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Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car

Old 02-05-2007, 12:08 AM
  #871  
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I will be there from 11am -5pm.Call me!
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Might try a motor spacer...there is plenty of room in the pod for one and I do remember trying that myself back in the F1 days. Don't know who is making them anymore but there used to be some nice finned ones in various thicknesses.
That was my thinking too Gadget, I have a trinity motor spacer that I will put in during the next test session.
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:52 AM
  #873  
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whoops...double post

Last edited by RCBuddha; 02-05-2007 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:42 AM
  #874  
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Originally Posted by racenut123
I will be there from 11am -5pm.Call me!
John you coming up for the Seattle race?
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:42 AM
  #875  
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Damn! I'm seeing double again
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:46 AM
  #876  
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Might try a motor spacer...there is plenty of room in the pod for one and I do remember trying that myself back in the F1 days. Don't know who is making them anymore but there used to be some nice finned ones in various thicknesses.
Not quite the spacer you were thinking, but this Water Cooling device does have a small spacer between motor and mount.
Not sure if it is available your side of the water yet.
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer
John you coming up for the Seattle race?
Looks like it. Is there gonna be an f103gt class?
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:19 AM
  #878  
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Originally Posted by racenut123
Looks like it. Is there gonna be an f103gt class?
sent you a PM
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MrBlack
it's awesome to hear how many people are into this style of DD touring car. I have been running mine with a 23 Stock motor and a 4800 Orion LiPo at Tamiya weekly and can easily hang with drivers running Mod/19T in Toruing cars. you have to be alittle smoother then 4WD Monkey cars but some of usd like the challenge of actually driving and not just steering the car.

I have running the kit box stock with the only hop-ups being aluminum shock, 80 weight and the old Red spring (the bright orangish one), I run the pivot screws at tamiya runing the ball diff is wortheless if you think it better I know a couple of F-1 national champs that have proven otherwise. I put the tamiya hard grease in the friction slider and I run the spring farely tight I also use aluminum spacers to make sure the diskes sit flat and not at an angle once the spring is tightened. For tires I run the RP 36's on the wheels the car came with with Orion med. Inserts (the tires seem to last forever. I put 1 degree of tow out in the front to give more steering. One thing many forget is you need to run an additional spring washer in the diff to get the proper action, this is an error in the instructions and is missing.

I don't run any sauce or any other tricks and the car is on rails my only problem is traction rolling from time to time.

The great thing about this car is you can set it and forget it. I run the Orion 23T Katana with the New V2 endbell with Enduro brushes, Li-Po 4800 Battery as long I do not break anything (I haven't so far knock on wood) so I basically get to show up charged and run most of the day without having to wrench or recharge it's awesome and what R/C should be, all the fun and working none.
I have been reading thru this entire thread to learn everything I possibly can about this chassis before I build and race mine ..... Is this comment about the diff that I underlined above something i should be worried about? DOes this mean I need to add one more spring washer? on the inside or outside of the 2 already in the instructions?
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Old 02-05-2007, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by shaggys40oz
I have been reading thru this entire thread to learn everything I possibly can about this chassis before I build and race mine ..... Is this comment about the diff that I underlined above something i should be worried about? DOes this mean I need to add one more spring washer? on the inside or outside of the 2 already in the instructions?
I built mine per the instructions, and having a had a full day of running, I had NO issues with my diff. Just make sure you tighten it so that the spur won't spin when holding both rear tires and the moving the spur with your thumb. That's how I've done my pan car diffs for 20+ years.
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Old 02-05-2007, 03:58 PM
  #881  
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Ditto here on the spring washers. I am running on carpet and have no issues with diff action or slippage.
Originally Posted by RCBuddha
I built mine per the instructions, and having a had a full day of running, I had NO issues with my diff. Just make sure you tighten it so that the spur won't spin when holding both rear tires and the moving the spur with your thumb. That's how I've done my pan car diffs for 20+ years.
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Old 02-05-2007, 05:26 PM
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Those saying that you need to put an extra washer for the diff, how many came in your kit? 2 or 3 or ?
Mine came with 3 and the diff seems ok.
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Old 02-05-2007, 05:43 PM
  #883  
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Originally Posted by alang
What tires and rims did you end up using? I tried some pre mounted Take Offs 22's and it was a bit loose coming out of turns both left and right.
Takeoff CS 27's...I will be switching to Tamiya B3's to get ready for the TCS qualifying race.
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:13 PM
  #884  
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder
Those saying that you need to put an extra washer for the diff, how many came in your kit? 2 or 3 or ?
Mine came with 3 and the diff seems ok.
Mine came with two, the "coned" part is supposed to face away from each other.

How does the third washer get configured?
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:19 PM
  #885  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
Mine came with two, the "coned" part is supposed to face away from each other.

How does the third washer get configured?

The 3rd one can be place with the coned faced face to face with each other.This will give you that spring effect.
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