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VBC Racing D08

Old 10-09-2016, 03:27 PM
  #436  
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Question on diff fluid. I am running on an outdoor high bite track. If I run higher diff fluid (7K and up), will the car rotate the center of the corner better than if I run lower diff fluids (3K or so). I know that there is more to look at than just diff, but I am trying to get some help with diff tuning. Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:13 PM
  #437  
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Originally Posted by fanfor18 View Post
Question on diff fluid. I am running on an outdoor high bite track. If I run higher diff fluid (7K and up), will the car rotate the center of the corner better than if I run lower diff fluids (3K or so). I know that there is more to look at than just diff, but I am trying to get some help with diff tuning. Thanks.
Less rotation with thicker fluid.
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:05 PM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Less rotation with thicker fluid.
Thank you for that information
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:52 PM
  #439  
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Hi All,

Just wondering if there is a known moulding issue with Silver compound steering block (part# A-03-P30898) I am finding that the holes for screws seem to be different slightly and you can only tell by fitting screw as the tension will be different. Now why I am raising this is that I purchased a second hand car off a friend and on the RHS knuckle the top seems loose and LHS knuckle the bottom feels loose. At first I thought it was stripped (being used) however I have just built a brand new kit and find it’s the same so this has lead me to believe there may be a tolerance issue in manufacture. The problem I am having is that the RHS camber link, I cannot get good tension on it as I tighten ball end on grub screw. So if that makes sense has anyone else experienced this?

TLP
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:24 AM
  #440  
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Opened a brand new spares packet and you can see a visible difference, measured at several points with calipers and measured up to 2.55mm, the smaller of the holes measured max of 2.30mm so for me this affects the 2 x kits i own and also spare parts packet. I also had some old D07 blocks either V2 or V3 and they are not quite so noticeable to the naked eye but they do measure to be larger as well but only up to 2.45mm vs 2.30mm. in summary there is a variation in the two holes on the steering blocks (top or bottom dependent on which side they are fitted) Looks like a worn mould tool which has deteriated over time perhaps
Attached Thumbnails VBC Racing D08-20161017_204442.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:01 AM
  #441  
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Hey tlp, just had a look at my steering arms and they seem to be the same size hole, didn't measure though.
The 3x12 set screw and 3x9 round head screw seem to screw down just fine.
I can nip them up nice and firm without feeling threaded or loose.
Maybe you just got a bad batch!

Maybe Loctite the Ball connector to the M3x12 set screw first, once cured then screw into the top of arm? That's provided the hole isn't too big to thread into.
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Old 10-22-2016, 06:15 PM
  #442  
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would this car be a good USGT chassis for an on-road beginner? what does parts support look like? Thanks
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:28 AM
  #443  
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I have a brand new d08 dynamic edition sealed with the anti tweek battery holders for sale, asking 350usd shipped to Canada or USA
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:52 AM
  #444  
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Over the weekend I managed to make the trip up to Yatabe Arena to continue on with testing and tuning of the D08. Unlike some people, I've decided to continue on with the D08 chassis platform until I've reached a setup that I am really happy with. After a relatively successful test session in September decided to change up a few things with the D08. This time I went with an aluminum chassis, 'gold' upper deck, used 1 mm roll center shims under all three front suspension blocks, and 0.5 mm shims under all three rear suspension blocks.

To be 100% honest I wasn't expecting much from the D08 with an aluminum chassis and a few other changes. I figured it would make the car easier to drive and that about it. I was wrong. It was a completely different car, I was blown away at how nimble and fast it transitioned from corner to corner without shrugging off corner speed. I thought to myself - is this my car?

First off the car had a lot of steering, and I mean a lot. Switching from the kit carbon main and regular upper deck I was running about 100% dual rate on my radio. I had to back down the dual rate to 80% with the aluminum and gold upper deck. I don't know what is causing the steering to go up, but my guess is the carbon chassis had quite a bit of chassis flex which took away from suspension. If this is true then that could be the reason why it's been somewhat difficult to make it fast around the corners and maintain corner speed. The consistency was there, but the corner speed was lacking.

Continuing on - I was able to place the car with great confidence, transitioning speeds were stable in the corners, the car didn't show any signs of strange behavior under acceleration or braking, I was able to be very aggressive with the car in the corners and the car maintained it composure and never broke loose.

Knowing this, I decided to do some fine tuning of the rear roll center by adjusting the rear inner link by adding a 1 mm shim. The chassis was now rolling through the corners beautifully.

I really suggest trying out the aluminum chassis and gold upper deck. I'm still amazed how well it performed considering it was just a main chassis and upper deck change.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/vbc...Arena20160905/

The above setup sheet is very close to what I am using now. However, I mentioned the changes I mad at the beginning of this post. Those are the only changes I made and boy did they work out well.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 10-24-2016 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:33 PM
  #445  
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Originally Posted by tlp View Post
Hi All,

Just wondering if there is a known moulding issue with Silver compound steering block (part# A-03-P30898) I am finding that the holes for screws seem to be different slightly and you can only tell by fitting screw as the tension will be different. Now why I am raising this is that I purchased a second hand car off a friend and on the RHS knuckle the top seems loose and LHS knuckle the bottom feels loose. At first I thought it was stripped (being used) however I have just built a brand new kit and find itís the same so this has lead me to believe there may be a tolerance issue in manufacture. The problem I am having is that the RHS camber link, I cannot get good tension on it as I tighten ball end on grub screw. So if that makes sense has anyone else experienced this?

TLP
Originally Posted by tlp View Post
Opened a brand new spares packet and you can see a visible difference, measured at several points with calipers and measured up to 2.55mm, the smaller of the holes measured max of 2.30mm so for me this affects the 2 x kits i own and also spare parts packet. I also had some old D07 blocks either V2 or V3 and they are not quite so noticeable to the naked eye but they do measure to be larger as well but only up to 2.45mm vs 2.30mm. in summary there is a variation in the two holes on the steering blocks (top or bottom dependent on which side they are fitted) Looks like a worn mould tool which has deteriated over time perhaps
I use a tooth pick to put a but of thick CA inside both sides and then I let it dry. This Gives the screw lots of material to bite into. They last way longer too.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:38 PM
  #446  
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Originally Posted by Heathen View Post
I use a tooth pick to put a but of thick CA inside both sides and then I let it dry. This Gives the screw lots of material to bite into. They last way longer too.
The d09 comes with 12mm set screws for the upper king pin so you have more engagement in the steering knuckle. I recommend to use the same on all the previous vbc tc cars. This allows more thread engagement and reduces the chance of pulling the set screw out of the threads
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:56 PM
  #447  
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I currently have a D07 and I wondering how you feel it compares to the D08. I race mainly indoor on black carpet.
I have read the rear inserts are a weak point.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:59 PM
  #448  
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Originally Posted by AlexPate View Post
The d09 comes with 12mm set screws for the upper king pin so you have more engagement in the steering knuckle. I recommend to use the same on all the previous vbc tc cars. This allows more thread engagement and reduces the chance of pulling the set screw out of the threads
Long since figured that out. Was not impressed with the short grub screw that came with the D07. I switched to a longer grub screw. Still didn't like it so I switched it to an Xray ball stud and ball cup. Way more solid.
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Heathen View Post
I currently have a D07 and I wondering how you feel it compares to the D08. I race mainly indoor on black carpet.
I have read the rear inserts are a weak point.
Suspension inserts are a weak point. This was fixed on the d09 they made a small opening to allow you to push the insert out and see the dots instead of a wide opening to punch pins through
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:17 PM
  #450  
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Originally Posted by Heathen View Post
I use a tooth pick to put a but of thick CA inside both sides and then I let it dry. This Gives the screw lots of material to bite into. They last way longer too.
You could also just get a 3mm helicoil setup and drill out the hole and insert the helicoil. This has helped me when I have stripped a few knuckles..

Jon
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