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Old 12-20-2005, 12:10 PM   #61
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Why don't you just start a thread Jimmy?
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Old 12-20-2005, 12:10 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp
With Domination like that, I think maybe it time for Eli to "Get the F##K out of Masters"
But he's too OLD for stock or Mod. Actually he's fast in any class, but he likes beating up on the rest of the "Old Farts" like Skip, and you yourself sir.
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Old 12-20-2005, 12:12 PM   #63
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I don't know for sure ( this is the only Tbar car I have had), but I think it has to do with how the Tbar and center shock spring transfer weight on and off throttle.

If you use the side springs the tbar becomes a spring for bumps in the track and handling torque loads. With the addition of droop you are placing a load on the tbar kinda like preload on a coil over shock.

I am guessing on the above info so don't take it as gospel. Maybe someone on here with more tbar experience can shed some light on this in a better manner.

I had in my kit the gold CRC spring. It seems to work fine for me but Eli siad it may be too heavy for running stock. I also run the side springs because did not want to mess with tweek screws.

For me, this car is more consistant than the carpet knife I had. I've had no issues with the tbar breaking and it seems less likely to take a tweek after a crash. Of course if I had more driving skill the differences may be more apparent.
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Old 12-20-2005, 12:48 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastdude
Why don't you just start a thread Jimmy?

Eli,

Guess what I finally have for you?? Shoot me a PM ding dong!!

KE
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Old 12-20-2005, 01:06 PM   #65
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the shiney sliver spring is not the really heavy one its the stock associated sliver spring you should never run anyhting heaver then a blue spring on a t bar car. droop at the rear pod is more rear traction and it works in the bumps better most of the time i run .5 to 1 mm of rear droop . as fro t bar to spring car we can have this discussion for hours about a spring car killed everyone in clevland this year but look at the long term facts a t bar car has won way more races in the past. couple more things moving the batteries forward will not give you more steering it will give you less (less weight to transfer forward) stock racing is all about corner speed that is why i always run a .65 t bar in stock it lets the car move around with out scrubbing speed. side springs if you have to pre load them alot go to a stiffer spring and dont pre load it the car will be more driveable
here is my base set up with a t force using side springs

front
.20 front spring trinity purple and red lube mixed together on king pins
crc delrin top arms with 1.5 camber
10 degree arms mounts shims all in the back (max caster)
servo angled
crc steering spindles delrin .10 thousands shim under ball stud
jaco black front tires 1/2 compound with paragon flanged bearing on the inside of rim


rear\

.065 t bar
three screws
crc med fluid in tubes
30 wt oil in shock silver or blue spring
side springs white (bring collars all the way up then go 4 turns down and tweak for their)
batteries all the way back
jaco white tire full compound
max width 6.75
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Old 12-20-2005, 01:10 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Of course he believes it's better... I can't say one way or another since I haven't driven a Knife yet, but I'm sure it's a damn good car. However I don't think where the CK finished at the champs has much to do with the T-Fource being an inferior car and everything to do with the fact that that's what Frank would like team drivers to run. Had he wanted team drivers to run T-fources I bet the results would have been much different.

However if someone really believes the CK is a better car and has driven both it and the T-fource I'd love to hear your opinion on the differences between the cars, handling wise that is.

Thanks,
Ike
Heres my 0.02 cents on this. I have been driving a damn good L4 for two years now. I built a T-Fource for a friend and we struggle to get rotation, especially in fast 180's. I have been decently quick with my L4 as well. I even outqualified some darn good people with it in the last year. This is not to boost my ego-this is to show the competency level of the t-bar car. But I recently drove Beans 3.1 and 3.2r with adjustable chassis. Heres what i think. The 3.2's do every thing my L4 does, only its does it with less effort or driver input. They have great off power steering and lots of initial steering or cut. I have to drive my L4 to the apex. The 3.2 just seems to cut and get there.

I will be driving a 3.2 next year because I think it will be superior.
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Old 12-20-2005, 01:20 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Heres my 0.02 cents on this. I have been driving a damn good L4 for two years now. I built a T-Fource for a friend and we struggle to get rotation, especially in fast 180's. I have been decently quick with my L4 as well. I even outqualified some darn good people with it in the last year. This is not to boost my ego-this is to show the competency level of the t-bar car. But I recently drove Beans 3.1 and 3.2r with adjustable chassis. Heres what i think. The 3.2's do every thing my L4 does, only its does it with less effort or driver input. They have great off power steering and lots of initial steering or cut. I have to drive my L4 to the apex. The 3.2 just seems to cut and get there.

I will be driving a 3.2 next year because I think it will be superior.
I see.
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:51 PM   #68
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does anyone know what the front track width is on the t-force?
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