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Old 11-13-2002, 08:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by sengming
check out my pics :http://groups.msn.com/tl01andff02/shoebox.msnw?Page=1

thanks
Altezza, sweet~!

Do you have the carbon fibre one? I do, but mines all battle-damaged...
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Old 11-14-2002, 04:16 AM   #17
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wj, ok cool. looking forward to see

sengming, cool too.
fitting my speedtune gear n 12x1 Mod now, for weekend runs...

Meanwhile, my TL01 bods:


and another one:


and the first one of all:
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Old 11-14-2002, 04:49 PM   #18
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GTO2 WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i really love that civic
what body is that? focus, with civic stickers?
i really like the red civic, great jod! it looks so cool with the tuner look with teh wide fenders
where? did you get the stickers for the red civc?
i'm gonna have to to do one of those civics
thanks
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Old 11-14-2002, 11:42 PM   #19
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darn it! Just bought the speed tuned gear and the hollow shafts. When fixing up, i realise that i bought 2 sets of speed tune gear. Somehow i got wrong impression from the post that i need for front and rear gears. Oh well, can be as spare.
Anyway, other thing i realize is the weight of the geardiffs....darn heavy. need to change to TA03 balldiffs i suppose they should be lesser metal parts inside (what? balls and rings)....
My current setup would be 13x2 Mod motor with 21T pinion (a bit heavy for the motor, I know...)
We'll see how it goes....I prepare a 19T pinion as well.

sengming, yes, it is a Focus body with Honda Protoform decals.
The yellow one is Focus with Honda HPI decals. Happy painting!
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Old 11-15-2002, 07:55 PM   #20
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hey GTO2, how are the hollow gears? anygood?
i'm gonna be getting some soon.

do you recommend teh ligthweight chassie or is it a waste of money?
thanks
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Old 11-16-2002, 07:54 AM   #21
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They're very good indeed combined with the Speed tuned gears. I tried it today at my local track. On straight (abt 10m) it chase nitros (yeah! well maybe theirs is not well tuned yet).
After finished my first pack the battery felt pretty warm and so did the ESC and the motor. I'm using 3000HV pack with 13x2 and 21T.
I did try to brake at end of straight turn and the car flipped. Afterwards, I didn't brake at all and everything is just smooth. Overall I still feel the car is a bit heavy (especially the Geardiffs) need to fix this soon and maybe find a suitable lightweight CVD to go with it. But I won't let my hopes high if ever to compete with race spec EPs.

Sengming, I use stock chassis. The last time i went to my LHS, I didn't feel much of a difference between both (maybe couple of grams or so). So...I guess much more worth it if you concentrate upgrading on the 'moving' parts instead of the static ones. Just my own opn.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:13 AM   #22
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GTO2 how high is your car of the ground?
can you give me your suspension setup?
roll-bars, spring, oil, etc.
thanks
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:26 AM   #23
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4mm ride height.
front VCA shocks, soft spring, 40wt oil, soft stabilizer, 0 deg toe in.
rear stock shocks, stock spring 2mm spacer, no stabilizer, 2deg toe in.

Btw I find the stock pinion gear wear out fast, so I replace them with the duralumin ones. And since I don't intend to race with it (just to have fun), I use foams and +3mm offset at the rear.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:40 AM   #24
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at 4mm ride height, dosn't the car hit the ground and with soft springs?

i want to lower my car by putting it o-rings as spacers inside the shock shaft. but my car will hit the ground cause springs are alittle soft.
black stock spring in font( from ff02 kit, harder than the siver stock)
blue springs in rear(came with the ta03 super low friction dampers)
thanks
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:25 AM   #25
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Default Bodies for TL01

Hey everyone;
1) What brand of bodies have you found to fit the TL01 chassis. I'm running an HPI 185mm Porshe Turbo but it's seen better days. The Tamiya bodies are a little pricey just to get beat up at the racetrack.

2) Does the LA kit REALLY make a difference in the handling. At $50 it's a lot of money to dump into this car if there is little benefit.

3) Do the Carbon transmission shafts help any. Is there any noticable difference by installing them.

Other than that I have most of the popular hop-ups on the car already.

Thanks for the Help,
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:58 AM   #26
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Actually at 4mm the chassis still can go further down (and the ride height at the rear is slightly higher). I set the damper spring in front slightly loose (when lifting chassis from ground level, wheels will still further drop). It won't hit the ground.

I guess if you don't have spacer, o-ring will do as well. Hard springs works well if your traction is good (u are using balldiff, I don't) and I need softer up front for a bit more handling.

Quote:
Originally posted by sengming
at 4mm ride height, dosn't the car hit the ground and with soft springs?

i want to lower my car by putting it o-rings as spacers inside the shock shaft. but my car will hit the ground cause springs are alittle soft.
black stock spring in font( from ff02 kit, harder than the siver stock)
blue springs in rear(came with the ta03 super low friction dampers)
thanks
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Old 11-16-2002, 11:06 AM   #27
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Default Re: Bodies for TL01

I'm not very specific in getting exact bodywidth, I just use Protoform or any 190 bodyshells. Yeah, the Tamiya ones are good for display, but not so good for bashing for lots of reason.

Well, I have yet to try the LA version (I have the conversion parts), so I don't know for sure. But logically it should improve stability because of the additional arm span. I don't see any other differences other than that.

Yeah the carbon transmission shaft makes a lot of difference. Anything you can cut/minimize in the rotating mass would give you better acceleration, better handling, hence lighter motor load.
hope these help.

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
Hey everyone;
1) What brand of bodies have you found to fit the TL01 chassis. I'm running an HPI 185mm Porshe Turbo but it's seen better days. The Tamiya bodies are a little pricey just to get beat up at the racetrack.

2) Does the LA kit REALLY make a difference in the handling. At $50 it's a lot of money to dump into this car if there is little benefit.

3) Do the Carbon transmission shafts help any. Is there any noticable difference by installing them.

Other than that I have most of the popular hop-ups on the car already.

Thanks for the Help,
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Old 11-16-2002, 11:33 AM   #28
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Default Gear shafts & shock "O"-rings

I really didn't consider the shafts to be rotating mass. The shafts SHOULD be stationary and the gears should be the rotating mass.
In mechanics it's not normal to rotate the mounting shaft that a bearing, gear, etc. turns on.
That's why I asked about the shafts, they should be considered "sprung" weight and not rotating mass. Tho this is a heavy car to begin with.

Sengming;

I don't like to use "o" rings in my shocks because they can compress differently in each shock and cause the shocks to be of different overall lengths. I always use plastic spacers inside my shocks if I need to shorten them that much. Your shocks should be exactly the same length from left to right. (within a few thousands anyway)
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Old 11-16-2002, 05:18 PM   #29
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where do i get these spacers?
thanks
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Old 11-16-2002, 07:59 PM   #30
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Default Re: Gear shafts & shock "O"-rings

Um, I'm not that 'deep' in theoretical terms...
In my understanding, even with bearings at both ends the shaft still rotates (a lighter shaft would be a lighter load for the motor). Well maybe it doesn't count as rotating mass in that terms, but in my experience it did accelerate faster and much much lighter.
Speaking of weight, the car is still felt heavy even after stock shaft replaced, screws, gear shafts. Most probably because I swapped all the plastic bushings to bearings-maybe I should retain the bushing at some areas? .
Thanks for the insight on the rotating mass.

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
I really didn't consider the shafts to be rotating mass. The shafts SHOULD be stationary and the gears should be the rotating mass.
In mechanics it's not normal to rotate the mounting shaft that a bearing, gear, etc. turns on.
That's why I asked about the shafts, they should be considered "sprung" weight and not rotating mass. Tho this is a heavy car to begin with.

Sengming;

I don't like to use "o" rings in my shocks because they can compress differently in each shock and cause the shocks to be of different overall lengths. I always use plastic spacers inside my shocks if I need to shorten them that much. Your shocks should be exactly the same length from left to right. (within a few thousands anyway)
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