AWK

iTrader: (9)

Could someone explain to me the pivot ball setup that people are using? I know what that would mean for my TNX suspension, but not on the F103. Also, what is meant by the ball diff being worthless? I don't know haw to run the car without.

Afro Puff

iTrader: (3)

This is the "pivot ball" suspension. Instead of the stock setup with the screw and o-ring, it has the ball that it pivots on. It's not like an actual "pivot ball" suspension. Also, the ball diff being worthless means they are running the car with a gear diff (I don't know if you can still find them).

MrBlack

The pivot ball has been long thought to be worthless and was rarely if ever used by any of the TCS F-1 Champs. The ball diff instructions provided in the kit is missing a cone washer which makes the diff slip like crazy this could be many people's problems and may have been done to make it easier to drive for the novice. I been running these cars on and off for almost 10 years so I was able fix this quick by putting in the extra cone washer needed and have run as fast as a 9x1 in my car with out slip issues but at that speed other issues arise.

Those with over pivoting front wheel lift issues two things will greatly help this , 1. thicker grease in the friction disks, 2. The Courage body it really settles things down.

For those living in the So.Cal area we will doing some kind of impromptu fun racig at Tamiya for these in the near future.

I for one hope Protoform does not release a body for it as it will be the typical melted poor excuse for a replica door stop looking thing they have for the other pan style cars (blech!) Since when is the green hous or cockpit 3 scales smaller then the rest of the car? I do know however that there maybe something else coming down the pike for bodies but I have already said too much.

ammo

The pivot ball mount appears to provide fine tuning for the flex and roll of the T-plate. Done properly, it will also serve as a limiter for roll of car, assisting with transitions. However, i'm still fooling with it, so it'll take some more testings to say for sure. Have anyone got good tuning methods with the ball mount???

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

With the pivot ball setup, thankfully there are a ton of F103 F1 racers at my track, so was able to get some clues on setting it up.

What I did was put two small screw in the front most pivot, either side (left/right, not front/back) to restrict the amount of "flop" on the pivot setup. Then using a tweak station adjusted the screws down so it car is perfectly levelled. I have put the carbon fibre top deck on my car, gives you full access to the front pivot.

If you want, I can take some pictures of the droop screw setup when I get home tonight from work.

I'm still working out setup for it, as it can be hairy getting power down. I noticed that some drivers of this car said there is a missing part from the diff, what is that? Does it help with controlling the power to the rear wheels, as my car is very snap oversteer happy unless you are really delicate with the throttle, and I am sure you can be more vicious with it, maybe not to the amount you can do with AWD chassis, but a little more.

Ben.C

[QUOTE=MrBlack]The pivot ball has been long thought to be worthless and was rarely if ever used by any of the TCS F-1 Champs. The ball diff instructions provided in the kit is missing a cone washer which makes the diff slip like crazy this could be many people's problems and may have been done to make it easier to drive for the novice. I been running these cars on and off for almost 10 years so I was able fix this quick by putting in the extra cone washer needed and have run as fast as a 9x1 in my car with out slip issues but at that speed other issues arise.QUOTE]


Think I would have to cannibalise another cone washer from my F103 F1.

I also play around with the pivot ball....That was crap! So much flex and it ruin my nice Graphite Chassis!!

slcf1

iTrader: (8)

A little off topic here...

We are going to run a 2hr 45min. endurance race in a month. It will be cooler with air temps being in the 50's to 60's. I can run foams with the GT and wanted some suggestions for a good base set up and tire choice. Obviously a good foam tire that will last would help or a good tire that I should expect to change after how long running on low wear asphalt? Preferably a pre-mount on a bbs or spoked rim.

Birky

iTrader: (1)

Oh no! Its started. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=20486
and more importantly why is there a nitro heatsink coming out the top of the body.

NiMo

They've had them for a while, originally listed as a 200mm Nitro shell.
You just need the club to enforce a maximum rear cut out height, something like 60mm when placed on a 10mm block, then a lot of the advantage of a shell like that would be taken away.

minijosh

iTrader: (1)

Anyone going to run a Courage shell? I want one just for that fact.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

i will..

And i hope a lot more bodies of similar detail come soon after...

But as Mr.Black has expressed.. NO TO THE WEDGIES!!.. I really hope that doesn't happen..

-O

NiMo

We had a GT class a few years back for Pan cars up to 200mm wide, it started of good with Dodge Vipers, Corvettes, Camaro's, GT40, Honda NSX etc, but 4 months down the line the wedges appeared, 2 months later the class was dead, and we are just unable to revive it because they remember what happened last time.

minijosh

iTrader: (1)

I had one of those Corally SST's or was it CCT? It was the 1/10 pan car and I had a 70 boss mustang shell. Just didn't handle well at all. How's the GT compared to those?

alang

MrBlack,

I just picked up one of these cars today and have yet to even really look at it but I did notice the rims saying +2 offset. When you tried the 24mm BBS rims did you get them with this offset or did you add spacers? Any other tips you would like to share on setup for this car would be great. Thanks.

Ed Delgado

iTrader: (3)

I did not use the stock wheels. I used HPI's TE37 wheel, 6mm offset in the back and 0mm offset in the front with a 1mm spacer. The wheels fill the fenders nicely. I hope to post some pics soon, lots of rain and little time.

The part #'s are:

HPI #3836 and HPI #3846

Looks good! Tamiya USA told me that replacement Courage bodies should be in stock by mid to late October. My replacement body will be a fictional "Calsonic" sponsored car, like the 350Z and Skylines.