Hey guys, I recently got back into the hobby and the track I go to has a big on road scene. I am still deciding on buying used or buy new(Sakura XI Soort. I love building and this car was awesome last time).

On Facebook a guy sells a one race old TC7 with Alu Chassis, some DCVs and some other spares for 160€.

​​​​​​So, how much better in hands of a hobby driver is the car? I had a lot of fun with the Sakura last time and I won't be a second faster with the TC7. Supply of spares may be a little better at this track.

What are the differences to a 7.1 and a 7.2??
I read something about the shocks?

Thanks for the detailed reply. I'll give some of those changes a try. I think you're on the right track with roll centers so I'm starting there.

As already mentioned, take a look at steering angle. Make sure your DCJ's aren't binding. I hadn't been gluing my sidewalls up until last weekend. My car had no tendency to traction roll, so didn't feel that it was necessary. After our second heat, the TQ (I was sitting in second after qualifying) said that he was eating my lunch through a particularly tight section. He was looking at my car and was surprised to see that I hadn't glued my sidewalls. My impression had been that it was only needed to prevent traction rolling. He said my sidewalls were likely folding over, causing the car to dig in and scrub too much speed. To start, I glued the sidewalls on the front tires. It was a drastic enough difference that I had to relearn to drive the car during the main. I had my worst finish of the day (3rd) due to tangling with lapped traffic, but managed to click off faster laps than I had all day. The difference in corner speed through the tight sections was very noticeable. We're running on black carpet, as well.
Also, what brand of servo are you running? I've had an issue with a few Savox servos causing a momentary brown-out when the steering was getting a workout. I installed a glitch buster in those cars, which resolved the issue. A TC shouldn't be stressing the servo to that degree, but you never know...

Interesting, I surely would not have thought of tire gluing but in a way it makes sense. It appears that it definitely had an affect on the car. Worth considering for sure.

The area that I'm starting with for now is diff height. According to the Hudy Setup Manual diff height changes how the car rolls. Higher diffs allow the car to roll more. My diffs were at the mid low setting so I've tried the mid high and tomorrow I'll experiment with the high setting. At my track everybody is running their diffs high. Since the grip level is so high that makes sense. I'm learning. Thanks!

Will the shock bladders on the 7.2 (#31752) fit the VCS3 shock bodies on the 6.2? I cant see the bladder width specifications and don't know if they are 10mm or 11mm. It appears the shock rebuild kit for the 6.2 (#31324) is no longer available. Anyone know where I can get bladders for the 6.2 VCS3 shocks?

reflex racing used to make bladders, I think?

On black carpet you can reduce your rear toe. It really get the car to rotate better, more corner speed.

The problem with going to another make of CVA is usually the hole for the hex pin isn't located correctly, or the ball end of the axle for the out drive is the wrong diameter. Possible substitutes could be Yokomo, I can tell you that ARC, Serpent and VBC will not work without changing more that just the CVA.

Where are they breaking? The G clips that hold the pins in need to be installed in a certain direction otherwise they can catch something and break. Or are you breaking the axle itself? I've broken a couple over the years but they were hits worthy of breakage for any car. :lol:

Cut off the stud that protrudes out from the wheel nut after it is tightened down. Basically you want the wheel nut and the stud to be flush. I have seen cars break because of that little extra sticking out catching a board... Other than that, I have had the coupler tubes shatter in really hard crashes.