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Old 09-15-2006, 09:05 AM   #496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alang
I just picked up one of these cars today and have yet to even really look at it but I did notice the rims saying +2 offset. When you tried the 24mm BBS rims did you get them with this offset or did you add spacers? Any other tips you would like to share on setup for this car would be great. Thanks.
Yes I used these rims without any spacers as they have the perfect fitment with the Courage body as is. I did however use RP36 tires and Orion Medium Inserts. The chassis with the Courage body and RP36 has a big improvement on grip (outdoor asphalt) from using a Mazda 6 TC body and Tamiya tires.

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We had a GT class a few years back for Pan cars up to 200mm wide, it started of good with Dodge Vipers, Corvettes, Camaro's, GT40, Honda NSX etc, but 4 months down the line the wedges appeared, 2 months later the class was dead, and we are just unable to revive it because they remember what happened last time.
This further proves part of my theory, that what was one of the best things about TC was the realistic looking cars. THis is now all but done now with the current "NASCAR car of tomorrow" looking body shells. The cars get less realistic > less people find them intresting > less new drivers to replace the one's that move on > TC dies. Yes it is really that simple.

The insane cost of an aluminum/graphite wonder bot along with all the gadgets to get your Batteriesnd motors just right do not help either.

"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."
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Old 09-16-2006, 03:14 AM   #497
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Default Cone washer missing in diff?

Mr Black

Earlier you were talking about a missing cone washer in the diff.

I understand I can borrow one from an old F103.

Where do you install the cone washer?

Thanks
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:20 AM   #498
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Finally got around to running my Courage shell today.
After running various GT and Touring shells I was still expecting the rear to break traction going in to the fast banked corner, but to my surprise the car was like on rails, it has never handled so well.
I ran with Sorex 32 fronts and 24 rears, a set up that was totally pants with the Dodge 3.0, but this Courage shell was the biz.
And the Orion LiPo pack (which has been in its box for 8 weeks since its last charge) ran a good 15 minutes with no performance loss.
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Old 09-16-2006, 08:48 PM   #499
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Ran the Courage kit on a drying track today...

A quiet car that handles...

What a blast! Plus the Courage body looks sooooo cool.

Any word on the release of the clear version of the Courage body?
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:05 PM   #500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slcf1


Ran the Courage kit on a drying track today...

A quiet car that handles...

What a blast! Plus the Courage body looks sooooo cool.

Any word on the release of the clear version of the Courage body?

TamiyaUSA told me mid to late October.
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:34 PM   #501
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Damn, was hoping to get that shell before the next big run at this nitro track

Big huge straights, great for openning up the throttle on a F103GT.

Are there any other good "wedge" shells for the F103GT?
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:42 PM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap
Damn, was hoping to get that shell before the next big run at this nitro track

Big huge straights, great for openning up the throttle on a F103GT.

Are there any other good "wedge" shells for the F103GT?

"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:54 PM   #503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Delgado
"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."
Unless I need to beat the other wedges out there
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:12 PM   #504
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Thanks Ed Delgado.

Let's see... hmmm... what do I have to work on before the next time I run the car.... oh. I'll adjust the diff.

We are going to run with this chassis in our 2h 45m Petit Le Mans as a one make class for "GT2". Then in 2007 it will become a Porsche Challenge Cup series. The Tamiya GT3 body is the best looking but just a little too steep and difficult to track down through normal channels. So it's the HPI Porsche Turbo 911 body for now. Teams of 2 drivers with one car running 90 min. with pitstops and driver changes. It's going to be sweet.

As soon as the clear version of the Courage comes out will add P1 to our endurance racing with Audi, Porsche Spyders, Pescarolo, and Dyson... Hello sportscar racing!

See you racing and not in the pits wrenching
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:34 PM   #505
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Talking Still have wheel lifting

Hi, Am I the only one running the f103gt to experiance inside front wheel lifting?. I am running inside at trackside (milwaukee Wis) on high grip carpet and this lifting can be kept to a minimum by only doing the inside 1/2 of the front tires with jack the gripper tire additive BUT should this lifting be happening at all?.
The car is stock (o ring on back and washer on front of t bar )supension setup ,excpt for heatsink motorpod side (Tamiya part) and Tamiya hop up shock 40 weight oil .Take off 27 tires are being used .I tryed the purple thick trinity grease for dampner but that dosnt seem to help either. Also I am running th 2005 nsx Raybrig body but I have also tryed the protoform Stratus with same results. I can live with it this way but the car would be a lot more fun with out the inside wheel lifting at all. Thanks in advance for your help, Oh ya I also bought the Corage Mugan kit to use for backup parts. I to am a little leary about running the body . I maybe will waiit for the march 2007 Tamiya race at trackside to run the Corage body , Hopefully there will be a class for these cars next year.
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:24 AM   #506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Delgado
"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."

Hi guys...What's about not running wedges??
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:58 AM   #507
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Are you slower because the wheel is lifting? Or is it annoying?

Usually 3 wheels have less rolling resistance especially on carpet. This could be that you drive more on the limit than others. Could also be a speed advantage.

In real Touring cars you see either inside front or rear tires coming off the ground all the time. Sorry I didn't answer your question.
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:16 AM   #508
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I have experienced the front wheel lifting issue before, it was so bad that my friends were laughing at my car in the sweepers

I'm running the ball suspension mount for the t-plate, but what u can try on the O-ring thing could be to tighten down on the screw for the O-ring to restrict the roll. Let us know if it helps
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:34 AM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Henzog
Hi, Am I the only one running the f103gt to experiance inside front wheel lifting?. I am running inside at trackside (milwaukee Wis) on high grip carpet and this lifting can be kept to a minimum by only doing the inside 1/2 of the front tires with jack the gripper tire additive BUT should this lifting be happening at all?.
The car is stock (o ring on back and washer on front of t bar )supension setup ,excpt for heatsink motorpod side (Tamiya part) and Tamiya hop up shock 40 weight oil .Take off 27 tires are being used .I tryed the purple thick trinity grease for dampner but that dosnt seem to help either. Also I am running th 2005 nsx Raybrig body but I have also tryed the protoform Stratus with same results. I can live with it this way but the car would be a lot more fun with out the inside wheel lifting at all. Thanks in advance for your help, Oh ya I also bought the Corage Mugan kit to use for backup parts. I to am a little leary about running the body . I maybe will waiit for the march 2007 Tamiya race at trackside to run the Corage body , Hopefully there will be a class for these cars next year.
I have tried running the Dodge 3.0 and the Cadillac CTS and both would see the car swap ends going in to the fastest corner if I didn't back off early, but the Courage shell allows me to take this corner flat and in total control, and it looks so cool on the track.
Only question I have is - why did it take me so long (5 weeks) to use the Courage shell
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:33 PM   #510
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My contacts at Tamiya say it should be ablout 3 weeks before they get in the clear bodies for the Courage.

Wedges are discouraged because many feel that the protoform wedge bodies are part of the reason 1:10 pan car died as the cars looked silly to newcomers and at the same time TC cars where being released and they looked much more scale which attracted many newcomers I knoe that is part of the reason I bought an Tamiya TC rather then a Toy car for half the price when I started as I wanted the scale look. ( also the reason i never got into off-road or as I like to call it "space buggy racing"

This along with the speed that was aparently too fast for many, drove current drivers away and intimidated potential new drivers.

I THink these same trends are killing TC now as many people again are looking for other options besides TC as they are too fast, too expensive , and look embarassing. (doorstops)

But I saw the NASCAR car of tomorrow and it looks just like a Mazda 6 Protoform body so who knows maybe we will see people excited about TC but instead of a Calsonic or Advan Scheme they will run a big 24 on the door and a Dupont logo on the hood and complain about right turns lol!
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"The solution is people need to spend more of their efforts on promoting and finding more people to race with, rather then a personal quest to form a class that they can win at."
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