395LikesTeam Associated TC7 & TC7.1 Touring Car
02-02-2016, 03:39 PM
#197
Tech Initiate
I can understand that for one value ( 0 ° on front, 3 ° on rear) you have just to change the position of single arm mont.
But after with the same insert you can have the same toe variation of 1 dot to 2 dot between TC6.2 and TC7.
I will check when I will receive my TC7 !
Fred
But after with the same insert you can have the same toe variation of 1 dot to 2 dot between TC6.2 and TC7.
I will check when I will receive my TC7 !
Fred
02-02-2016, 05:42 PM
#200
02-03-2016, 10:40 AM
#202
Tech Rookie
I can understand that for one value ( 0 ° on front, 3 ° on rear) you have just to change the position of single arm mont.
But after with the same insert you can have the same toe variation of 1 dot to 2 dot between TC6.2 and TC7.
I will check when I will receive my TC7 !
Fred
But after with the same insert you can have the same toe variation of 1 dot to 2 dot between TC6.2 and TC7.
I will check when I will receive my TC7 !
Fred
02-03-2016, 12:40 PM
#204
Tech Rookie
So I have been itching to get back into 1/10 TC carpet, and been waiting for the right time. Which I am hoping is now. I found a track about 45 minutes from where I live. To go along with the kit, what is a good 17.5 electronic setup? Steering servo?
02-03-2016, 01:48 PM
#205
OK, I built my TC7 yesterday. Some comments and some questions.
1) Builds pretty much like a TC6.2 except for the sway bar system and the way the shocks are bolted to the chassis.
2) Quality is top notch, all the parts were there, plastic looks a lot better than TC6.2.
3) Be careful when selecting the front 4 degree C hubs in the front, I couldn't find a right or left on them, so you just have to see how the hole tilts and make sure the C hub is tilting to the back.
4) Really like the shocks, very nice. Aluminum spring carrier on the bottom works great. Shocks are very smooth and easy to build.
QUESTION>>>>
5) The sway bar system kind of confuses me. I hope Sean or Randy comments, not sure what all the set screws are for. Be careful and save the 3mm long set screws for the plastic sway bar holders. Rest of the set screws are 2.5mm long and go into aluminum. When I get everything together and the sway bar unhooked, I want it to rotate freely, but as soon as I tighten the set screw in the middle (the aluminum carrier between the sway bar mounts), then it's not free anymore. You can still rotate it, but not freely. Do I need to shorten the middle aluminum sway bar holder/spacer? Also, what are the set screws in the plastic holders for and how much should I screw them in?
6) Only problem I had was on one of the C Hubs, I must have overtightend the set screw because I couldn't get it to tighten down, but it's in enough to hold the pin in place.
Overall, great car, can't wait to run it in a week and a half. I have it set up for USGT right now. Should be fun.
1) Builds pretty much like a TC6.2 except for the sway bar system and the way the shocks are bolted to the chassis.
2) Quality is top notch, all the parts were there, plastic looks a lot better than TC6.2.
3) Be careful when selecting the front 4 degree C hubs in the front, I couldn't find a right or left on them, so you just have to see how the hole tilts and make sure the C hub is tilting to the back.
4) Really like the shocks, very nice. Aluminum spring carrier on the bottom works great. Shocks are very smooth and easy to build.
QUESTION>>>>
5) The sway bar system kind of confuses me. I hope Sean or Randy comments, not sure what all the set screws are for. Be careful and save the 3mm long set screws for the plastic sway bar holders. Rest of the set screws are 2.5mm long and go into aluminum. When I get everything together and the sway bar unhooked, I want it to rotate freely, but as soon as I tighten the set screw in the middle (the aluminum carrier between the sway bar mounts), then it's not free anymore. You can still rotate it, but not freely. Do I need to shorten the middle aluminum sway bar holder/spacer? Also, what are the set screws in the plastic holders for and how much should I screw them in?
6) Only problem I had was on one of the C Hubs, I must have overtightend the set screw because I couldn't get it to tighten down, but it's in enough to hold the pin in place.
Overall, great car, can't wait to run it in a week and a half. I have it set up for USGT right now. Should be fun.
02-03-2016, 02:10 PM
#206
Hey Glenn- Congrats on your new car. When you say USGT, you mean the Phoenix Spec GT right? That's a bit different from the USGT rules.
02-03-2016, 02:28 PM
#207
Some answers here, glenn.
3.) There is a faint L and R on the front the C-hubs. Take a look at the posted setup sheets, they display where those marks are.
5.) Make sure that the alum piece in the middle is centered, meaning you have the same amount of swaybar sticking out of the holders left and right. With that set screw snug, and the set screws in plastic holders backed out, and nothing else connected to it, the swaybar should rotate free. Then start tightening the plastic holder set screws until the bar binds up and then back those set screws off 1/4 turn or so, so that it rotates free again.
6.) The instructions say to poke through the flashing where these set screws go, both front and back. I did that with an exacto to start, then the 1.5mm wrench. That gives the set screw room to tighten up against pin instead of stripping while trying to get through the flashing. When tightening, you want to be gentle and stop at the first feel of resistance.
3.) There is a faint L and R on the front the C-hubs. Take a look at the posted setup sheets, they display where those marks are.
5.) Make sure that the alum piece in the middle is centered, meaning you have the same amount of swaybar sticking out of the holders left and right. With that set screw snug, and the set screws in plastic holders backed out, and nothing else connected to it, the swaybar should rotate free. Then start tightening the plastic holder set screws until the bar binds up and then back those set screws off 1/4 turn or so, so that it rotates free again.
6.) The instructions say to poke through the flashing where these set screws go, both front and back. I did that with an exacto to start, then the 1.5mm wrench. That gives the set screw room to tighten up against pin instead of stripping while trying to get through the flashing. When tightening, you want to be gentle and stop at the first feel of resistance.
02-03-2016, 03:07 PM
#209
Some answers here, glenn.
3.) There is a faint L and R on the front the C-hubs. Take a look at the posted setup sheets, they display where those marks are.
5.) Make sure that the alum piece in the middle is centered, meaning you have the same amount of swaybar sticking out of the holders left and right. With that set screw snug, and the set screws in plastic holders backed out, and nothing else connected to it, the swaybar should rotate free. Then start tightening the plastic holder set screws until the bar binds up and then back those set screws off 1/4 turn or so, so that it rotates free again.
6.) The instructions say to poke through the flashing where these set screws go, both front and back. I did that with an exacto to start, then the 1.5mm wrench. That gives the set screw room to tighten up against pin instead of stripping while trying to get through the flashing. When tightening, you want to be gentle and stop at the first feel of resistance.
3.) There is a faint L and R on the front the C-hubs. Take a look at the posted setup sheets, they display where those marks are.
5.) Make sure that the alum piece in the middle is centered, meaning you have the same amount of swaybar sticking out of the holders left and right. With that set screw snug, and the set screws in plastic holders backed out, and nothing else connected to it, the swaybar should rotate free. Then start tightening the plastic holder set screws until the bar binds up and then back those set screws off 1/4 turn or so, so that it rotates free again.
6.) The instructions say to poke through the flashing where these set screws go, both front and back. I did that with an exacto to start, then the 1.5mm wrench. That gives the set screw room to tighten up against pin instead of stripping while trying to get through the flashing. When tightening, you want to be gentle and stop at the first feel of resistance.
02-03-2016, 03:46 PM
#210
Tech Apprentice
interesting
In theory, any UK shop that deals with CML will be able to get spares from CML. What shops are planning to stock is tough to answer. CML have some parts in stock now, although sadly not kits yet!!
I don't believe any one in the UK have seen production parts yet. The pre production parts that I've seen look very good indeed though.
I don't believe any one in the UK have seen production parts yet. The pre production parts that I've seen look very good indeed though.