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Awesomatix A800

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Old 12-13-2018, 01:48 PM   -   Wikipost
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A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

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Old 07-29-2019, 12:09 PM
  #4276  
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Originally Posted by Dan View Post
I disagree, they also develop slop a little faster too and start to pop off more frequently. The plastic is too soft. If there is a better option to increase reliability, why not? Can keep the same mold, just make it of a better plastic...
run......
Dan, please inform how old are your P13-4?
Since first A800 days we have changed plastic material for P13-4 three times already by stiffer and stiffer material every time.
Please try the latest version that is in our store now.
Also we don't guarantee that our P13-4 will have slop less fit with "4,8mm" ball studs of others brands that can be till to 4,72...4,75mm actually at precise measurements.
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:15 PM
  #4277  
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Good to know, maybe 2yrs old. I have some new in the package that I haven't bothered using. When was the last material update?
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan View Post
Good to know, maybe 2yrs old. I have some new in the package that I haven't bothered using. When was the last material update?
The latest batch was produced in April.
Please note also that the plastics become softer at rising of the moisture content.
The polyamides (that is widely used for ball cups) generally show higher water absorption so the plastic cups become noticeably softer after some time especially in the wet climate conditions.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:44 AM
  #4279  
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Default parts wear

I have found the Awesomatix chassis in general has cost me less to keep running than others I have run in the past. The parts that wear most are pretty inexpensive, plus most spares I need to keep on hand are often parts that can be used on any corner, should I have a hard crash. I agree that its frustrating to have some slop develop in parts such as the ball cups, but that was true of any of the cars I have worked on in the past. With different brands of chassis's other parts that comprised the suspension showed similar wear from use and would get sloppy often requiring new arms or uprights, and yes, ball cups too. As much as I would like to penny pinch, it is racing we are doing, a lot of stress is put on parts. It can be from bumping and hard hits, or just general running of as many fast laps as we can. I find that changing bearings, and other parts regularly like ball cups, is just part of keeping a car running its best. I am happy that Oleg and crew are always looking to improve, as he mentioned with the several upgrades he has done with ball cups so far. This is true of many parts through out the car, and is nice to know that is ongoing with this chassis. Many thanks to all on the Awesomatix team for this constant effort to improve. :-)

-a
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:46 PM
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Glad to hear the ball cups have been improved, I had no idea. I just remember the original A800 ball cups being terrible so I never tried any AMX ball cups after that.
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Old 08-11-2019, 08:12 PM
  #4281  
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Any tips on pulling the bearing out from damper cap?

Edit: Nvm I got them. Guess I was being overly gentle.

Last edited by Gyr0; 08-11-2019 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 07:52 PM
  #4282  
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Another method is to overfill the damper housing and then screw it back together or push the ball in if its not already at the bottom. Its not a really smart answer just an accidental discovery from doing stupid things.
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Old Yesterday, 01:17 AM
  #4283  
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Default Need help on the Lower C.F. A arm

Dear all
I found there is some play on the Lower C.F. A arm on my brand new A800x evo.
A friend has suggested me to apply thin layer of C.A. in those 2 big holes in order to minimize the play between the a arm and the plastic.
May I know if could resolve the play with your experience?
OR otherwise, what can I do?

Many thanks.

REgards,
Hon
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Old Yesterday, 02:17 AM
  #4284  
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Originally Posted by LetGo View Post
Dear all
I found there is some play on the Lower C.F. A arm on my brand new A800x evo.
A friend has suggested me to apply thin layer of C.A. in those 2 big holes in order to minimize the play between the a arm and the plastic.
May I know if could resolve the play with your experience?
OR otherwise, what can I do?

Many thanks.

REgards,
Hon
I had the same issue but after running a small amount of CA glue around the inside of the holes on the carbon arms this removed the play but the arms were still free. One required a second layer to remove the play.
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Old Today, 10:10 AM
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Oleg, a few pages back you recommended that we use the really long upper suspension links that screw into the bulkheads when using the +8/9 lower arms. Some people were referring to this as a Hillbilly mod. I tried it on my USGT car, but I am using the normal setup on my 17.5 car. They both work fine. My question is why none of the team drivers have used the Hillbilly setup? Did they try it and it wasn't faster?
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Old Today, 03:19 PM
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I'm not sure I undestand what are the new pulley for? They seems to be identical to the stock ones? What is the purpose of selling it with and without bearings?
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Old Today, 03:29 PM
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Appears to be a simple running change upgrade to me. Not so much an “option”

Perhaps it will be standard in future kits?

without bearings is a good idea if it saves some $$$ - especially if you already own a heap or we’re going to use ceramic anyway.
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Old Today, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
I'm not sure I undestand what are the new pulley for? They seems to be identical to the stock ones? What is the purpose of selling it with and without bearings?
I recall someone complaining about the reliability of the standard pulley in modified.
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Old Today, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
I recall someone complaining about the reliability of the standard pulley in modified.
I have as well but this new pulley has nothing to do with resolving that random issue .
Several of us have snapped the nubs off running modified... but since the top drivers in the world don’t have this issue ....lol
tho a 3rd nub would resolve all those issue entirely without question
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