Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I posted the same thing over in the radio and electronics forum, but I wanted to get the on-road group's opinion on this.

I run R10 or R10 stock speedos in all my cars—three off-road cars and one on-road car. Great products historically in off-road, but my 17.5 touring car is giving me fits.

With the most recent track layout change, we have a straight section that has a 180 at the end of it, and I just can't seem to slow down fast enough for it. Let me re-iterate that this is not a traction issue, no way, this is a max brake force issue. I've had to run my speedo at 100% brake strength and my epa/atl at 100% on the last layout and it was okay, but on this layout, I'm just rolling past one corner standing on the brake unless I'm braking way earlier than I should have to. I've tried the old trick of re-calibrating the speedo with my brake epa turned down and then cranked it up to 100 to try and get "more than 100% brake throw" to see if there was more brake past 100% when calibrated, but it made no difference. The speedo is definitely at 100% brake and the radio is properly calibrated for full brake throw. Unless something changes, I guess I just have to run a different speedo in on-road, probably thanks to the "special push brake feel" the orions have that is obviously an advantage in 2wd off-road, but is really killing me in 4wd on-road with super traction.

I remember running a castle and novak in the past and they had adjustments for brake frequency and settings that provided nutty amounts (i.e. useless) of brake, but it seems like with the R10, thanks to it's brake profile, I'm just SOL.

I don't have this problem in my 4wd mod off-road as I run a 6.5 in it and it has ample amounts of brake.

Maybe there's a firmware that provides more brake? Is that even possible? It's beyond frustrating that I have to brake so soon into this one corner to make it—It's like a full size race car with hot brakes... just buttery worthlessness in this one corner.

Perhaps I just need to get another speedo? Recommendations?

Wayne

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

check if you can change brake strength or brake frequency to make it stronger.

you could try replacing the capacitor for the esc as well.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

There is no frequency adjustment, and the strength is already maxed out in the speedo and radio throw.

The orions have a push brake profile that is optimized for 2wd off-road smooth braking and I think that's really the rub and there's no way to change it.

rcmart

Is your reverse force at 100%? I know it may seem weird that you don't use reverse anyways, but trust me it makes a difference.

Jezvegas

I ran the orion 17.5 with the R10/R10.1 and found the same issue with brakes!

its not the speedo its the motor, when I tried a different motor I had awesome brakes but the orion is terrible.

It works well in my wet car where im not carrying as much speed into a corner but have to run around 45% drag brake to get it to work.

Barry_Hughes

Different motors can have an effect on the brake, some seem to have more "braking" than others.

Govert

A few things to check:

Make sure speedo is in FOR/BRAKE mode. Not forward/reverse.

Second, make sure dragbrake setting is around 5%.

Reverse force 25%

Initial brake: drag brake

Start with those fiirst.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I tried going from 25 to 75 and noticed no increase in brake.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Those are actually the exact settings I run.

Govert

Did you calibrate the esc while your transmitter had 100% forward EPA and 100% brake EPA? (I think you did).

Second, do you use exponential on your transmitter? If yes, did you set it to 0% (forward and brake) while you calibrated your esc? If not, set it to 0% and calibrate.

Third, if you're using Sanwa: do you use ARC setting on your transmitter? If yes, set it to 0% and calibrate.

If nothing else helps as described by others above, create a new model profile on your transmitter and try that. Sometimes this resolves certain issues.

Gtr r34 m-spec

iTrader: (29)

Orion's don't have strong brakes with stock motors.

Not much you can do, or buy a lrp.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

I run the R10 Pro stock spec in my TC with no brake problems... When I first got the esc and used a spektrum transmitter I had to turn the epa on the radio up to 125% to feel it, but ever since I switched to KO Propo I'm fine at 100%. I run an ORCA motor in my tc. Maybe try a different motor? If the esc is maxed, I would say start looking into the transmitter. Does the transmitter have a drag brake or abs feature on it?

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

It does, but it's all turned off. This is a new radio profile too. I've tried recalibrating with low epas and then cranking the epa way up to throw well beyond where the speedo thinks 100% is and it really made no difference.

It's a trinity short stack d4. Maybe I should put the d4 maxzilla in instead!

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

Shorter gearing will increase braking. Try a smaller pinion and more can timing.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

If you want good braking, use the Sky RC stock motors or the LRP motors.
They got excelent brakes even with the Orion ESC.
The Orion motors have less brakes as have some Trinity motors.
A short stack motor is shorter in length yes?
If so, this explaines why brake is less.
For the Sky motors have a close look at them as there are 2 different type of stock motors with the same turns.

Regards Roy