Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car
#496
Originally Posted by alang
I just picked up one of these cars today and have yet to even really look at it but I did notice the rims saying +2 offset. When you tried the 24mm BBS rims did you get them with this offset or did you add spacers? Any other tips you would like to share on setup for this car would be great. Thanks.
We had a GT class a few years back for Pan cars up to 200mm wide, it started of good with Dodge Vipers, Corvettes, Camaro's, GT40, Honda NSX etc, but 4 months down the line the wedges appeared, 2 months later the class was dead, and we are just unable to revive it because they remember what happened last time.
The insane cost of an aluminum/graphite wonder bot along with all the gadgets to get your Batteriesnd motors just right do not help either.
"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."
#497
Tech Adept
Cone washer missing in diff?
Mr Black
Earlier you were talking about a missing cone washer in the diff.
I understand I can borrow one from an old F103.
Where do you install the cone washer?
Thanks
Earlier you were talking about a missing cone washer in the diff.
I understand I can borrow one from an old F103.
Where do you install the cone washer?
Thanks
#498
Finally got around to running my Courage shell today.
After running various GT and Touring shells I was still expecting the rear to break traction going in to the fast banked corner, but to my surprise the car was like on rails, it has never handled so well.
I ran with Sorex 32 fronts and 24 rears, a set up that was totally pants with the Dodge 3.0, but this Courage shell was the biz.
And the Orion LiPo pack (which has been in its box for 8 weeks since its last charge) ran a good 15 minutes with no performance loss.
After running various GT and Touring shells I was still expecting the rear to break traction going in to the fast banked corner, but to my surprise the car was like on rails, it has never handled so well.
I ran with Sorex 32 fronts and 24 rears, a set up that was totally pants with the Dodge 3.0, but this Courage shell was the biz.
And the Orion LiPo pack (which has been in its box for 8 weeks since its last charge) ran a good 15 minutes with no performance loss.
#502
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Burlap
Damn, was hoping to get that shell before the next big run at this nitro track
Big huge straights, great for openning up the throttle on a F103GT.
Are there any other good "wedge" shells for the F103GT?
Big huge straights, great for openning up the throttle on a F103GT.
Are there any other good "wedge" shells for the F103GT?
"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."
#504
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
Thanks Ed Delgado.
Let's see... hmmm... what do I have to work on before the next time I run the car.... oh. I'll adjust the diff.
We are going to run with this chassis in our 2h 45m Petit Le Mans as a one make class for "GT2". Then in 2007 it will become a Porsche Challenge Cup series. The Tamiya GT3 body is the best looking but just a little too steep and difficult to track down through normal channels. So it's the HPI Porsche Turbo 911 body for now. Teams of 2 drivers with one car running 90 min. with pitstops and driver changes. It's going to be sweet.
As soon as the clear version of the Courage comes out will add P1 to our endurance racing with Audi, Porsche Spyders, Pescarolo, and Dyson... Hello sportscar racing!
See you racing and not in the pits wrenching
Let's see... hmmm... what do I have to work on before the next time I run the car.... oh. I'll adjust the diff.
We are going to run with this chassis in our 2h 45m Petit Le Mans as a one make class for "GT2". Then in 2007 it will become a Porsche Challenge Cup series. The Tamiya GT3 body is the best looking but just a little too steep and difficult to track down through normal channels. So it's the HPI Porsche Turbo 911 body for now. Teams of 2 drivers with one car running 90 min. with pitstops and driver changes. It's going to be sweet.
As soon as the clear version of the Courage comes out will add P1 to our endurance racing with Audi, Porsche Spyders, Pescarolo, and Dyson... Hello sportscar racing!
See you racing and not in the pits wrenching
#505
Tech Rookie
Still have wheel lifting
Hi, Am I the only one running the f103gt to experiance inside front wheel lifting?. I am running inside at trackside (milwaukee Wis) on high grip carpet and this lifting can be kept to a minimum by only doing the inside 1/2 of the front tires with jack the gripper tire additive BUT should this lifting be happening at all?.
The car is stock (o ring on back and washer on front of t bar )supension setup ,excpt for heatsink motorpod side (Tamiya part) and Tamiya hop up shock 40 weight oil .Take off 27 tires are being used .I tryed the purple thick trinity grease for dampner but that dosnt seem to help either. Also I am running th 2005 nsx Raybrig body but I have also tryed the protoform Stratus with same results. I can live with it this way but the car would be a lot more fun with out the inside wheel lifting at all. Thanks in advance for your help, Oh ya I also bought the Corage Mugan kit to use for backup parts. I to am a little leary about running the body . I maybe will waiit for the march 2007 Tamiya race at trackside to run the Corage body , Hopefully there will be a class for these cars next year.
The car is stock (o ring on back and washer on front of t bar )supension setup ,excpt for heatsink motorpod side (Tamiya part) and Tamiya hop up shock 40 weight oil .Take off 27 tires are being used .I tryed the purple thick trinity grease for dampner but that dosnt seem to help either. Also I am running th 2005 nsx Raybrig body but I have also tryed the protoform Stratus with same results. I can live with it this way but the car would be a lot more fun with out the inside wheel lifting at all. Thanks in advance for your help, Oh ya I also bought the Corage Mugan kit to use for backup parts. I to am a little leary about running the body . I maybe will waiit for the march 2007 Tamiya race at trackside to run the Corage body , Hopefully there will be a class for these cars next year.
#506
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Ed Delgado
"Friend's don't let friends run wedges."
Hi guys...What's about not running wedges??
#507
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
Are you slower because the wheel is lifting? Or is it annoying?
Usually 3 wheels have less rolling resistance especially on carpet. This could be that you drive more on the limit than others. Could also be a speed advantage.
In real Touring cars you see either inside front or rear tires coming off the ground all the time. Sorry I didn't answer your question.
Usually 3 wheels have less rolling resistance especially on carpet. This could be that you drive more on the limit than others. Could also be a speed advantage.
In real Touring cars you see either inside front or rear tires coming off the ground all the time. Sorry I didn't answer your question.
#508
Tech Regular
I have experienced the front wheel lifting issue before, it was so bad that my friends were laughing at my car in the sweepers
I'm running the ball suspension mount for the t-plate, but what u can try on the O-ring thing could be to tighten down on the screw for the O-ring to restrict the roll. Let us know if it helps
I'm running the ball suspension mount for the t-plate, but what u can try on the O-ring thing could be to tighten down on the screw for the O-ring to restrict the roll. Let us know if it helps
#509
Originally Posted by Philip Henzog
Hi, Am I the only one running the f103gt to experiance inside front wheel lifting?. I am running inside at trackside (milwaukee Wis) on high grip carpet and this lifting can be kept to a minimum by only doing the inside 1/2 of the front tires with jack the gripper tire additive BUT should this lifting be happening at all?.
The car is stock (o ring on back and washer on front of t bar )supension setup ,excpt for heatsink motorpod side (Tamiya part) and Tamiya hop up shock 40 weight oil .Take off 27 tires are being used .I tryed the purple thick trinity grease for dampner but that dosnt seem to help either. Also I am running th 2005 nsx Raybrig body but I have also tryed the protoform Stratus with same results. I can live with it this way but the car would be a lot more fun with out the inside wheel lifting at all. Thanks in advance for your help, Oh ya I also bought the Corage Mugan kit to use for backup parts. I to am a little leary about running the body . I maybe will waiit for the march 2007 Tamiya race at trackside to run the Corage body , Hopefully there will be a class for these cars next year.
The car is stock (o ring on back and washer on front of t bar )supension setup ,excpt for heatsink motorpod side (Tamiya part) and Tamiya hop up shock 40 weight oil .Take off 27 tires are being used .I tryed the purple thick trinity grease for dampner but that dosnt seem to help either. Also I am running th 2005 nsx Raybrig body but I have also tryed the protoform Stratus with same results. I can live with it this way but the car would be a lot more fun with out the inside wheel lifting at all. Thanks in advance for your help, Oh ya I also bought the Corage Mugan kit to use for backup parts. I to am a little leary about running the body . I maybe will waiit for the march 2007 Tamiya race at trackside to run the Corage body , Hopefully there will be a class for these cars next year.
Only question I have is - why did it take me so long (5 weeks) to use the Courage shell
#510
My contacts at Tamiya say it should be ablout 3 weeks before they get in the clear bodies for the Courage.
Wedges are discouraged because many feel that the protoform wedge bodies are part of the reason 1:10 pan car died as the cars looked silly to newcomers and at the same time TC cars where being released and they looked much more scale which attracted many newcomers I knoe that is part of the reason I bought an Tamiya TC rather then a Toy car for half the price when I started as I wanted the scale look. ( also the reason i never got into off-road or as I like to call it "space buggy racing"
This along with the speed that was aparently too fast for many, drove current drivers away and intimidated potential new drivers.
I THink these same trends are killing TC now as many people again are looking for other options besides TC as they are too fast, too expensive , and look embarassing. (doorstops)
But I saw the NASCAR car of tomorrow and it looks just like a Mazda 6 Protoform body so who knows maybe we will see people excited about TC but instead of a Calsonic or Advan Scheme they will run a big 24 on the door and a Dupont logo on the hood and complain about right turns lol!
Wedges are discouraged because many feel that the protoform wedge bodies are part of the reason 1:10 pan car died as the cars looked silly to newcomers and at the same time TC cars where being released and they looked much more scale which attracted many newcomers I knoe that is part of the reason I bought an Tamiya TC rather then a Toy car for half the price when I started as I wanted the scale look. ( also the reason i never got into off-road or as I like to call it "space buggy racing"
This along with the speed that was aparently too fast for many, drove current drivers away and intimidated potential new drivers.
I THink these same trends are killing TC now as many people again are looking for other options besides TC as they are too fast, too expensive , and look embarassing. (doorstops)
But I saw the NASCAR car of tomorrow and it looks just like a Mazda 6 Protoform body so who knows maybe we will see people excited about TC but instead of a Calsonic or Advan Scheme they will run a big 24 on the door and a Dupont logo on the hood and complain about right turns lol!