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Old 02-05-2003, 10:26 PM   #721
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Hi Every TB III owner,

Happy new year!

I have bought a shim for the one-way gear which produced by tech racing. It is a 2 mm thick ring which help fixing the front one-way gear into the one-way unit. After I install it. There is no more clicking sound that I have before even I press down the gear box cover all the way into the gear box. This make no more drag in the bearing and no more gap between the cover and box. The drive train is still as smooth as before. I suppose this can decrease the chance of gear stripping in any situation. I have never test it before but I will have a run in coming Sat. Hope that solve the stripping problem.
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Old 02-06-2003, 12:20 AM   #722
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Have you got a partnumber please?

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Old 02-06-2003, 12:38 AM   #723
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Yes if you have a part number and where you purchased it, that would be a great help
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Old 02-06-2003, 01:07 AM   #724
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Should be EV0001

You can check it in the web site :

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Old 02-06-2003, 01:19 AM   #725
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I have bought it in the shop opposite Control Center in HK MongKok
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:04 AM   #726
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I've asked around and it looks like Tech Racing have run out of the part so we may have to wait until they make a few more.

In the mean time shimming the one way with a very thin spacer between the left bearing and the one way is a possible fix. All it does is mesh the diff gear tighter against the bevel gear, reducing side by side movement.

It would probably do a similar job to the Tech Racing part, I'll test it out this weekend.
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:32 PM   #727
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Hi Hi,

Not sure they work the same. But in my observation, the part from tech racing seems to be a one way gear holder. It should be work like a spur holder. It center the one way gear in the unit and press the one way gear in a more even way. According to the description from tech racing, it keeps the one way gear away from bending. This make me wondering the clicking sound is coming from a bended and non-centered one way gear. And it causes the gear mash problem and make me cannot press the cover all the way down to the gear box. Since I have using this holder, even I press down the cover fully, no clicking sound down nor bearing drag are found. Before that, my one way gear trends to strip under head on accident. I suppose this is because there is a gap in the gear box. When the accident happens, the one way lose it position and strip the gear. So if ignore the clicking sound, press the cover fully may ease the case!

Do you guys have any idea??
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:45 PM   #728
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If you place the one way gear on a setup board you will find that it is not flat. Its slightly warped in certain areas. None of the spares I bought are tweak free, all have some warping.

Adjusting how tight you screw it in into the holder may help untweak it.

But if the rumors are true, Tamiya will be providing a fix for this soon. I don't think they can afford to ignore it seeing the Evo3's are selling like hotcakes at the moment.

Its also interesting to note that on the Japanese site, Tamiya admit to certain manufacturing defects (ie the gear case) but I cannot find a reference to it on the English site. Apparently the problem with the stripped gears is well known in Japan.

What I would like to know is if the second batch of cars Tamiya are producing will be less problematic.
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:49 PM   #729
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i'm pretty sure we will get some minior updates for the EVO to fix the above mentioned issues. i base this on the fact that nearly all of the TRF drivers for Tamiya have moved over to the Evo 3.
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Old 02-07-2003, 02:53 AM   #730
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This is a translation from the Tamiya web site on the problem

1/10 RC TB evolutions III
In installation of front one way and rear ball diff. being attached

Explanation drawing 10 in " the assembly of the body ", the occasion where one way and the ball diff. are set to the body front and back, it can designate the opening about of the 1mm as 1510 bearings and the A3 part. This is the opening with respect to the structure which is necessary in order to hold down the bearing with the A4 part.
Shaving this part, when it tries to be able to set the bearing without the opening, fixing of the bearing to become insufficient, because it becomes the tooth flying of the gear and the cause the gear licking, please avoid processing.

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Old 02-07-2003, 06:15 AM   #731
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Hey there guys just back from racing, the EVO so semi succesful, needs a lot of tinkering, handles like a fream but no speed

can anoyone tell me what the transmission ratio is so i can work out the roll out?
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Old 02-07-2003, 08:23 AM   #732
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Talking Stock or mod?

I have no problem with speed.You may need to check you rollout and the internal drive is 2.6 Also do not use the "c" block in the rear unless you need the traction and even then there is other ways to remedy that.Use the "a" block then it will help free the car up even more.

I think the translation is trying to say that we should not dremel the gear cases around the front bulkhead where the outdrive bearings seat.
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Old 02-07-2003, 09:57 AM   #733
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You know-I consider myself pretty knowledgeable about motors, rollouts-basically getting speed out of the car in general-12th scale, nitro, TC-mod or stock-and I couldnt get my EVO up to speed with good batteries and good motors and a new GT7 ESC.

I am starting to wonder if SOME of us have something wrng with our cars that is causing this. Maybe something in a gearbox or in the motor mount??? I am just throwing around ideas because its weird that some of us are saying the EVO3 is the fastest, punchiest car-even more than a TC3-while I and others are saying this car is SSSSLLLOOOOWWWWWW. trust me on this-people were laughing watching my car every time I drove it. "is that a 540 motor in there??"

Just one thing I thought of-since the driveshaft runs through a bearing in the motor mount-maybe if you dont get the motor mount perfectly perpindicular to the shaft-you bind the shaft which compounds itself when the motor is torqing on the chassis. Maybe some of you got it perfect and I and others tightened them down crooked????

BTW-I still have mine. I sent it to a experienced Tamiya racer who is going through it to make it fast for me-as I havent had any luck freeing up the drivetrain myself.
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Old 02-07-2003, 10:23 AM   #734
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1. Free up your car by taking out the pinion gear and see if your car rolls smoothly or is it binding.

2. Are you aware of your gear ratio? I know you are experienced, but maybe you have your gearing all wrong? I'm not too sure about carpet racing if it is any different from asphalt.

3. Replace those bearings. I already broke one. the shield came off and I found it floating on the shaft.

4. Make sure your battery pack is not touching the shaft. Place a large hard foam in between the holder and the battery to keep it from moving.

To help the one way gear from stripping:

Try replacing the 3 tapping screws that closes the gear box with same size machine screws. It will keep the gear box tightly screwed. The Tapping screws tend to strip.

Ad a bigger bumper to further help protect fron head on crashes.

This are really basic stuff but you'll never know!
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Old 02-07-2003, 11:13 AM   #735
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Ooohhh... I got envious of all this talk about the Evo III and finally got myself one (Thanks Steve!)...

Will start running the car tomorrow, and give updates if anyone's interested... (But don't count my 414m out; it's still getting better and better especially with the World's update.)

Just wondering, has anyone seen a review of the Evo III from any of the magazines? I'll see if I can do one...
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