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Tamiya TB-Evolution III


Old 05-10-2004, 08:58 AM
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Originally posted by markp27

............When do you go there?
The qualifying race there will be 7./8. August. Along with one gas car class!
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Old 05-10-2004, 05:59 PM
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Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
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Old 05-10-2004, 06:16 PM
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Originally posted by Evoracer
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
The Tamiya one is not so bad--it does get worn out over time especially if you crash a lot (I did). But just replace it every 3-6 month or so. It gives you the best fit. Otherwise some people in the track uses kimbrough (sp?) servo saver but it's smaller than the Tamiya one.
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:44 PM
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Originally posted by devil
blue sealed bearings. and how do you remove one side of a sealed bearing
Rubber sealed bearings can be opened too, their seals just stay in there in a little groove - no clips.

Either lift them with a knifeblade or if they're clean degreased a piece of sticky tape can do it too.
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:38 AM
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Originally posted by Evoracer
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
The Kimborough servosavers are by far the best. There are different sizes just look at their website http://www.kimbrough-products.com/
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:40 AM
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If its for the EVO3 just use the mid size #201. Works perfect with the EVO and Im using this one also. Comes with 3 adapters for different servos.
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:52 AM
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Thats what I needed !! Thanks V12 and jeffreylin. As usual...Tamiya drivers are the greatest.
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Old 05-11-2004, 09:47 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=3192864415

VERY CHEAP very good Kai Chassis on ebay for all interested

Start bidding now
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Old 05-12-2004, 01:53 AM
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can anyone tell me if the acer bearings physical spin (i mean take them out of the car and see them spining, when you spin it on your finger or something)or are they just very smooth
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Old 05-12-2004, 08:35 AM
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Funny that you mention those bearings. Yesterday, I received some Acer ceramics for my 415 (would have picked up some from speedtech but they were on holiday) and was a little disappointed. The rubber seals seem to contact both the inner and outter race and they did not have the fit and finish that was on par with the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I put a 5x11mm bearing on a spare axle and tried to give them a spin and they felt like bearings that were packed with grease. Smooth but not very free. I blew out whatever was inside and tried spinning them dry to see if there was an improvement but it felt just the same. I also repeated this with a 10x15mm bearings with the same results. Do these things need to be run in for them to free up? Granted, they are smooth, but it feels like they would have a lot of parasitic drag.

I think I may just use the famous Tamiya rubber sealed bearings for the upcoming race.
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Old 05-12-2004, 08:50 AM
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If you are interested in ceramic bearings I'd recommend a set from RC4Less. They sell grade 7 (Acer ones are grade 5 I believe) bearing sets for different chassis' for about $100 each depending on number of bearings included. Theses bearings are metal shielded and are too came packed with grease. But once you clean them out by soaking them in motor spray they are very free and smooth--a hugh improvement from the stock bearings or even the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I can now free spin my 415 drive train for a few seconds like you can do with a shaft car!

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Old 05-12-2004, 09:45 AM
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Jeff, isn't that because your belt tension is way loose? Last weekend when I shredded the rear belt, I took scissors and cut it off. I then spun the rear wheels for what seem like an eternity hehe. That's with the kit metal bearings. I'll stick with the Tamiya ones as I don't want to drop another bill on 16 more bearings.
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Old 05-12-2004, 12:01 PM
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I don't know Rod. The car runs fine with stock and no skipping belts etc. I tried with a one click tighter setting but the belt was so tight I had difficulty putting the drive train together. And when I finally did put it together the drivetrain was so tight I went back to my old setting (0 front and 1 rear).
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Old 05-12-2004, 12:25 PM
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Originally posted by rtypec
Funny that you mention those bearings. Yesterday, I received some Acer ceramics for my 415 (would have picked up some from speedtech but they were on holiday) and was a little disappointed. The rubber seals seem to contact both the inner and outter race and they did not have the fit and finish that was on par with the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I put a 5x11mm bearing on a spare axle and tried to give them a spin and they felt like bearings that were packed with grease. Smooth but not very free. I blew out whatever was inside and tried spinning them dry to see if there was an improvement but it felt just the same. I also repeated this with a 10x15mm bearings with the same results. Do these things need to be run in for them to free up? Granted, they are smooth, but it feels like they would have a lot of parasitic drag.

I think I may just use the famous Tamiya rubber sealed bearings for the upcoming race.
Hey Rod,
Yeah, I agree. The newer polyamide sealed Acer bearings are not as free as the old Acer Teflon sealer ceramic bearings. I find that I need to run them for a month for the seals to free up. It's all good after that.
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Old 05-12-2004, 12:56 PM
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Originally posted by linger
I find that I need to run them for a month for the seals to free up. It's all good after that.
Yeah Ling, that would have been nice to know a month ago huh hehe. Just kidding buddy. If I were running anything but mod and it was a big race, I'd run the Tamiya blue bearings dry. Yeah baby.
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