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Old 06-08-2007, 05:49 PM   #1186
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No worries! I will help, whatever I can.

When you have finished assembling the diff parts, You do this:
With the car's front facing down & the rear up, hold one wheel with each hand, and with your right hand, your fingers grabbing the the spur gear, try to turn the spur in the forward direction, without the tires moving along. This is how I ensure that there's minimal slippage in the differential.

If you can turn the spur gear, that means that there will be slippage. Remove the Right Hub and tighten the locknut again, inch by inch. Repeat these steps to get the right tightness.

New balls and plates tend to require re-locking after a few packs of runtime. This is because the balls are starting to sit into the grooves on the plates. It's normal.

Remember not to go too tight; you will damage both the plates and the balls.

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Thanks Alfie for the info about the diff...I will give that a try....
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Old 06-08-2007, 05:56 PM   #1187
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No worries.

Alfie




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Originally Posted by MD View Post
I think you're correct about the wieght of the axle for this car in the parking lot especially. I think in past years the fiberglass axles were best, because the didn't break as easily as the graphite and had a little flex. They were also reasonbly priced and light.

Thanks for all o your ideas, Alfie.
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:17 PM   #1188
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With the older pan cars it was recommend that the diff slip for the first foot or two. What do you use for diff grease?
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Old 06-09-2007, 09:01 AM   #1189
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I sent you the money Alfie. Sorry about the delay. My boss went down with Kidney Stones and I had to work late. I have to work the weekend also to catch up. So whenever the parts get here is fine. Thanks for all your help and look forward to the goods.
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Old 06-09-2007, 11:32 AM   #1190
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Well, that recommendation was for the balls to sit nicely into the grooves of the Diff Plates. That's why they recommended users to run a few rounds before tightening.

You can use that old recommended method or ours. It's the same. See what your preference is.

I use Tamiya Diff Grease, and only very little of it. Lubricating it with lots of grease isn't the cleverest idea.

Alfie



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With the older pan cars it was recommend that the diff slip for the first foot or two. What do you use for diff grease?
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Old 06-09-2007, 11:34 AM   #1191
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Hey Kev!

No worries. I have received it. Will send your package out on my Monday.

Do ask question, if you have any.
Alfie



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Originally Posted by bikedoctor View Post
I sent you the money Alfie. Sorry about the delay. My boss went down with Kidney Stones and I had to work late. I have to work the weekend also to catch up. So whenever the parts get here is fine. Thanks for all your help and look forward to the goods.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:59 PM   #1192
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A private project that's coming.

Some parts of it is new, some old. Still deciding on what to put to this project. The 3-Point Suspension is known to be excellent on the rolling of the chassis, allowing the car to roll upon cornering, and get back to neutral sooner.

Alfie
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Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car-dsc00212.jpg   Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car-dsc00213.jpg  
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:20 PM   #1193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD View Post
The Tamiya spur gears a very similar to the Joel Johnson magic gears that were out several years ago, but they had more diff balls. Those gears provided an extremely smooth diff, but the diff balls would easily fall out of the spur when you did maintenance.
Which color JMG spur are you referring too?
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Old 06-14-2007, 07:30 PM   #1194
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Default Alfie's project

Alvin is that a Kawada chassis? and Kawada 3pt suspension? Does it use a friction disc too? ~Ron
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:25 PM   #1195
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Hey Ron!

The front chassis is by Tech Racing. It was my last chassis before swapping back to the Tamiya Graphite Chassis. Reason being that the Tech Racing's chassis was warpped on the sides, where the battery compartment parts are mounted.

The T-Bar is by Kawada. It's still my favourite T-Bar, despite that Tech has their own version. I crashed my last Tech Racing's T-Bar into two in just 5 minutes, after putting it on. Yes. 5 minutes into the run only. That was costly.

The Kawada 3-Point Suspension doesn't require the friction discs at all. However, you will need to put the Damper Post onto the Upper Deck, so as to limit the roll and not damaging it.

To make it work, the stock upper deck or the Kawada or Tamiya Graphite Upper Deck is required. Tech Racing's Upper Deck cannot be used with the Kawada 3-Point Suspension Set.

The weak point about this Kawada 3-Point Suspension Set is the Graphite piece that is holding on to the shocks. My friend's car got "T-Boned" by another and that Graphite Mount cracked. Just have to be careful, I know sometimes, it's hard to avoid accidents. Nevertheless, he's bought his second set simply because he is very happy with this setup on his car.

Wonder if he would post his views in this forum.....

Alfie




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Originally Posted by keechracer View Post
Alvin is that a Kawada chassis? and Kawada 3pt suspension? Does it use a friction disc too? ~Ron
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:38 AM   #1196
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Default kawanda 3pt susp

What does the Kawada 3pt cost? Is this something new for 103gt or from back from the 101-103 era?
Also, are you using and lead weight to balance the car. if so where?
Thanks for the update. ~Ron
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Old 06-15-2007, 05:12 AM   #1197
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It's a new item for the F103 and F103GT kits, produced since last year end. It cost around US$38.

I placed 30g weights on the left side of the motor mount. Those weights have the double-sided tape on them, so it sticks alright.

Will post the picture later.
Alfie



Quote:
Originally Posted by keechracer View Post
What does the Kawada 3pt cost? Is this something new for 103gt or from back from the 101-103 era?
Also, are you using and lead weight to balance the car. if so where?
Thanks for the update. ~Ron
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Old 06-16-2007, 09:18 PM   #1198
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Here the picture of my F103GT, with 30g lead weights on the left side.

It has never fallen off. Just have to make sure that the tape is good for such application.

Alfie
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:13 PM   #1199
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Any suggestions for pre-mounted foams for endurance racing with the Courage shell? Shores front and rear? I'll take any suggestion.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:27 PM   #1200
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use rubber tires for endurance racing unless you want to constantly adjust the ride height. Just my $0.02.
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