1/10 on road 13.5 discussion
02-13-2016, 06:15 PM
#1
1/10 on road 13.5 discussion
Hey all just wanting to start a discussion on 13.5 1/10 electric on road motors and speedies. im wanting to know peoples options on whats the best motor and speed control you have found and why heres a few things im wanting to know
with your motor and speedie match up are you running high temps to run at the pointy end of the field?
do you notice a difference in performance when getting hot?
are you running a lot of timing to get it at the pointy end of the end?
what's your options everyone??????
im running a 2014 xray with rubber tyres 71/34 still off the pace and motor is temping at 81 degrees.
im currently running a speed passion/trinity combo.
with your motor and speedie match up are you running high temps to run at the pointy end of the field?
do you notice a difference in performance when getting hot?
are you running a lot of timing to get it at the pointy end of the end?
what's your options everyone??????
im running a 2014 xray with rubber tyres 71/34 still off the pace and motor is temping at 81 degrees.
im currently running a speed passion/trinity combo.
02-13-2016, 06:43 PM
#2
LRP flow works and r1 ultra premium FTW.
Other motors worth considering is the team powers and D4 or 24k.
Make sure you at least run 1 x r1 fan or equivelant, 2 if you can.
Dont run and drag brake.
Yes running lots of timing.
What track do you usually run at ?
Other motors worth considering is the team powers and D4 or 24k.
Make sure you at least run 1 x r1 fan or equivelant, 2 if you can.
Dont run and drag brake.
Yes running lots of timing.
What track do you usually run at ?
02-13-2016, 09:03 PM
#4
I'm staying away from lrp never going back we have been through that many lrp speedies over time its not funny.
im right for fans got more than enough.
I've got a couple other speedies im going to test out.
ive only run at bayside since returning to the hobby.
02-13-2016, 09:05 PM
#5
02-15-2016, 08:43 PM
#6
Actually most current ESC's and motors will do just fine. It sounds to me like you need more advice on how to setup your gear rather that what get's hot and all that. Any motor will get hot when improperly used and you will lose performance when the motor gets hot. Depending on how hot will determine if it's permanent or not. If you let the magic smoke out, you got it too hot indeed. All motors and ESC's are subject to this no mater what anyone says.
The Hobbywing v3.1 has been very popular as well as the many other branding variations of this ESC. If you are serious about being competitive at racing, you will need a reasonable gearing selection to compensate fort track conditions.
As far as timing goes, it all depends on the motors "sweet spot". some are designed to work best with a lot of timing and others with relatively less. Does you track race boosted ESC's or "Blinky"? If it's blinky, you will need to set the endbell timing according to where the current draw is just under 6 amps unloaded. this has been a good rule of thumb that has worked well for me. Get a motor checker if you don't already have one. Hobbyking has theirs for about $60 USD. Once the timing has been set, you will need to work out the gearing. Typically about a 4.0fdr for 13.5 blinky on a smaller track. if your track is somewhat larger with a long-ish straight, you will want to run around 3.8 FDR. You are currently at about 3.96fdr based on the gears you listed in your post. If you don't know how to calculate FDR for your car, look up a gear chart app for your phone that specifically calculates FDR. Many of the ones I have come across focus on MPH. Those you can skip, they are not catering to racers needs. Every motor has it's sweetspot where it produces the most output to efficiency ratio. Ultimately a dyno would be needed to find this quickly and accurately but that's not very practical for most people. Give the 6A method a go and see how the temps factor in. Once the motor timing is set, there will be no need to mess with it any more. The rest is up to gearing and setup. Minimizing drag brake will also help with reducing temps as mentioned before. Many people tend to under gear and over time their motors thinking that this combination is the same as under time and over gear. It is not. All motors should be timed to extract the most from it's efficiency. Once you go over that point, it's all just wasted energy that materializes as heat. Try not to focus on the brand of the month. get good gear and work with it. I run the gen2 Trackstar stuff and I am just as fast as anybody at twice the price. If the gear is good and within the rules, all that's needed is to work on how to make it work properly. There is no magic recipe.
The Hobbywing v3.1 has been very popular as well as the many other branding variations of this ESC. If you are serious about being competitive at racing, you will need a reasonable gearing selection to compensate fort track conditions.
As far as timing goes, it all depends on the motors "sweet spot". some are designed to work best with a lot of timing and others with relatively less. Does you track race boosted ESC's or "Blinky"? If it's blinky, you will need to set the endbell timing according to where the current draw is just under 6 amps unloaded. this has been a good rule of thumb that has worked well for me. Get a motor checker if you don't already have one. Hobbyking has theirs for about $60 USD. Once the timing has been set, you will need to work out the gearing. Typically about a 4.0fdr for 13.5 blinky on a smaller track. if your track is somewhat larger with a long-ish straight, you will want to run around 3.8 FDR. You are currently at about 3.96fdr based on the gears you listed in your post. If you don't know how to calculate FDR for your car, look up a gear chart app for your phone that specifically calculates FDR. Many of the ones I have come across focus on MPH. Those you can skip, they are not catering to racers needs. Every motor has it's sweetspot where it produces the most output to efficiency ratio. Ultimately a dyno would be needed to find this quickly and accurately but that's not very practical for most people. Give the 6A method a go and see how the temps factor in. Once the motor timing is set, there will be no need to mess with it any more. The rest is up to gearing and setup. Minimizing drag brake will also help with reducing temps as mentioned before. Many people tend to under gear and over time their motors thinking that this combination is the same as under time and over gear. It is not. All motors should be timed to extract the most from it's efficiency. Once you go over that point, it's all just wasted energy that materializes as heat. Try not to focus on the brand of the month. get good gear and work with it. I run the gen2 Trackstar stuff and I am just as fast as anybody at twice the price. If the gear is good and within the rules, all that's needed is to work on how to make it work properly. There is no magic recipe.
Last edited by YoDog; 02-15-2016 at 08:55 PM.
02-16-2016, 12:54 AM
#7
Actually most current ESC's and motors will do just fine. It sounds to me like you need more advice on how to setup your gear rather that what get's hot and all that. Any motor will get hot when improperly used and you will lose performance when the motor gets hot. Depending on how hot will determine if it's permanent or not. If you let the magic smoke out, you got it too hot indeed. All motors and ESC's are subject to this no mater what anyone says.
The Hobbywing v3.1 has been very popular as well as the many other branding variations of this ESC. If you are serious about being competitive at racing, you will need a reasonable gearing selection to compensate fort track conditions.
As far as timing goes, it all depends on the motors "sweet spot". some are designed to work best with a lot of timing and others with relatively less. Does you track race boosted ESC's or "Blinky"? If it's blinky, you will need to set the endbell timing according to where the current draw is just under 6 amps unloaded. this has been a good rule of thumb that has worked well for me. Get a motor checker if you don't already have one. Hobbyking has theirs for about $60 USD. Once the timing has been set, you will need to work out the gearing. Typically about a 4.0fdr for 13.5 blinky on a smaller track. if your track is somewhat larger with a long-ish straight, you will want to run around 3.8 FDR. You are currently at about 3.96fdr based on the gears you listed in your post. If you don't know how to calculate FDR for your car, look up a gear chart app for your phone that specifically calculates FDR. Many of the ones I have come across focus on MPH. Those you can skip, they are not catering to racers needs. Every motor has it's sweetspot where it produces the most output to efficiency ratio. Ultimately a dyno would be needed to find this quickly and accurately but that's not very practical for most people. Give the 6A method a go and see how the temps factor in. Once the motor timing is set, there will be no need to mess with it any more. The rest is up to gearing and setup. Minimizing drag brake will also help with reducing temps as mentioned before. Many people tend to under gear and over time their motors thinking that this combination is the same as under time and over gear. It is not. All motors should be timed to extract the most from it's efficiency. Once you go over that point, it's all just wasted energy that materializes as heat. Try not to focus on the brand of the month. get good gear and work with it. I run the gen2 Trackstar stuff and I am just as fast as anybody at twice the price. If the gear is good and within the rules, all that's needed is to work on how to make it work properly. There is no magic recipe.
The Hobbywing v3.1 has been very popular as well as the many other branding variations of this ESC. If you are serious about being competitive at racing, you will need a reasonable gearing selection to compensate fort track conditions.
As far as timing goes, it all depends on the motors "sweet spot". some are designed to work best with a lot of timing and others with relatively less. Does you track race boosted ESC's or "Blinky"? If it's blinky, you will need to set the endbell timing according to where the current draw is just under 6 amps unloaded. this has been a good rule of thumb that has worked well for me. Get a motor checker if you don't already have one. Hobbyking has theirs for about $60 USD. Once the timing has been set, you will need to work out the gearing. Typically about a 4.0fdr for 13.5 blinky on a smaller track. if your track is somewhat larger with a long-ish straight, you will want to run around 3.8 FDR. You are currently at about 3.96fdr based on the gears you listed in your post. If you don't know how to calculate FDR for your car, look up a gear chart app for your phone that specifically calculates FDR. Many of the ones I have come across focus on MPH. Those you can skip, they are not catering to racers needs. Every motor has it's sweetspot where it produces the most output to efficiency ratio. Ultimately a dyno would be needed to find this quickly and accurately but that's not very practical for most people. Give the 6A method a go and see how the temps factor in. Once the motor timing is set, there will be no need to mess with it any more. The rest is up to gearing and setup. Minimizing drag brake will also help with reducing temps as mentioned before. Many people tend to under gear and over time their motors thinking that this combination is the same as under time and over gear. It is not. All motors should be timed to extract the most from it's efficiency. Once you go over that point, it's all just wasted energy that materializes as heat. Try not to focus on the brand of the month. get good gear and work with it. I run the gen2 Trackstar stuff and I am just as fast as anybody at twice the price. If the gear is good and within the rules, all that's needed is to work on how to make it work properly. There is no magic recipe.
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