex or the pin hole on the shaft or both and the hub together
If the HEX was off, it would be off the other way if you rotated the tire 180deg...(in rotation) DUH! It CAN NOT be the hex. Think about it.....

The problem is obviously the rear upright, where the hinge pin goes through.. If the difference is only .75 degree between left and right, then the hub is only off by half that! .375 degrees. Because the hole being off is going to give more toe on one side and less on the other resulting in an increased difference between the two. Its probably only a couple thousanths off anyway.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:28 AM   #2659
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The reason the stiffer the car the better the car works is the chassis is staying in tweak and is staying out of the "Grip"equation, which means the shocks and dampning are aloud to do what they are designed to do as well as the roll centers. There a two books that ever car enthusiasts need to read they are by a great chassis designer name Carrol Smith. They are called Engineer to win and Tune to win. These two books are the bible in racing. All these people are trying to reinvent the wheel. pyshics don't change from big to little cars. keeping this in mind more than 75 percent of the people that write these articles don't know what they are talking about. Including alot of factory teams. Hudy if you calculate roll center and weight distribution, fit and finish is the only one that has a clue of what they are doing. That is why everytime they produce a car it is better than the next.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:54 AM   #2660
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Spare parts shipped today from RC America to hobby shops in the US!!!
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:35 AM   #2661
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Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Spare parts shipped today from RC America to hobby shops in the US!!!
Good news!

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Old 02-03-2006, 01:40 AM   #2662
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My Green Machine:

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Old 02-03-2006, 02:30 AM   #2663
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Can someone show me how they are mounting their fan for the motor?

I got a heatsink with built-in fan but not really sure about the extra weight I have to carry for the heatsink....

Pics too big to directly post here.
Fan
Another

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Old 02-03-2006, 02:52 AM   #2664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Can someone show me how they are mounting their fan for the motor?

I got a heatsink with built-in fan but not really sure about the extra weight I have to carry for the heatsink....

Pics too big to directly post here.
Fan
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Dom
I use the Cool-Can Fan which mounts from the top deck and does not have all the weight of the heatsink. It is a dual fan as well and works awesome. I will take some pics tonight and post.
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:21 AM   #2665
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:54 AM   #2666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenthobbies
The reason the stiffer the car the better the car works is the chassis is staying in tweak and is staying out of the "Grip"equation, which means the shocks and dampning are aloud to do what they are designed to do as well as the roll centers. There a two books that ever car enthusiasts need to read they are by a great chassis designer name Carrol Smith. They are called Engineer to win and Tune to win. These two books are the bible in racing. All these people are trying to reinvent the wheel. pyshics don't change from big to little cars. keeping this in mind more than 75 percent of the people that write these articles don't know what they are talking about. Including alot of factory teams. Hudy if you calculate roll center and weight distribution, fit and finish is the only one that has a clue of what they are doing. That is why everytime they produce a car it is better than the next.
While I agree that by reducing "mechanical" grip by using a stiffer top deck you eliminate torsion and basically make the suspension do all the "work" for you, it WILL NOT give you more traction. It may run better, more consistent, feel smoother,but gaining traction is certainly not one of its byproducts.

Good book recommendation though....
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:54 AM   #2667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenthobbies
The reason the stiffer the car the better the car works is the chassis is staying in tweak and is staying out of the "Grip"equation, which means the shocks and dampning are aloud to do what they are designed to do as well as the roll centers. There a two books that ever car enthusiasts need to read they are by a great chassis designer name Carrol Smith. They are called Engineer to win and Tune to win. These two books are the bible in racing. All these people are trying to reinvent the wheel. pyshics don't change from big to little cars. keeping this in mind more than 75 percent of the people that write these articles don't know what they are talking about. Including alot of factory teams. Hudy if you calculate roll center and weight distribution, fit and finish is the only one that has a clue of what they are doing. That is why everytime they produce a car it is better than the next.
They are great books for any racer to read and have actually been a large contributor to my understanding of chassis dynamics for the T1/T2.
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:01 AM   #2668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamButter
While I agree that by reducing "mechanical" grip by using a stiffer top deck you eliminate torsion and basically make the suspension do all the "work" for you, it WILL NOT give you more traction. It may run better, more consistent, feel smoother,but gaining traction is certainly not one of its byproducts.

Good book recommendation though....
The car may "feel" like it has more traction with a stiffer chassis setup as it becomes more responsive. The initial steering inputs will not be soaked up by the chassis flex and are more directly applied to the tire/surface. Therefore, with a stiffer chassis/deck the car may turn in quicker and cut a more smooth and faster arc through the corners. But if the car has a noticeable push with a flexible chassis, it should get worse with a stiffer chassis. It really depends on the rest of the setup though.
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:27 AM   #2669
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Originally Posted by JohnMatrix
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Cool.. coat the springs to .. that would look nice
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:46 AM   #2670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitCrew
If the HEX was off, it would be off the other way if you rotated the tire 180deg...(in rotation) DUH! It CAN NOT be the hex. Think about it.....

The problem is obviously the rear upright, where the hinge pin goes through.. If the difference is only .75 degree between left and right, then the hub is only off by half that! .375 degrees. Because the hole being off is going to give more toe on one side and less on the other resulting in an increased difference between the two. Its probably only a couple thousanths off anyway.
I have to admit that you have a point... But how do you know that both of the rear uprights are off? Mine is good on the right side - 1 deg toe and it is 0.5 deg on the left (with no extra shims). They use different molds for the left and for the right. It may happen that one is off but it is very unlikely that the other will be off exactly the same amount but the opposite direction... "DUH!"
BTW Xray says that the molds has been checked and found within tolerances. Why they would lie? If it is really the upright then they would be happy to change it (it would cost about 1$/kit for them ). Some guys stated couple pages back that it may be the bulkhead...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisP
...there is also the option of the Spring steel front diff if you find you are doing damage to your outdrives....
Chris, Xray discontinued the spring steel diffs.
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