Tamiya TB-Evolution III
#5176
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Dont know if you have a special battery strap that uses the body posts, but Tobee Craft makes some battery spacers that would go where your body posts are and they are designed to keep the battery in place. Speedtechrc.com has em in their MR4TCSD Tobee Craft section.
#5177
I would highly suggest that you file/sand/glue the sharp edges of the battery slots. A long while ago when racers first got their Evo's, many packs would short out on the chassis causing some sizzle and battery fizzle. I know it's a pain but it's worth protecting your investment. Atleast glue the edges with a liberal amount of CA
#5178
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
how does having a spool in the front compare to haveing a normal diff like the one in the rear?
i got one in the fornt i made but no matter what i do or how tight it is it will always slip i think it might be becasue of the round F201 diff rings im using in it.
anyone else got this problem?
thanks
Tarnjit
how does having a spool in the front compare to haveing a normal diff like the one in the rear?
i got one in the fornt i made but no matter what i do or how tight it is it will always slip i think it might be becasue of the round F201 diff rings im using in it.
anyone else got this problem?
thanks
Tarnjit
The spools gives you a little push entering the corner and the steering of a one-way on exit and on power. A diff may start "diffing" if you get on power mid corner to hard. A spool is a lot easier to drive and is kind of fun to have because you can glue yourself onto people's bumpers and freak em out hehe.
#5179
yeah on one of my evo's i've had it done all ready, but on the other one (the one in the photo) i've just put a heap of CA on it
#5180
can somebody give me a good foam tire setup for the evo3 surikarn? it is for a fast flowing track with 2 quick "esses" in it. so it needs to be a setup that hasstable trasition of weight with the back end not kicking out.
thanks
thanks
#5181
Tech Apprentice
Re: My Cleveland Setup
VenomWorldOrder: try this.....
Originally posted by mcrisp
Back from Cleveland and someone was asking for my EVO III setup that put me in the A stock final. I have to say this car was perfect in my last qualifier, but my brain fade got between me and TQ with about 40 seconds left on the run - D'oh! .
In the main I gave my motor to troy from Fantom to tune and it was dog slow in the main. It was like I was running the Tamiya silver can 540 motor and everyone else was running the Trinity monster stock. I was able to do 11.7 and 11.8 second laps in the last qualifier and only managed 12.2 12.3 in the main, with the same setup and battery I used in the last qualifier. When I got the motor from Troy it was pulling only 4.5 amps at 2 volts. When I gave it to him it was pulling 11 amps at 2 volts. Oh well thanks to troy for his help, but I think I will stick to tuning my own motors from now on.
Here is the setup from what I can remember.
Front:
swaybar : Blue
Shock oil : 80 weight
Tires : Speedmind 35/52 shore multi compound
Springs : Assoc Copper
Camber : -1
Kickup/Anti-dive : None
Ackerman : agressive - connected linkage to hole on steering knuckle closest to the front of the car.
Ride Height : 5mm
UpTravel : 1mm
Shock Position : Outer holes on tower and A arm.
Wheelbase : The A arms are as far back as possible.
Diff : Normal diff slightly - a little more gritty and tight than the rear - I did not use antiwear grease as I have found the diff tends to slip more.
Toe out : 0
RollCenter : (low) I had the hing pin blocks on the chassis with no spacers. I had the upper links in the upper hole closest to the center of the chassis on the shock tower on the stock car (EVO III) and a 2mm spacer for the Mod Car (Surikan Edition)
Rear:
swaybar : Blue
Shock oil : 50weight
Tires : Speedmind 35 shore
Springs : Assoc Copper
Camber : -2
Anti-squat : none
Ride Height : 5mm
UpTravel : 1mm
Shock Position : Outer holes on A arm. Third hold in from outside on the shock tower
Wheelbase : one 2mm spacer from being all the way forward
diff : normal diff
Toe in : 1 degree (I ran the 2 degree uprights with the A block in the rear and the C block in the front)
RollCenter : (low) I had the hing pin blocks on the chassis with no spacers. I had the upper links in the upper hole closest to the center of the chassis on the shock tower on the stock car (EVO III) and a 2mm spacer for the Mod Car (Surikan Edition). I attached the upper link to the outside hole on the rear uprights.
Few! I hope I did not forget anything.
I used the same setup for both mod and stock and found it to provide a well balanced car. I also tried 1/2 degree of rear toe which helped the car not slow down mid corner but I changed back to 1 degree rear toe to smooth out the car in couple sections of the track.
Martin Crisp
Back from Cleveland and someone was asking for my EVO III setup that put me in the A stock final. I have to say this car was perfect in my last qualifier, but my brain fade got between me and TQ with about 40 seconds left on the run - D'oh! .
In the main I gave my motor to troy from Fantom to tune and it was dog slow in the main. It was like I was running the Tamiya silver can 540 motor and everyone else was running the Trinity monster stock. I was able to do 11.7 and 11.8 second laps in the last qualifier and only managed 12.2 12.3 in the main, with the same setup and battery I used in the last qualifier. When I got the motor from Troy it was pulling only 4.5 amps at 2 volts. When I gave it to him it was pulling 11 amps at 2 volts. Oh well thanks to troy for his help, but I think I will stick to tuning my own motors from now on.
Here is the setup from what I can remember.
Front:
swaybar : Blue
Shock oil : 80 weight
Tires : Speedmind 35/52 shore multi compound
Springs : Assoc Copper
Camber : -1
Kickup/Anti-dive : None
Ackerman : agressive - connected linkage to hole on steering knuckle closest to the front of the car.
Ride Height : 5mm
UpTravel : 1mm
Shock Position : Outer holes on tower and A arm.
Wheelbase : The A arms are as far back as possible.
Diff : Normal diff slightly - a little more gritty and tight than the rear - I did not use antiwear grease as I have found the diff tends to slip more.
Toe out : 0
RollCenter : (low) I had the hing pin blocks on the chassis with no spacers. I had the upper links in the upper hole closest to the center of the chassis on the shock tower on the stock car (EVO III) and a 2mm spacer for the Mod Car (Surikan Edition)
Rear:
swaybar : Blue
Shock oil : 50weight
Tires : Speedmind 35 shore
Springs : Assoc Copper
Camber : -2
Anti-squat : none
Ride Height : 5mm
UpTravel : 1mm
Shock Position : Outer holes on A arm. Third hold in from outside on the shock tower
Wheelbase : one 2mm spacer from being all the way forward
diff : normal diff
Toe in : 1 degree (I ran the 2 degree uprights with the A block in the rear and the C block in the front)
RollCenter : (low) I had the hing pin blocks on the chassis with no spacers. I had the upper links in the upper hole closest to the center of the chassis on the shock tower on the stock car (EVO III) and a 2mm spacer for the Mod Car (Surikan Edition). I attached the upper link to the outside hole on the rear uprights.
Few! I hope I did not forget anything.
I used the same setup for both mod and stock and found it to provide a well balanced car. I also tried 1/2 degree of rear toe which helped the car not slow down mid corner but I changed back to 1 degree rear toe to smooth out the car in couple sections of the track.
Martin Crisp
#5182
Can someone plz give me a good TCS setup for carpet?
thanx
Steve
thanx
Steve
#5183
Tech Apprentice
what kind off tires you using on carpet
#5184
Originally posted by fowlerJr68
Can someone plz give me a good TCS setup for carpet?
thanx
Steve
Can someone plz give me a good TCS setup for carpet?
thanx
Steve
#5185
Originally posted by gizmo
what kind off tires you using on carpet
what kind off tires you using on carpet
Steve
#5186
Tech Regular
So..... ok
next question, where can i get D cut diff rings?!!?!?!
Also from what i hear Spools have got so much good news about them, is their any dissadvantage to useing them? can you still brake? is it worth getting one?
thanks alot
Tarnjit
next question, where can i get D cut diff rings?!!?!?!
Also from what i hear Spools have got so much good news about them, is their any dissadvantage to useing them? can you still brake? is it worth getting one?
thanks alot
Tarnjit
#5187
Check the back of your evo3 manual, it should have the part number. Also, the diff rings are the same from the F201 Lightweight diff joint set so you can use those as well.
Spool/Oneway...it depends on the track and how you want your car to feel.
Spool/Oneway...it depends on the track and how you want your car to feel.
#5188
Tech Regular
cheers guys
#5189
Steering knuckles?
Do you guys run the c1-c2 knuckles as the kit states or do you flip them over??
Thanks,
P2
Thanks,
P2
#5190
Tech Apprentice
tires on carpet
fowlerjr68
did you run on that track yet ?? what did the car do?
if you using the A type try the use A harder insert in the front
en rais the rollcenter by at least 2 mm
clean your tires every run tires is 60% grip
let me no how it goes or went
greetz
did you run on that track yet ?? what did the car do?
if you using the A type try the use A harder insert in the front
en rais the rollcenter by at least 2 mm
clean your tires every run tires is 60% grip
let me no how it goes or went
greetz