92LikesTamiya Direct Drive Touring Car
05-15-2006, 06:43 AM
#376
Tech Master
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
its good to know im on the right track 
what about the rest of my questions lol surely those days cant be that long ago for you to forget everything :P
what about the rest of my questions lol surely those days cant be that long ago for you to forget everything :P
The F1 does not have a lock nut to bolt it down. The GT does not even have a trust bearing unlike the F1. So its a different concept. I could suggest is that you can get 1 or 2 more spring cone washers to you can tighten it down more. i've done that with my F1.
05-15-2006, 11:20 AM
#377
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by mtveten
I run my f103 on a smooth large parking lot track and it works just fine. Compared to a touring car the 103 has is faster down the straight but doesn't carry the same speed through the turns. Lap times with low power motors such as a silver or black can are faster with the 103 than a sedan but as power increased the car's lap times just don't fall as much as a sedan's do. At the large track I race on we have switched over to foams on the 103s to help put the power down with higher power motors.
If you race on a smooth track the F103s are great. The cars are cheap & durable with good speed.
Mark
If you race on a smooth track the F103s are great. The cars are cheap & durable with good speed.
Mark
Mark:
I've recently finished my F103GT and have some comments:
- the car is ballistic with 4 cell/ 19T.....less inertia, faster accel. w/o wheelspin and much improved cornering speed.
- it's easy to increase caster with a simple mod-- and it looks like the front susp was designed for this: remove the small nip of plastic at the front of the upper hinge pin carrier and replace it with several motor washers to restore the original length....now, to increase caster, move one or more of the washers to the rear of the hinge pin carrier and replace the upper A arm. this effectively moves the upper arm to a more rearward position and increases caster. I've found this to decrease initial turn-in, and nicely increase mid-corner steering.
-Add tweak screws to the O-ring susp by applying 5-min epoxy to the cavity under the front battery-holder/bulkhead thingy, then drill small guide holes thru the bulkhead and apply self-tapping screws thru this to just touch the T-bar.
- This car loves soft rear inserts and hard fronts--just like its F1 cousin.
- For those with a heavy trigger finger, a current limiter---- in the speed control, or the transmitter--- is a good idea!!!
- Simple car, Really fast with 6C silver can or 4C 19T.......FUN!!!!!!
bruce
05-23-2006, 09:54 AM
#381
That body should be 200mm wide and this is how 1/10 scale pan car with foam should look like!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
05-23-2006, 11:34 AM
#382
That body really needs to run the F1 tires under it.
05-25-2006, 06:24 AM
#383
Originally Posted by Burlap
I got the pivot ball rear end, and kinda wishing I didn't get it. I got the front spring set, so I can harden up the front end so it doesn't bottom out as much. I had a spare TRF shock, so that is on it, and so are the friction pads. I use the anti wear grease for the grease between the pads.
I have the aluminium heatsink, because it looks nice and is far better than the kit solution. The next thing I might get is the CF top deck, so I can get at the tweak screws easier on my car that I put in the pivots to stop them "yawing" too much.
I have the aluminium heatsink, because it looks nice and is far better than the kit solution. The next thing I might get is the CF top deck, so I can get at the tweak screws easier on my car that I put in the pivots to stop them "yawing" too much.
also does anyone know what hop up this is
Tamiya Formula Link Type suspension set Item number 53258
ill be spending most of my day tommorrow finding a good setup for the car with brushless and foams thats if i get my 64 pitch spur gear in time or if i can mod an existing spur for it to fit on the car.
05-25-2006, 09:00 AM
#384
The Link front end is the same front end that comes with the F103GT but does not have the spacer to raise the upper links enough for the use of the GT spindle.
The ball rear end from testing allows too much rear roll. It allows the rear to "flop" side to side alot easier. Our cars were 3 wheeling through the turns with it. If you are looking for traction you might want to look at using it. If you have a high bite surface I would stay away from it.
The ball rear end from testing allows too much rear roll. It allows the rear to "flop" side to side alot easier. Our cars were 3 wheeling through the turns with it. If you are looking for traction you might want to look at using it. If you have a high bite surface I would stay away from it.
05-27-2006, 08:14 AM
#386
Originally Posted by Difuser
The Link front end is the same front end that comes with the F103GT but does not have the spacer to raise the upper links enough for the use of the GT spindle.
The ball rear end from testing allows too much rear roll. It allows the rear to "flop" side to side alot easier. Our cars were 3 wheeling through the turns with it. If you are looking for traction you might want to look at using it. If you have a high bite surface I would stay away from it.
The ball rear end from testing allows too much rear roll. It allows the rear to "flop" side to side alot easier. Our cars were 3 wheeling through the turns with it. If you are looking for traction you might want to look at using it. If you have a high bite surface I would stay away from it.
took my car out today but unfortunetly my new sets of foams didnt arrive in the mail so i was left to buy a used set from the track off fellow racers and what i got was 42 fronts and 40 rears. the car was quite stable on power but suffered alot of understeer off power. i was running a stratus 3 body and ride heights raised all the way up and with the front caster mod.
cant wait to try the car with 37 shores all round with 26mm fronts and 30mm rears.
car is really fast running 104 spur and 21 pinion with a 6.5 gtb (although i think im over gearing it)
06-15-2006, 09:42 PM
#388
Sorry for jumping into the form and not reading back. There is a local track that is going to have an F1 class that allows any chassis, but you have to run spec motors. I think the F201 drive train will be too much for that motor, so I want to break out my F103. Is this car the same chassis and components? Thanks for your time.
06-16-2006, 09:04 AM
#389
F1 Fan not even close this car was the original F1 and the 201 is a 4wd car, gearbox etc. If they let you run you will prolly be limited to a Silvercan motor at most and you would prolly be very competitve.
Sorry missed the diffuser question above. It was for the original F1 car. It helps extract air from under the rear pod. On a real car it adds about 30-40% of total downforce. It aids the scale car but not q as dramatic as a full size car.
Sorry missed the diffuser question above. It was for the original F1 car. It helps extract air from under the rear pod. On a real car it adds about 30-40% of total downforce. It aids the scale car but not q as dramatic as a full size car.
06-16-2006, 05:01 PM
#390
thanks diffuser
also i think f1fan was asking what the difference was in parts with the f103GT and the orginal F103
i believe its only the front up rights have changed and the wheel hubs as it now allows the use of touring car tires hope someone else can clarify that for f1fan
also i've tried using 37 shore foams all round on my f103GT it helped alot on intial corner entry giving me more steering. but i do have to let go of the throttle alot early to get a nice tight turning radius. I think all thats left in tuning would be the body and truing the foam tyres down to a smaller radius which should give me even more steering. im gonna get that new f103GT body on rcmart!!! it just came out looks like loads of downforce on the front and much less drag for even more top speed!
also i think f1fan was asking what the difference was in parts with the f103GT and the orginal F103
i believe its only the front up rights have changed and the wheel hubs as it now allows the use of touring car tires hope someone else can clarify that for f1fan
also i've tried using 37 shore foams all round on my f103GT it helped alot on intial corner entry giving me more steering. but i do have to let go of the throttle alot early to get a nice tight turning radius. I think all thats left in tuning would be the body and truing the foam tyres down to a smaller radius which should give me even more steering. im gonna get that new f103GT body on rcmart!!! it just came out looks like loads of downforce on the front and much less drag for even more top speed!
