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Team Associated TC7 & TC7.1 Touring Car

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Old 07-28-2019, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by proliteandsc View Post
We have a class that we can use any 24mm or 26mm wheel. Anyone know of a good tire that will work on a small asphalt track in a parking lot. We can't use any prep. We use tamiya rc super grip radial tires now. They work very good. Just wander if there is anything better.
if you want to go fast, Solaris or rush tires are the way to go. A set of 32ís should work well if paragon is allowed to be used, or maybe 28ís are the way to go if traction is exceptionally low.
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:20 AM
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Is there an optional spool outdrive that allows the use of bone blades for the front? Is there a reason you wouldn't want to use bone blades on the front? I'm running VTA and USGT, so no monster power.

I have worn out both the outdrives and the pins on the CVDs, so there is a ton of slop. I figure blades would be a cheaper faster fix then having to replace both the drives and the bones.

Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2019, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 0010 View Post
Is there an optional spool outdrive that allows the use of bone blades for the front? Is there a reason you wouldn't want to use bone blades on the front? I'm running VTA and USGT, so no monster power.

I have worn out both the outdrives and the pins on the CVDs, so there is a ton of slop. I figure blades would be a cheaper faster fix then having to replace both the drives and the bones.

Thanks!
You could use the original AE part #31341 in the kits since TC6.
I didn’t like them so much since they are plastic, but worth a try.

Reflex racing used to have some but can‘t find on their homepage.
lasted 3 cars and are still on my TC7

nowadays icon rc makes some nice aluminium ones.
search for : ICON RC TC7.2/7.1 V2 ALUMINIUM SPOOL OUTDRIVES
Icon rc alu outdrives
bought them for my TC7.2
note: shipping might be quite expensive

Allways use the bone blades #31238
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Old 08-21-2019, 02:21 PM
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2 Q's
1) Can the TC7.1 or 7.2 beat an Awesomatix MidMotor on Highbite carpet in the Same drivers hands? Please be honest. Im a 30 Year AE Fan boy and Ill do just about anything to not buy an Awesomatix and still bleed Blue. I want to attend a few big races in the next few years and have been told buy some top National drivers that I MUST have an Awesomeatix MM to even compete. Is this true? Is there more TC in AE's Future? New plans? Ive been stupidly racing off road for the last few years and have not been following on road at all.

2) What are the diffs between a 7.1 and a 7.2? Im looking to get a aluminum High bite rig built and I see a ton of cheaper 7.1s and was wondering what is the geometry/chassis difference? (I want to get the wife a car too and the 7.1 would save some dough).

Thank you for any help.
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Old 08-21-2019, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by westendorfy View Post
2 Q's
1) Can the TC7.1 or 7.2 beat an Awesomatix MidMotor on Highbite carpet in the Same drivers hands? Please be honest. Im a 30 Year AE Fan boy and Ill do just about anything to not buy an Awesomatix and still bleed Blue. I want to attend a few big races in the next few years and have been told buy some top National drivers that I MUST have an Awesomeatix MM to even compete. Is this true? Is there more TC in AE's Future? New plans? Ive been stupidly racing off road for the last few years and have not been following on road at all.

2) What are the diffs between a 7.1 and a 7.2? Im looking to get a aluminum High bite rig built and I see a ton of cheaper 7.1s and was wondering what is the geometry/chassis difference? (I want to get the wife a car too and the 7.1 would save some dough).

Thank you for any help.
Kevin
I also bled blue since 1982 starting with the 12i and ending with the TC7.2. The 7.2 is a great car, the main difference from the TC7.1 is both pulleys are on the same side of the spur gear which moves the motor inward. My 7.2 was a little quicker than my 7.1. I don't run high bite carpet, I run pretty high bite asphalt. I recently went to the A800 mid motor with long arms. I have to say, I have definitely gotten quicker. The car just carries corner speed extremely well and it's a very easy car to drive.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
I also bled blue since 1982 starting with the 12i and ending with the TC7.2. The 7.2 is a great car, the main difference from the TC7.1 is both pulleys are on the same side of the spur gear which moves the motor inward. My 7.2 was a little quicker than my 7.1. I don't run high bite carpet, I run pretty high bite asphalt. I recently went to the A800 mid motor with long arms. I have to say, I have definitely gotten quicker. The car just carries corner speed extremely well and it's a very easy car to drive.
I have heard the the AMX cars require a trip to the setup station after every run. Is that the case? At my club, everyone is running an X-ray or a AMX, but mainly X-ray because everyone thinks the AMX is too finicky. There is one guy that runs AMX and he is fast. I am intrigued by the AMX but the ever changing parts list and the reputation, deserved or not, of requiring a ton of maintenance between runs makes me trepidatious about going AMX. What do you think?
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 0010 View Post


I have heard the the AMX cars require a trip to the setup station after every run. Is that the case? At my club, everyone is running an X-ray or a AMX, but mainly X-ray because everyone thinks the AMX is too finicky. There is one guy that runs AMX and he is fast. I am intrigued by the AMX but the ever changing parts list and the reputation, deserved or not, of requiring a ton of maintenance between runs makes me trepidatious about going AMX. What do you think?
^This haha
I have been researching AMX cars for days now.... the part numbers and running part changes are OVERWHELMING to say the least. There looks like there is 3 different Mid motor conversions alone. The website is a mess and uses Roman Numerals? haha. The only way I can think of getting one is buying a used clean one with extras and just pay the price for someone else dealing with all the gathering of parts.

As far as retweaking between runs I have heard the same thing about AMX cars. That would not bother me as I do the same thing with my 12th scale. I use the penny technique on my pan cars and havent race a TC since TC3's.

Is tweaking a TC nowadays that involved?
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 0010 View Post


I have heard the the AMX cars require a trip to the setup station after every run. Is that the case? At my club, everyone is running an X-ray or a AMX, but mainly X-ray because everyone thinks the AMX is too finicky. There is one guy that runs AMX and he is fast. I am intrigued by the AMX but the ever changing parts list and the reputation, deserved or not, of requiring a ton of maintenance between runs makes me trepidatious about going AMX. What do you think?
I had all the same concerns you listed above. First off, I run 17.5 and USGT at our local track. I don't have time to put the cars on a setup station between runs, I put them on the setup station every week at home. I haven't noticed the settings changing much. I don't wreck very often, so that probably helps. But the car is very robust, it will take a hit and keep going.

As far as maintenance. At first I would agree that it's more, but after you get used to the car, it's just slightly more. Why slightly more? Because of the way they set caster front and rear (they set rear caster to set the wheelbase). With most cars the caster is not adjustable, but with the AMX you can dial in any amount you want by shortening one top link and lengthening the other. So it's one more thing that you have to adjust and measure. It's the measuring that takes the time. It also takes some time to learn how to refill the rotary shocks. But after you learn how, it's easy as can be.

And let me address Westendorfy's statement of the running changes. That is what kept me from getting the A800. However, a friend of mine told me it's just a different philosophy and probably cheaper in the long run. AMX comes out with running changes throughout each year that may add up to $200 to $300. The option for the Yoko, Xray, or AE cars is that you buy a new car each year for around $500 to $600. Well, AE probably less because they don't come out with a new car every year. Of course, you can sell your old car and then the change costs about what you would spend on upgrading the AMX.

And Westendorfy's idea of buying a used AMX with a lot of spares is a good one. I've probably spent over $500 in spares for the two used cars I bought and they did come with some spares.

EDIT: I feel funny saying good things about the AMX car on a TC7.1 thread. I still think the AE cars are by far the best bang for the buck. I still have a TC7.2 and it is a very competitive cars. The TC7.2 is a fantastic car and so is the TC7.1.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:36 PM
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Glen nailed it. I ran a 6.1 for 6 months. 6.2 for 6 months and then went awesomatix. Best bang for your buck is associated. I am still a rooky but the amx is good.


I checked my setup weekly no real changes in anything other than slight ride height and weight distribution on new spring. i can go a month and not see a change in anything. Changes in parts are a pain but really not necessary on a car that is this fast. I broke a turnbuckle and a couple driveshafts in 2 years. Balls pop out but someone said that problem is resolved from the factory now. i changed them to another brand awhile ago and no issues,

the us website is poor but there are several other supplier in the us that have great websites. You need spares and will be subject to some product sold out everywhere once in awhile. When 1 place is missing something go to another. You will usually find it,
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Old 08-23-2019, 04:46 PM
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Does anyone have a base black carpet set-up for 17.5 TC or 21.5 TC/USGT. My car keeps over rotation in the middle of the corner. I have 10k in my rear diff and I think might be to much for my car
also Can someone help me understand rear tow adjustments with the AE7.1 I am trying to get 2.5 degrees of rear toe out of the car.
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by racer034life View Post
Does anyone have a base black carpet set-up for 17.5 TC or 21.5 TC/USGT. My car keeps over rotation in the middle of the corner. I have 10k in my rear diff and I think might be to much for my car
also Can someone help me understand rear tow adjustments with the AE7.1 I am trying to get 2.5 degrees of rear toe out of the car.
If you use the same insert for the suspension arms on the front and back mounts, then the rear toe in is 3 degrees. You can move the front mount in to increase the toe in or move it out to decrease the toe in. Or you can adjust the back inserts. Move them in to decrease the toe in and move them out to increase the toe in. I liked running a wide track width in the back to make the rear end grip better, so I would run 3 dots out in the front and the rear and since they were the same, I had 3 degrees of toe in. If the car was too stable, then I went to 2 dots out on the back inserts. This reduced the toe in to 2.5 degrees. This is explained in the back of the TC7.1 manual, page 24. Good luck.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
If you use the same insert for the suspension arms on the front and back mounts, then the rear toe in is 3 degrees. You can move the front mount in to increase the toe in or move it out to decrease the toe in. Or you can adjust the back inserts. Move them in to decrease the toe in and move them out to increase the toe in. I liked running a wide track width in the back to make the rear end grip better, so I would run 3 dots out in the front and the rear and since they were the same, I had 3 degrees of toe in. If the car was too stable, then I went to 2 dots out on the back inserts. This reduced the toe in to 2.5 degrees. This is explained in the back of the TC7.1 manual, page 24. Good luck.
Ok so can someone post a picture of 2.5 degree's of rear toe on there AE chasssis 7.1? . As i thinkI have my rear toe done incorrectly. What rear diff fluid are some of you using in 21.5/17.5 tc. I have 10k in the rear of my car and my chassis looks like it doesn't have enough grip in the rear and it will break loose or worse it will spin out on me What rear diff fluid are some of you using. Also has anyone tried the RSD aluminum chassis for the tc7.1. I use to have the pitch control system and it was great on my last 7.1. Last the shock bladders are horrible are there another brands that work with the AE shocks? I am not a fan of the stock bladders.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:16 PM
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Iím currently running my 7.1 in VTA. A great fit for the class.

I to went to a Aweso car to see what all the hoopla was about for USGT, and it was Absolutely night and day. All the people talking bout how hard it is to tune or maintain donít know what they are talking about. Just looking for a reason to put down the car. The Aweso car has been the top ten cars in just about every stock and super stock classes around the world. Top mod guys will drive anything fast.

Where the AE car shines is that a good used unit is a perfect first TC to start the hobby. Reasonable priced and a Great car with potential with parts supply is abundant.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:12 AM
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Well I ended up buying a Mid Motor AMX car... lol. Im just going to run AE Stickers on it and anodize all the Alu parts blue. haha.

but... has anyone even built anything similar to the AMX shocks on a AE car? I have seen the Lower CG Shock towers and even the mid motor conversions... But the dampers are Patented correct? The AMX Car is basically a pancar in the touring car class. I would drive an AE touring car in a heartbeat if there was some conversion to bridge the center of gravity gap.

Were are the rules for touring car class? Im curious.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by westendorfy View Post
Well I ended up buying a Mid Motor AMX car... lol. Im just going to run AE Stickers on it and anodize all the Alu parts blue. haha.

but... has anyone even built anything similar to the AMX shocks on a AE car? I have seen the Lower CG Shock towers and even the mid motor conversions... But the dampers are Patented correct? The AMX Car is basically a pancar in the touring car class. I would drive an AE touring car in a heartbeat if there was some conversion to bridge the center of gravity gap.

Were are the rules for touring car class? Im curious.
I doubt that they patented the rotary damper. From Wikipedia:The first hydraulic shock absorbers were of the rotary vane pattern. These consisted of a cylindrical oil-filled body, bolted to the chassis. A lever arm was attached to the axle and inside the cylinder, this rotated a spindle carrying a vane or paddle.[1] This vane had only a small hole in it, through which the hydraulic oil could pass. Resistance to flow through the hole provided the damping effect.These were first developed by Maurice Houdaille around 1906,[3] but remained largely ignored in favour of the simpler friction devices for some years.This type was most common pre-war,[4] although Ferrari continued to use the Houdaille vane-type for Formula One racing cars into the late 1950s.[5]
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