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Awesomatix A800

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A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

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Old 06-10-2019, 07:10 PM
  #4171  
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
I am also looking for an answer of above. I watched the Ryan Maker video. One thing I have to assume is that if it's bent to 90 degrees, the spring is linear. He also said that they run linear in the rear and progressive in the front. So I would think you would bend the rear spring to 90 degrees (47mm tip to tip), then in the front run either 98 degrees (48mm) or 110 degrees (49mm). What is the consensus here?

Also, I'm new to Awesomatix, I just received a used A800X Evo MMMCX with long arms and graphite chassis. I am looking for a beginning setup. I'm older, so I like a car that has the rear end hooked up, so a car with a little push. If the car has too much steering, I struggle. I will be running USGT on medium grip asphalt.

Thanks,
Glenn
That's awesome Glenn! Hope to see you out this weekend with your awesomatix. The car works so good, you won't have any issues setting it up.
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Z...ew?usp=sharing

Hanulec described this set up as "rear end locked in"
This set up may help, I run my set up in a way contrary to most of the Awesomatix aficionados but I also prefer a bit more push than most and emphasis on a stable back end, it's worked well for me. I run on Low - Medium grip outdoor asphalt.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf
A800 21.5 Interclub setup.pdf (674.6 KB, 69 views)
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:18 AM
  #4173  
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Originally Posted by Dan View Post
On recent setups, are people using the 90 or 98 degree soft spring?

In the current Asphalt Setups are the Springs on 90 degrees.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MKAH View Post
In the current Asphalt Setups are the Springs on 90 degrees.
Mostly. But some people still run 98 in the rear

Last edited by yxiaocheng; 06-12-2019 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 06-13-2019, 04:47 AM
  #4175  
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Originally Posted by yxiaocheng View Post

Mostly. But some people still run 98 in the rear
Yes thats true.
But I think if that is so,then you will find an entry in the Comment field.
At Least from the Team Drivers.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:40 AM
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Last edited by Dan; 06-13-2019 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:41 PM
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The SRS screw in one of my P09 blocks will not tighten up, I assume the P09 plastic block is stripped. Nobody has the P09 in stock. Has it been replaced by the P09X?

Here is a photo of my new (to me) car. I will be running it in USGT.




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Old 06-13-2019, 07:46 PM
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The P09X can be used. Take a hobby knife and cut the outer holes off and just keep the middle section. Essentially, you just made a P09.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:05 PM
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It's been a steep learning curve on my new to me A800 mmcx. Nice car, but took some watching videos to learn how to properly refill dampers. I'm pretty much done, but I just noticed that there are no small bolts on the uprights that clamp the wheel bearings. My used car did not come with them. How important are they? I did add the crush collar between the wheel bearings and I have less slop now. Thanks, Glenn
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
The P09X can be used. Take a hobby knife and cut the outer holes off and just keep the middle section. Essentially, you just made a P09.
I actually didn't clip the outer hole off. Still adjusted up fine. Used middle two holes like on the P09. Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
I actually didn't clip the outer hole off. Still adjusted up fine. Used middle two holes like on the P09. Thanks for the info.
I would remove that blue on your car. Not sure it will drive correctly with those shims.
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tbrymer View Post
I would remove that blue on your car. Not sure it will drive correctly with those shims.
Just too cheap to go buy more shims. I guess you can guess what I used to drive.
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Old 06-15-2019, 02:02 AM
  #4183  
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
It's been a steep learning curve on my new to me A800 mmcx. Nice car, but took some watching videos to learn how to properly refill dampers. I'm pretty much done, but I just noticed that there are no small bolts on the uprights that clamp the wheel bearings. My used car did not come with them. How important are they? I did add the crush collar between the wheel bearings and I have less slop now. Thanks, Glenn
Those screws are used for flex not for clamping wheel bearings
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Old 06-15-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Atownbobby View Post
Those screws are used for flex not for clamping wheel bearings
Could you elaborate on how that screw changes flex? Does the flex change if you tighten it more? Trying to figure this out, I can see that the flex changes fore to aft, but the load in that direction is extremely low.

EDIT: Looking at the design, I really think it is for outer wheel bearing clamping. Do you have a reference that says it's for flex?

Last edited by glennhl; 06-15-2019 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 06-15-2019, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
Could you elaborate on how that screw changes flex? Does the flex change if you tighten it more? Trying to figure this out, I can see that the flex changes fore to aft, but the load in that direction is extremely low.

EDIT: Looking at the design, I really think it is for outer wheel bearing clamping. Do you have a reference that says it's for flex?
The latest design eliminates the screw altogether.
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