Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car

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  • Quote: You can use damn near any spur gear out there, they are not Tamiya specific, only if you plan to race in a TCS race do you need tamiya parts. A few guys on here have said the Kawada, I think (NOT SURE) that the Associated, and CRC will work as well
    Spur gears are open for TCS, only if you go to the worlds in Japan do you have to have 100% Tamiya parts.
    I run the .04 Gears and have never had a durability issue. If you set the mesh right they will last a long time. I beleive that I had one last two outdoor seasons way back when.
  • The Tamiya spur gears a very similar to the Joel Johnson magic gears that were out several years ago, but they had more diff balls. Those gears provided an extremely smooth diff, but the diff balls would easily fall out of the spur when you did maintenance.
  • Quote: Howard,
    What TCS race will you be attending? I is there one in the Chicago area soon? I watched you at at the Trackside race the day after you built your car. I thought it got better as the weekend went on. I forget his name, but who was that guy that won the trackside race? He looked real fast. Why didn't you set your car like his was?

    If the're is a race comimg to the Chicago area I think I will by one of those f103gt cars and give it a try. Plz let me know.

    radar... ping...
    Thanks....yeah, I finished the car 2 hours before the event, then I overslept, took 2 hours to drive from Elmhurst to Wi, show up 30 minutes before the main, and used my 1st and 2nd heat as my 1st and 2nd run of the car (practices)...and my 3rd one did improved a lot...and I think I did pretty good for a new car that I have never deal with.

    Oh...the person who won that race is Marty Hageman (414MPH is his user name here @ Rctech), he is the F103 guru (original F103 chassis and their later model)..........he drives good and he has all the knowledge about this thing inside and out....of couse I wish I can copy some of his setup and motor tunning skill...but I have only limited of time, and I do rather enjoy the racing instead of pulling my hair and try to get this simple car more complicated.

    At least, he told me about the gearing (I was overgeared on the 1st run) and he told me about the BODY modification (cut those cool looking front spoiler off...I did not listen on my 1st run and I paid the price afterall...car was stuck onto the sandbag/dots once I hit those...LOL).

    I don't think there will be ANY TCS race here in Mid West beside Trackside....at least, no local track here (HNH, Harbor....etc) are interested to host any, so there are none in Chicago. I am planning to go to the North America Final @ the Tamiya Track for 1 last time (my 1st and last for sure @ that track..) And I am practicing my GT now [email protected] HNH and Harbor Winthrop tonight (carpet) and practice outdoor @ Leisure Hour Raceway @ Joliet. (Outdoor)
  • Quote: Hey Kevin,

    You got to have the spur gear adaptor to make the Spur Gear work for your F103GT.

    The reason for me to change it to Non-Tamiya gear is because I have 48 pitch pinions, no Tamiya ones.

    You can use the Kawada T-Bars for Asphalt.
    Hope it helps!
    Alfie
    I have the KARAHARA spur gear adaptor.....like $5 US (very expensive plastic o-ring..LOL)...it is just a little white plastic O-ring place it into any brand spur gear (fit Kimbough and Robinson) then insert the stock Tamiya spur gear bearing...it is basicly a adaptor to fit the bearing from Tamiya onto any typical 3rd market spur gear...

    As long as you are not over heating the spur gear...that adaptor is a good investment instead of buy the Kawahara special spur gear...

    That O-ring is very similar to the HPI Purple Spur gear...you can see a pic from TOWER....just white instead of purple.
  • Can you guys share more information about building the rear ball diff with 3 cone washer modification and/or with the Tamiya Trust bearing...?

    So far, I have kept my diff stock....it is a little bit too SMOOTH and a little loose to my taste. I have no trouble running the car but I have seen you guys mentioned 3 washer (instead of 2) combine with the Tamiya Trust bearing setup....I would like to try that..thanks.
  • Yeah, those are the adaptors to replace one of the 1260 bearings inside the diff housing.

    Regarding the diff assembly, I suggest that you tighten the lock nut so that the diff rings just lightly touching the balls, without any slippages. Do a few test to get the best results.

    Alfie




    Quote: I have the KARAHARA spur gear adaptor.....like $5 US (very expensive plastic o-ring..LOL)...it is just a little white plastic O-ring place it into any brand spur gear (fit Kimbough and Robinson) then insert the stock Tamiya spur gear bearing...it is basicly a adaptor to fit the bearing from Tamiya onto any typical 3rd market spur gear...

    As long as you are not over heating the spur gear...that adaptor is a good investment instead of buy the Kawahara special spur gear...

    That O-ring is very similar to the HPI Purple Spur gear...you can see a pic from TOWER....just white instead of purple.
  • Hey Solara!

    Check out this picture.

    Hope it helps!
    Alfie


    Quote: Can you guys share more information about building the rear ball diff with 3 cone washer modification and/or with the Tamiya Trust bearing...?

    So far, I have kept my diff stock....it is a little bit too SMOOTH and a little loose to my taste. I have no trouble running the car but I have seen you guys mentioned 3 washer (instead of 2) combine with the Tamiya Trust bearing setup....I would like to try that..thanks.

    Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car-123.jpg  

  • Quote: Hey Solara!

    Check out this picture.

    Hope it helps!
    Alfie
    Thanks Alfie....that diagram really help. However, question back to you...I think I did something like that awhile ago (just the heck of it)...am I suppose to replace the ball bearing (On manuel, step 16, ball bearing item MD3 - the most outer ball bearing, with the trust bearing...then the 3 cone washer..?

    Just want to make sure...cause I know for sure, the shaft is not LONG enough to place the trust bearing and WITH the MD3 ball bearing and the 3 washers, the spacer and the end nut...
  • Hey Solara!

    Just remove the 1150 bearing from the diff housing and replace it with the thrust bearing and thick washers (on both sides of the thrust bearing).

    After which, place those tapered washers into position as illustrated.

    Also, do make sure that the nylon material built-into the lock nut (at the end of the assembly) must be new, if not good and tight. Otherwise you will get it loose in no time. And if you use a low gear ratio, you will also risk loosening the locknut as there's too much torque.

    Hope all these helps!
    Alfie


    Quote: Thanks Alfie....that diagram really help. However, question back to you...I think I did something like that awhile ago (just the heck of it)...am I suppose to replace the ball bearing (On manuel, step 16, ball bearing item MD3 - the most outer ball bearing, with the trust bearing...then the 3 cone washer..?

    Just want to make sure...cause I know for sure, the shaft is not LONG enough to place the trust bearing and WITH the MD3 ball bearing and the 3 washers, the spacer and the end nut...
  • In the older pan cars and the Trinity Street Spec, it was recommended to use a nylon nut rather than the metal with the nylon insert. If you took a real hard hit with the weight of the metal axle, the metal nut would sometimes strip the threads on the axle. The nylon would have to be replaced often but the axle was preserved.

    Have you ever bent the rear axle on the F103gt?
  • Basically those rear shaft and hubs do bend when some cars hit mine or when I crashed into the side of the curbs at high speed. That was when I hadn't got used to the speed and handling some time back.

    I am careful with my GT now, and tend to keep my car off the curbs to save some bucks. Though the parts are affordable on this car, but saving on money for spares in terms of replacements for worn ones is still a better idea. No point crashing out and burning some banknotes.

    The Nylon Nut idea is good, but in terms of a Tourer's wheels and tires that added to the stress level of those shafts on the rear end, I think it's only natural that something's gotta give. Pan cars are on foams, so the absorption upon impact is better.

    I remember when I was running my RC10L3 Touring with Foams one day and I didn't see a cyclist coming my car's way, it strucked into the front wheel of the bicycle. The cyclist went over my RC10L3, with both wheels. Nothing broke. I picked up my car and found a bent Rear Graphite Shaft.

    Alfie



    Quote: In the older pan cars and the Trinity Street Spec, it was recommended to use a nylon nut rather than the metal with the nylon insert. If you took a real hard hit with the weight of the metal axle, the metal nut would sometimes strip the threads on the axle. The nylon would have to be replaced often but the axle was preserved.

    Have you ever bent the rear axle on the F103gt?
  • I have just begun to build my f103gt. The Tamiya rear shaft may be better than the steel shaft of the Street Spec. When we ran oval on carpet with the Street Spec it wasn't unusual to come away from a crash with a bent rear shaft. I was always suprised at this. We also went through bearings carrying the rear shaft at a fast rate.
  • Hey MD,

    Just remember not to be tempted by those "Blinged" rear shafts. I have seen and experienced all sorts of nonsense. Titanium bends, but slightly harder than aluminium ones. Carbon will break like chopsticks, upon hard impact.

    The steel ones are still the best. Their weight also help to keep the rear end of the car down.

    Alfie


    Quote: I have just begun to build my f103gt. The Tamiya rear shaft may be better than the steel shaft of the Street Spec. When we ran oval on carpet with the Street Spec it wasn't unusual to come away from a crash with a bent rear shaft. I was always suprised at this. We also went through bearings carrying the rear shaft at a fast rate.
  • Thanks Alfie for the info about the diff...I will give that a try....
  • I think you're correct about the wieght of the axle for this car in the parking lot especially. I think in past years the fiberglass axles were best, because the didn't break as easily as the graphite and had a little flex. They were also reasonbly priced and light.

    Thanks for all o your ideas, Alfie.

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