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Old 08-27-2003, 10:04 AM   #3436
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Looking at your setup,how does that translate to the surikarn edition as far as camber positions and spacing?I also want to find out when checking rebound,how exactly are you doing this?Is it the same way we check for droop.I am confused here.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:12 AM   #3437
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I STILL haven't put my surikarn car together yet so I don't have any way of translating a setup to that car....woops

Basically, rebound stroke=droop, so I put down that value twice. Atleast on the sheet I did. I asked why there are two "rebound stroke" but nobody knew.

I measure droop with the wheels off the car and the chassis flat on a setup board. I use a ride height gauge to measure from the board up the lowest point in the suspension. This is typically the trailing edge of the rear hubs (not the arm..the hub sits a touch lower) and in the front, I draw a visual line straight down from the hingepin and measure the lowest point from that reference. I put little arrows on the setup sheet so you can get an idea of where I measure from.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:14 AM   #3438
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Rod, I'm sorry bro. I was in a hurry... I was wondering if you were one in the same. I remember someone congratulating you on here now that I think about it. Well good job bro.

5.94 FDR- wow!! You were rollin dat ho! lmao

I have a few questions-
-did you try this setup with no swaybars? Did you HAVE to have swaybars?
-did it seem a little mushy with the 400/300 shock oil? Would you have gone up on oil with more time to tune?

About the machined oneway plate- I bet that is pretty trick, but I believe the problem is not so much the ring gear (assuming you at least have the CF plate), but the EXTREME slop in the beveled pinion gear bearing seat. They called themselves trying to make it float, but the shaft can't hold it against the ring gear under a hard load such as you described. Hey, I have an idea- I'll PM you right now.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:20 AM   #3439
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Quote:
Originally posted by ARC MotorSports
V12 - any chance you could take a couple pictures of the one-way you are using? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
I do have one picture currently here. But its a protoytype and the attached gear is a a damaged one as the guy who makes the oneway had no other gear around at that time.
The final release of the oneway as the one sitting in my EVO3 looks much better also there were some changes for lower weight.

But what is the same with the prototyp is the position of the gear and the large backing plate so you can see how its working.

Im not sure if I have the time for making pictures before next monday as Im leaving in just over a day for the nationals.
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File Type: jpg oneway prototyp-evo 3 001.jpg (186.9 KB, 192 views)
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:55 AM   #3440
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That is very similar to the spools that we made for the Reedy. Dave Beale at TA makes a similar spool also. We still had the strip on a hard dot jump but reliability was generally very good
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:58 AM   #3441
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing

5.94 FDR- wow!! You were rollin dat ho! lmao

I have a few questions-
-did you try this setup with no swaybars? Did you HAVE to have swaybars?
-did it seem a little mushy with the 400/300 shock oil? Would you have gone up on oil with more time to tune?

Yeah, gear it for a moon shot and hope for the best!

I tried it without sway bars and it seemed to roll too much in corners and scrub speed. One thing I did do was change to a red sway bar in the front when the track cooled down a bit to get a touch more steering (that was the only tuning change I did during the Reedy Race hehe)

The 400-300 shock oil wasn't mushy at all. Combined with the 2-hole pistons and 2 o-rings and bled to have a little bit of pack. Along with Asc. Gold/Silver and mounted in the outter/2nd outter hole on the shock tower, the car felt very direct. I had other sets of shocks with 600-500 oil if it got really hot but never really tried them. The car was good on the 2nd controlled practice run and I didn't want to mess with anything else...just drive and work on motor.
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Old 08-27-2003, 11:17 AM   #3442
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Daaaaaamn, you have multiple sets of shocks already built? You really ARE my hero!!!

That's really good information Rod. Thank you very much.

Have you ever done a track comparison switching between the red foam thingys and the two black o-rings? I'm curious if you can actually feel the added rebound.

BTW- receive the credit- ROFLMAO
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Old 08-27-2003, 11:26 AM   #3443
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Thanks V12, that picture is very good. If you have time after the nationals, it would be nice to see the final version, but no rush.
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Old 08-27-2003, 04:15 PM   #3444
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Basically, rebound stroke=droop, so I put down that value twice. Atleast on the sheet I did. I asked why there are two "rebound stroke" but nobody knew.
I believe the second rebound stroke entry on the setup sheet is actually meant to be for wheel spacer thickness.

Tony
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Old 08-27-2003, 04:38 PM   #3445
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This looks like a nice option for the TBEVO3... MMMM back to the traditional BLUE!

49335 TB EVO 3 BLUE CONVERSION KIT
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Old 08-27-2003, 08:33 PM   #3446
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Which spring sets you guys usually use? when on high grip / low grip (like rubber on carpet), I want some opinion...thanks.
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:51 AM   #3447
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rtypec, the 2 rebound strokes on the setup sheet is a typo. the second one for each end of the car should be wheel spacer.
This is what suzuki told me at the uk reedy race.
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:10 AM   #3448
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jonny Boy
rtypec, the 2 rebound strokes on the setup sheet is a typo. the second one for each end of the car should be wheel spacer.
This is what suzuki told me at the uk reedy race.
Woops on the typo haha you figure Tamiya of all companies with a typo?

Wanna here what I was thinking it was for? And this is a total crack fiend idea...I thought it was the amount of uptravel the suspension arm had before the other side would lift when using sway bars. Did you know you can fine tune your swaybars by moving ball connector hooshmu thingy in and out? Further out should be slightly lighter and closer in would be stiffer...I think it also affects how direct they are. Okay, I'm a cracker haha
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:12 AM   #3449
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That makes total sense though....

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Old 08-28-2003, 11:34 AM   #3450
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Anybody know about the difference on the front uprights C1/C2?

Im just in the final preparation for the nationals beginning tomorrow. Now I noticed the front uprights at my EVO3 are not as in the manual being C1 for right and C2 for left side. I bought the EVO3 as prebuild by another racer and he switched them over so the C2 is on the right and C1 is on the left side currently.
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