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Awesomatix A800

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A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

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Old 08-24-2019, 02:25 PM
  #4321  
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
John... It's better off that you determine how to access a Google drive.
I have a Google Drive account.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:45 AM
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I'd like to lead this question with a statement, I think Ryan Maker is brilliant.

RCMaker has released a very nice small belt tensioner for the rear belt of the mid motor car. He says it prevents slippage and premature wear of the rear belt. I run 21.5 and 17.5 and I run both belts pretty loose and looking at them they aren't wearing prematurely and are not slipping. Is this new rear belt tensioner mainly for cars that run mod motors?
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Old 08-27-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
I'd like to lead this question with a statement, I think Ryan Maker is brilliant.

RCMaker has released a very nice small belt tensioner for the rear belt of the mid motor car. He says it prevents slippage and premature wear of the rear belt. I run 21.5 and 17.5 and I run both belts pretty loose and looking at them they aren't wearing prematurely and are not slipping. Is this new rear belt tensioner mainly for cars that run mod motors?
Yes, mainly for mod
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:40 PM
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What posts must be used when using the BSSX steering? at52 or at52a?
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
What posts must be used when using the BSSX steering? at52 or at52a?
Both work.
If you use AT52A you have to use 3,5mm shims under each post to get correct height.
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Old 08-28-2019, 09:27 AM
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Guys,

What wrench did you found works good with the new PSS screws? I have tried Hudy, MIP and Losi 1.5 mm and each of them seems just a tad too big to grab properly in the screw. I don't want to apply too much force because I don't want to damage the screw.

Thanks
Martin Paradis
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:46 AM
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MIP works, just need the lightest of touch. The screw is easy to 'turn' considering how small/shallow the thread engagement is..

My HUDY wrench just falls rite in, feels like it will strip the screw if im not careful. Granted my HUDY is over 10years old

also, "just the tip"
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Old 08-28-2019, 12:01 PM
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Most people I know have Hudy, MIP or Arrowmax, all seem to work ok. They donít go all the way in, just the tip and it turns easy
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Old 08-28-2019, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rhodopsine View Post
Guys,

What wrench did you found works good with the new PSS screws? I have tried Hudy, MIP and Losi 1.5 mm and each of them seems just a tad too big to grab properly in the screw. I don't want to apply too much force because I don't want to damage the screw.

Thanks
Martin Paradis
True 1,5mm precise hex drivers work. Such drivers have to be 1,475..1,50 mm according to DIN specs.
Avoid 1/16" hex drivers that can look almost same as 1,5 but are few hundredth bigger.
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Old 08-31-2019, 03:24 AM
  #4330  
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Hi, i have a gear differential which is always stripping gear after few laps, but i can't find any issue. I'm running small shim, do you have any advice? Thanks
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Old 08-31-2019, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by guru83 View Post
Hi, i have a gear differential which is always stripping gear after few laps, but i can't find any issue. I'm running small shim, do you have any advice? Thanks
Your small shim is too thin. Needs to be thicker.

If you return to the wide OD shim this will stop

A 0.4mm shim was recently suggested and now sold
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Old 09-01-2019, 11:40 AM
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For what it's worth, I do not like the front mustache body mount. I bought a used car that had this feature, so I left it alone. The front mustache moves the mounting point back and with the forward location I was running my JP8 the nose started drooping. I went back to the regular front mounts and it's much better.

EDIT: I have picked up quite a bit of time by going to the A800 Mid Motor long arm cars over the TC7.1 and TC7.2 I used to run. In USGT there were 2 guys that would beat me by around 10 seconds for a 5 minute race. I beat them both last week. And in 17.5 I was always a second a lap off the quickest guy and a full lap slower. I'm now .3 seconds off his quick lap times and am finishing around 6 seconds back in a 5 minute race. These cars should be outlawed!
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Old 09-01-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
For what it's worth, I do not like the front mustache body mount. I bought a used car that had this feature, so I left it alone. The front mustache moves the mounting point back and with the forward location I was running my JP8 the nose started drooping. I went back to the regular front mounts and it's much better.

EDIT: I have picked up quite a bit of time by going to the A800 Mid Motor long arm cars over the TC7.1 and TC7.2 I used to run. In USGT there were 2 guys that would beat me by around 10 seconds for a 5 minute race. I beat them both last week. And in 17.5 I was always a second a lap off the quickest guy and a full lap slower. I'm now .3 seconds off his quick lap times and am finishing around 6 seconds back in a 5 minute race. These cars should be outlawed!
You were definitely faster last night in 17.5. Good job.
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Old 09-02-2019, 09:33 AM
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Well I bit the bullet and bought a A800 MidMotor with the ALU chassis. I can say it is the smoothest, quietest and nicest feeling car I have ever driven.

As I just got it used and because it was in decent shape, I decided to just clean it and throw electronics in it. Wow. it was amazingly stable and FAST. Even with wrong tires, wrong ride height, wrong droop....lol. you name it. its not set and it was still fast. Three packs and Im completely sold.

Now I need to hit the hobby shop up for extra parts... as I hit a board and popped the front upper and lower balls out of the front arm thingys. I just popped them back in but I plan on refreshing all of them. She looks a bit fragile. Kind of like the old trinity 1/12 front ends. Hold on till ya hit something.
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:17 AM
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Tempted to switch to Awesomatix but with all the current setups using the mid motor and long arms itís very expensive to buy at the moment. Hope thereís something in the works to release it as one kit.
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