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Old 10-26-2017, 07:07 PM
  #2356  
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I run the stock plastic bumper under the Associated carbon brace. It puts it level with the horizontal part of the bulkhead. It also has a small gap between the sway bar mount and the brace. This allows a little play.
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Old 10-26-2017, 07:09 PM
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I will try that. Thank you!
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:33 AM
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I got my TC7.1 and put it together. I also got the AE aluminum chassis. I noticed during assembly that whenever I tightened up the top deck it tweaked the chassis a bit. I methodically went through everything to figure out what the issue was. It did this on both the cf and aluminum chassis. It ended up being the screw holes were slightly off in the top deck. I drilled them out with a 1/8th bit and voila, everything was great. This isn't the first time this has happened with a tc for me, I remember having to do this with the RSD top deck that I had with my TC6.2, but it seems odd.
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian
I got my TC7.1 and put it together. I also got the AE aluminum chassis. I noticed during assembly that whenever I tightened up the top deck it tweaked the chassis a bit. I methodically went through everything to figure out what the issue was. It did this on both the cf and aluminum chassis. It ended up being the screw holes were slightly off in the top deck. I drilled them out with a 1/8th bit and voila, everything was great. This isn't the first time this has happened with a tc for me, I remember having to do this with the RSD top deck that I had with my TC6.2, but it seems odd.
Sometimes the simplest fixes are the best !!
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:56 PM
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Anyone got any tips for keeping air out of the shocks? I have them built with the x-rings and green slime, but they still get air in them during use. They can sit all night without issues, but the first time they get ran I can hear the air. I do have the caps drilled as well and set rebound to be about 1-2mm. My guess is they are sucking in air from the bottom during compression.
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Old 11-02-2017, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by trilerian
Anyone got any tips for keeping air out of the shocks? I have them built with the x-rings and green slime, but they still get air in them during use. They can sit all night without issues, but the first time they get ran I can hear the air. I do have the caps drilled as well and set rebound to be about 1-2mm. My guess is they are sucking in air from the bottom during compression.
If it getting the air from the shaft, you most likely have scuf marks on the shaft or worn out o rings.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:09 PM
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How you set rebound will also effect how air is sucked into the shock. When you push the shock shaft in all the way, and then put the cap on... the fluid is in a pretty neutral state. when you extend the shock, you are removing the volume of the shock shaft out of the closed system, creating a vacuum. Sometimes that vacuum is strong enough to pull in some air through the shock o-rings (if they are a light squeeze/low friction type)

What I find works best for me is to only push the shock shaft about halfway into the shock, and then put the bladder and cap on. With the drilled shock cap, this should still give you pretty minimal rebound. Otherwise I find myself constantly chasing that "perfect" rebound setting that I can rarely feel a huge difference :P.
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by eazy70
If it getting the air from the shaft, you most likely have scuf marks on the shaft or worn out o rings.
The shafts and x-rings are pretty much brand new. Built the car about 2 weeks ago. I am very careful with the shock shafts not to scuff them.


Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
How you set rebound will also effect how air is sucked into the shock. When you push the shock shaft in all the way, and then put the cap on... the fluid is in a pretty neutral state. when you extend the shock, you are removing the volume of the shock shaft out of the closed system, creating a vacuum. Sometimes that vacuum is strong enough to pull in some air through the shock o-rings (if they are a light squeeze/low friction type)

What I find works best for me is to only push the shock shaft about halfway into the shock, and then put the bladder and cap on. With the drilled shock cap, this should still give you pretty minimal rebound. Otherwise I find myself constantly chasing that "perfect" rebound setting that I can rarely feel a huge difference :P.
I pretty much do the same thing. Shock shaft half way in then put the bladder on. Yields between 1-2mm of rebound. I'll see how they do tomorrow at race night. If it is still an issue, maybe I will build them without pushing the shaft in at all.
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Old 11-04-2017, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
Who in the US sells the Fenix chassis?
Check also Randy Caster - 1UP racing
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Old 11-04-2017, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Giorgio
Check also Randy Caster - 1UP racing
Calandra Racing Concepts Inc 2014 :: TeamCRC :: RC Cars, Parts and Race Track Systems
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Old 11-04-2017, 02:42 PM
  #2366  
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Originally Posted by Jason84
Ah the mount is made by Phil Matthews lookup pilmat engineering on Facebook. He’s up in Canada so expect like a week-2 for delivery. It’s made out of steel as well to add weight in the middle of the car.
Pilmat Looks dormant since June-ish. First & most important - is he okay? I don't want to start looking for alternate contact if something more important than RC happened in his life
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Old 11-04-2017, 04:41 PM
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So the shocks this week are still good after racing last evening. But another question... For those running black carpet and running 1.5 toe in the rear, how many wheel shims are you running for track width adjustment? Are there bigger hex clamps I can buy? When comparing my setup to some of the other cars (mainly xrays) we noticed my rear track width was pretty narrow. But if I go out any more with the pills, it will increase rear toe. I put 2mm shims between the clamps and wheels and this brought the width out, but it was still slightly narrower than the other setups. Car handled much better as well, freeing up the rear a bit. But with 2mm shims, the wheel isn't on much of the clamp and this concerns me.
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Old 11-04-2017, 05:00 PM
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Go out on inner and outer pills by the same amount to keep the same toe. Example. Inner pill 1 and out pill 2 go to 2 and 3. Track width will increase but toe stays the same.

Also comparing the track width on one car to a different car isn’t quite apples to oranges, more like oranges to tangerines. They are similar but still different enough to matter. The geometry on one car might be designed to work with a wider track, while the AE might be set up to work with narrow.
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by theproffesor
Go out on inner and outer pills by the same amount to keep the same toe. Example. Inner pill 1 and out pill 2 go to 2 and 3. Track width will increase but toe stays the same.

Also comparing the track width on one car to a different car isn’t quite apples to oranges, more like oranges to tangerines. They are similar but still different enough to matter. The geometry on one car might be designed to work with a wider track, while the AE might be set up to work with narrow.
Can't go out any farther on the pills. Already at 3 out on the inner mounts. I understand that setup changes can vary between cars, but after trying the wheel shims, I want the wider track width. So the question remains; what wider hex clamps will fit the car? Also, what are people using for spur gears? I am having trouble getting other brands to fit. I tried shimming a crc spur gear, but I couldn't get it to stop wobbling.
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:24 AM
  #2370  
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Xenon spur gears work and match nicely with their perfect pitch pinions too.
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