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Old 11-25-2005, 02:11 PM   #1
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Default Best materials to get?

i was wondering what are the differences between CF parts and graphite parts.
what is best for parts like suspension arms, also, are there aluminum arms for TC3 and if yes, where can u get them?
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:19 PM   #2
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Its not a question of best, but what you want the part to do. Plastic is the cheapest but it is the softest, which means it will break less since it is softer, but with the tradeoff being the car won't be as agressive. When you want a car to steer or act more precise (a generalized rule), plastic isn't for you. Graphite is often mixed with plastic to make stiffer pieces which makes the car more responsive, but the material costs more to manufacture and is more brittle. CF is usually woven in sheets, and this is why you see parts usually flat and cut out as in chassis parts. CF is also very strong and light, replacing fiberglass and other materials. It can be put in a mold like fiberglass, but it hard to work with and can be expensive as well. For small parts that need to be stiff and have a shape, graphite is usually used. For a really stiff, lightweight piece, Cf is most often unusable. It really depends on the material and your final usage. Aluminum has its pros and cons too. Basically material choice is always a trade off.
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:33 PM   #3
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well I use my car mostly for drifting ( I just have one set of rims and tires right now, so...) on a concrete surface (garage drive-way) that has some cracks on which my tires hit and all the impact goes into the arms, that's why I'm looking for the most durable sups-arms. it's not for a compromnise in anything, all i want is to have arms i don't have to replace every some days cause mine broke one side after maybe 3hrs of using, other side followed within the next 2 hrs (I glued them back together, but I'm affraid they won't hold the distance...).
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:46 PM   #4
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nobody has anything to say, i ask for help and nobody really helps.
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milen
nobody has anything to say, i ask for help and nobody really helps.
Wow, you will get nowhere fast like that.
Just stick around, people will answer. Remember, its the holidays. A bunch of people are out or busy with family.
If your breaking plastics arms, then graphite arms will break even quicker. I'm sure you can billet the car out, but you will only transfer the shock elsewhere. For instance, if you had aluminum arms, you wouldn't break the arm, but the force would just transfer higher and break something else. Something more expensive than arms.
Sounds like you need to go even softer, not stiffer.
Try boiling your plastic arms in water before using them. This will make them softer and harder to break.
We used to do it with our Pro4 gears before the second versions came out. However, even those were prone to breaking.
If you boil your plastic arms and they are still breaking, then you really need to find a better place to drift.
Most sedans nowadays are meant for smooth tracks. Drifting is even worse, you need a super smooth track for best results. I know some guys using tennis courts.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:37 AM   #6
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Old 11-27-2005, 07:52 AM   #7
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Well, I'm sorry guys, I didn't realize that some ppl r in holidays (for me college is going on until the 17th), and I didn't like some guys, yell like 10 mins l8r that nobody replies, I gave it more than 24hrs. Also, I posted that reply, 'cause I think if ppl see that nothing has changed, why go check out the posts on the second page, so I replied to it to bring it back to the first page. Maybe I didn't explain myself the best, 'cause it's not the arm in itself the breaks, but the part where the hub-carrier screw goes through the arm, right at the wheels. they are glued and taped right now (thanks to the breaking of that part, I lost the little washer toincrease or decrease the wheelbase).
Here take a look at this pic, the red circle shows what exactly broke.
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:09 AM   #8
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the most durable material IMO is the nylon, rpm makes these arms for monster trucks. ive seen some alumunum arms bent. best bet would be to stay away from the walls as possible
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milen
Well, I'm sorry guys, I didn't realize that some ppl r in holidays (for me college is going on until the 17th), and I didn't like some guys, yell like 10 mins l8r that nobody replies, I gave it more than 24hrs. Also, I posted that reply, 'cause I think if ppl see that nothing has changed, why go check out the posts on the second page, so I replied to it to bring it back to the first page. Maybe I didn't explain myself the best, 'cause it's not the arm in itself the breaks, but the part where the hub-carrier screw goes through the arm, right at the wheels. they are glued and taped right now (thanks to the breaking of that part, I lost the little washer toincrease or decrease the wheelbase).
Here take a look at this pic, the red circle shows what exactly broke.
I could be wrong, but those look like the graphite arms.
I don't know if AE makes plastic arms, but I would use those if possible. Again, for more durability, try boiling them in water first.
If that fails, just get the aluminum ones. However, you may start breaking the C hubs when you do that. Also, as mentioned, the aluminum ones will bend if hit hard enough. Then your out a lot more money than buying a bunch of plastic arms.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:14 PM   #10
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you are right, those are the graphite ones, I needed a picture to show what i mean, that was the first i found. so you say that by boiling them, those little screw-holes won't break that easy, tnx.
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:33 PM   #11
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Yes, boiling your graphite parts will increase it's flexibility.
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