Tamiya TB-Evolution III

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  • would WD 40 work to free the berings?
  • Re: Just got my kit
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Bubbasteponit
    Can someone please hit me with a good high traction asphalt set for very warm to hot weather.
    Try this setup. It works well for the conditions that you specified. Also, Charlie, if you see this before tomorrow, here it is.

    http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=371869

    Please change the rear downtravel measurement from 5mm to 6mm. The rear was a bit too lively off power when it was at 5mm.

    Also, the steering ball ends are on the inner-most hole on C1 and C2 for better ackerman.

    One last thing, if the car has too much steering going in, mid, and exiting a turn then go with a yellow sway bar up front.
  • Re: before getting kit
    Quote:
    Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
    i'm a electric newbie who has had a 2 year run in nitro. what option parts do i need for the surikarn edition evo 3?

    -are there different caster blocks which i can purchase what are the part numbers?(front and rear blocks ) (part numbers please)

    -also what gears and motor pinion gears do i have to buy for small/medium/large/extra large tracks?? (part numbers please)

    -what are the part numbers for the option springs and swaybars?


    i couldn't find any of it in the tamiya website


    Anyone?
  • Re: before getting kit
    Quote:
    Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
    i'm a electric newbie who has had a 2 year run in nitro. what option parts do i need for the surikarn edition evo 3?

    -are there different caster blocks which i can purchase what are the part numbers?(front and rear blocks ) (part numbers please)

    -also what gears and motor pinion gears do i have to buy for small/medium/large/extra large tracks?? (part numbers please)

    -what are the part numbers for the option springs and swaybars?


    i couldn't find any of it in the tamiya website
    I haven't seen any different caster blocs.

    The car will come with tamiya 0.4 pitch spurs (EVO3 had 3 x 96tooth and 3 x 90 tooth) it also comes with a 34 tooth 0.4 pitch pinion. You can stick with the Tamiya pinions all the way from 34 up to 53 (maybe a little higher) or you can get a 71 tooth 48 pitch spur and replace the 0.4 pitch ones with it, then just use standard 48 pitch pinions.

    The surikarn kit should be similar to the EVO3 and it will come with a full compliment of sway bars ( 3 fronts SMH and 3 rears SMH). It should come with yellow springs as well. The springs are the normal Tamiya touring car springs which you can buy in packs of 4 pairs and will include (soft to hard) 2xRed,2xYellow, 2xBlue,2xWhite.

    You should be able to get the numbers from Tamiya website for the pininons and the spring sets. They are just standard parts and not really specific to the the EVO3.

    Hope this helps.
    Tony
  • Re: before getting kit
    Quote:
    Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
    ...what option parts do i need for the surikarn edition evo 3?

    i couldn't find any of it in the tamiya website
    Are these kits actually shipping yet?

    If not... that'll explain why you haven't got the car's manual and the list of usable option & spare parts on the back.
  • June 12th is the date that R10 have for the Surikarn edition.

    Tony
  • Great job to Rod Canare for his win in the Open class spec at the Reedy TC Race of Champions.


  • Thanks Neil, now that I've been awake for a couple of hours, I think I'll eat and go take a nap again

    Also, the setup that I used is exactly the same one that I posted here a page or so ago.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by GTMilenko
    it only does it bad when turning and at low speeds. i drove it round it circles real slow and you can see the inside wheel pulling in and out.
    Not much you can do about it. This occurs on my EVO2 too.

    With the radio turned off, try turning the wheels to full-lock one side. Now look at the inside wheel.

    The rod (linking the steering arm and the knuckle arm) is almost straight inline with the knuckle arm (the knuckle arm will not turn anymore, even if you twist the servo further. You will only pull apart the link if you try).

    The knuckle arm is at its maximum throw, and at this point the servo cannot do anything to prevent that wiggling of the tire.. The only way you can prevent the inside tyre from wiggling is to reduce your steering throw so the steering arm can get some leverage on the knuckle arm, or to try fitting in some other knuckle arms.


    Hope the above is clear. Difficult describing it in words...
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by rough512
    Not much you can do about it. This occurs on my EVO2 too.

    With the radio turned off, try turning the wheels to full-lock one side. Now look at the inside wheel.

    The rod (linking the steering arm and the knuckle arm) is almost straight inline with the knuckle arm (the knuckle arm will not turn anymore, even if you twist the servo further. You will only pull apart the link if you try).

    The knuckle arm is at its maximum throw, and at this point the servo cannot do anything to prevent that wiggling of the tire.. The only way you can prevent the inside tyre from wiggling is to reduce your steering throw so the steering arm can get some leverage on the knuckle arm, or to try fitting in some other knuckle arms.


    Hope the above is clear. Difficult describing it in words...
    Right again rough

    I noticed this on My Evo II as well. I was a little concerned at first but I have not noticed it to be any real detrement to the performance. My car still kicks Ass
    Not much you can do to stop it as far as I can see

    Steevo
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by rough512
    Not much you can do about it. This occurs on my EVO2 too.

    With the radio turned off, try turning the wheels to full-lock one side. Now look at the inside wheel.

    The rod (linking the steering arm and the knuckle arm) is almost straight inline with the knuckle arm (the knuckle arm will not turn anymore, even if you twist the servo further. You will only pull apart the link if you try).

    The knuckle arm is at its maximum throw, and at this point the servo cannot do anything to prevent that wiggling of the tire.. The only way you can prevent the inside tyre from wiggling is to reduce your steering throw so the steering arm can get some leverage on the knuckle arm, or to try fitting in some other knuckle arms.


    Hope the above is clear. Difficult describing it in words...
    i think i understand, and it makes seens, i think, lol
    i took it out for a test and its running like a dream again, before it was oversteering hard and shaking heaps when turning left but not right. but with the whole new drivetrain its prefect again.
    but still vaibraates on the stand at low speed turning hard.
    thanx for the word up stevo!
  • TBe3's green driveshaft, there's 2 holes towards the rear end.

    Spurgear sits in 1 of those holes...

    what's the other one for??


    (just wondering if I'm missing something...)
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by WC
    TBe3's green driveshaft, there's 2 holes towards the rear end.

    Spurgear sits in 1 of those holes...

    what's the other one for??


    (just wondering if I'm missing something...)
    If you use a TB01 spur gear, the pin goes in the other hole.
    i think they are ok gears, pretty soft, but it must save weight on the driveline, cause you don't use the spurgear holder.
  • evo 3 carpet setup(foams)
    can some one help me with setup for foam tires on carpet thanks
  • Re: evo 3 carpet setup(foams)
    Quote:
    Originally posted by al jones
    can some one help me with setup for foam tires on carpet thanks

    Hope this helps

    I normally run stock monster geared at 33/96

    Front
    Tamiya Blue
    Yellow Roll bar
    Centre top shock hole
    Outer bottom hole
    Frt 2 hole piston 60W Associated
    Upper arm mount top inner (Nearest Gearbox)
    Jaco Double Purple
    Ride 5.5mm
    Spacers under mounting blocks Frt 0 Rear 1mm (Need to machine top off mounting)
    1.5' negitive camber
    4' Caster
    2mm Droop
    0' toe in

    Rear
    Tamiya Yellow
    NO Roll bar
    Centre top shock hole
    Outer bottom hole
    Rear 2 hole piston 50w Associated
    Upper arm mount top inner (Nearest Gearbox)
    Jaco Purple
    Ride 5.0mm
    1.5' negitive camber
    2mm Droop
    2' toe in (A Block on rear)

    Alan

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