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-   -   Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/904474-serpent-s411-eryx-4-0-a.html)

kaye7877 02-15-2016 10:31 PM

If you guys are using the 3.5/3.5 brackets up front, doesn't that make the overall width over 190mm. I seem to recall that using 2.0/2.0 with camber at 1 degree makes the front of the car exactly 190mm.

Bottom line, is going that wide legal?

spacendeman 02-15-2016 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by kaye7877 (Post 14392995)
If you guys are using the 3.5/3.5 brackets up front, doesn't that make the overall width over 190mm. I seem to recall that using 2.0/2.0 with camber at 1 degree makes the front of the car exactly 190mm.

Bottom line, is going that wide legal?

I believe they also used the -0.75 wheel hexes.
So then the width of the care is just good enough.

dan_vector 02-16-2016 03:04 AM


Originally Posted by Andy63 (Post 14391988)
I do it like this, fill shock all the way up, let it sit to get rid of air after i pushed shaft up and down. Then i push the shaft all the way up and then i put on bladder and then slowly put on cap while i hold shaft all the way in. Isnt this the right way?

You will probably get negative rebound doing it that way. I've tried Johnny's method but it is quite difficult to do without trapping air in the shock. Try the way I described. There are so many ways really just try them all and decide which is right for you.

Andy63 02-16-2016 04:13 AM


Originally Posted by dan_vector (Post 14393142)
You will probably get negative rebound doing it that way. I've tried Johnny's method but it is quite difficult to do without trapping air in the shock. Try the way I described. There are so many ways really just try them all and decide which is right for you.

Thanks! This is really one thing ive always struggled with is the rebound on the shocks hehe :P

dan_vector 02-16-2016 06:30 AM


Originally Posted by Andy63 (Post 14393183)
Thanks! This is really one thing ive always struggled with is the rebound on the shocks hehe :P

Yeah and to be honest the old SS serpent shocks were not the easiest to get zero rebound (positive or negative!). The new shock are MUCH better and easier to build.

Johnny Wishbone 02-16-2016 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by dan_vector (Post 14393142)
You will probably get negative rebound doing it that way. I've tried Johnny's method but it is quite difficult to do without trapping air in the shock. Try the way I described. There are so many ways really just try them all and decide which is right for you.

My method should expel any excessive oil or air in the system before the cap is put on, and this can be verified if your bladder is opec, once the piston is brought to the top and the ball wrench pressure is removed. This is like doing a normal bleed with the top caps on, but not tight and the piston brought to the top of the 3mm spacer. Be wary though that the top cap is a 2 part procedure, the plastic part is put on and located correctly into the bladder, then the screw cap is installed, I like to keep slight pressure on the plastic part as the screw cap is installed. with the new bladders, or using the Tamiya or Yokomo bladders this works well for me, if your using the old Serpent bladders with the square edge shoulder, there is no easy way to build.

I would agree with Dan though, try them all out and pick the one that works best for you, there a lot of them out there. :nod:

Dork Missile 02-16-2016 10:40 PM

how many years does a person have to spend on this thread to understand any of this? ;) i will continue to study and keep reading...

dan_vector 02-17-2016 04:20 AM


Originally Posted by Dork Missile (Post 14394624)
how many years does a person have to spend on this thread to understand any of this? ;) i will continue to study and keep reading...

A while... There is some good and useful info here! :p:p

axle182 02-17-2016 02:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I have been cutting a few Serpent 411 top decks for a few locals. If anyone wants one, I have two designs, and a few different thicknesses. Sorry for the terrible pic, its all I have right now. PM or email me at [email protected] Thanks!

Dork Missile 02-17-2016 08:43 PM

top decks
 
i have heard of the 3 different top decks...has anyone experimented yet with any of the others? i am told the 1.75mm is the stock TC deck to have. Any opinions out there? if i only have the 2.0mm top deck...i have also heard you can remove some screws to increase flex? which screws? :confused:

R3VoLuTiOn 02-17-2016 10:45 PM


Originally Posted by Dork Missile (Post 14395909)
i have heard of the 3 different top decks...has anyone experimented yet with any of the others? i am told the 1.75mm is the stock TC deck to have. Any opinions out there? if i only have the 2.0mm top deck...i have also heard you can remove some screws to increase flex? which screws? :confused:

bring the car over to my pits on Saturday, I'll help you out with it. :nod:

Andy63 02-18-2016 04:22 AM

I am pretty sure standard top deck that comes with ERYX 4.0 is the best choice for both carpet and asphalt. For carpet you might need to shim front part 0.1mm to change the flex.

jmoneym 02-18-2016 06:01 PM

What's the part number for the 3.5 front?

corallyman 02-18-2016 07:08 PM

SER401420 3.5 bracket

EREX_91 02-20-2016 02:37 PM

eryx 3.0
 
looking for aluminum chassis 3.0


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