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Awesomatix A800/A800R

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Old 03-29-2023, 11:28 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Awesomatix A800/A800R
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Last edit by: hanulec
A800R Released March 23, 2023 with two kit versions, A800RA (alloy) and A800RC (carbon)


Mid Motor Content ---

New Part Releases
  • January 2020 - A800-AM24-20 Servo Holder - combine servo holder and steering holder to one single part.
  • February 2020 - A800-ADC Advanced Damper Cup Set - Reduces the amount of rebuild routines. It offers the possibility to A) remove air and B) add oil into the damper without the need of full disassembling
  • January 2021 - A800-BDL - Body Downtravel Limiter, replaces SPR08
  • March 2021 - A800-P138LFA - 38T Pully Low Friction - For Gear Diff
  • March 2021 - A800-P138S-LFA 38T Spool Pulley Low Friction - For Spool
  • April 2021 - A800-C27MMX - Full Length Top Deck for A800MMX
  • May 2021 - A800-C01MMA Alloy Chassis - Battery position is shifted to the front to achieve a better overall weight distribution. Removes short arm holes. New narrower shape
  • September 2021 - A800-C04M1+7.0 Arm - narrows the track width for lower grip levels
  • October 2021 - AM180EVO Single Bellcrank Steering Update - AM180EVO is a direct replacement for AM180M5

A800MMX and A800MMXA Kit Updates
  • AM152/AM24-8 is replaced by AM24-20 in this kit (UPDATE 08.03.2021)
  • P138/P138S is replaced by P138-1/P138S-1 in this kit (UPDATE 25.03.2021)
  • C01B-X-MMA is replaced by C01MMA in MMXA kit (UPDATE 26.05.2021)
  • AM180M5 is replaced by AM180EVO in this kit (UPDATE 21.09.2021)


Below OLD Rear Motor Content ---
Welcome - please help to make this Awesomatix A800 wiki useful!

A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

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Old 02-15-2018, 02:12 AM
  #3076  
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Im using the normal cups and ball studs and have no problems with wandering setups. It would be very strange, if the turnbuckles moved during a normal run without heavy impact. I check setup after every race and most of the time nothing has changed. Any change is either due to a crash/heavy impact or wear. Also the original parts are very resilient. I haven't changed a ball stud or cup in over two years and there still is no play.
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:18 AM
  #3077  
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Originally Posted by Rincewind
Im using the normal cups and ball studs and have no problems with wandering setups. It would be very strange, if the turnbuckles moved during a normal run without heavy impact. I check setup after every race and most of the time nothing has changed. Any change is either due to a crash/heavy impact or wear. Also the original parts are very resilient. I haven't changed a ball stud or cup in over two years and there still is no play.
The wandering I've noticed it mostly due to bent 19-2 not ball cups .
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:01 AM
  #3078  
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I tested a while back using titanium and xray ball cups and bent a few things,went back to stock aluminum and ax ball cups never had an issue since.
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:28 AM
  #3079  
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Ball cups are soft, a few guys running xray cups and studs or Destiny studs and RPM cups to prevent them compressing on the turnbuckle during a hit. That and the servo mount being as smooth as it is, the servo can move slightly during a hit, maybe a half mm or so but plays havoc with your steering trims, and retrimming mid race is no fun!
I found its the servo that moves, not the cups, for mid race re trim.

Started running something similar to this and no more issues:

https://www.rcmaker.com.au/collectio...y-servo-washer
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:19 PM
  #3080  
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I run the awesomatix servo, but found even scuffing the bottom of the mount and using longer screws with loctite there is still some movement.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:24 PM
  #3081  
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Originally Posted by scytherat
What chassis plate is on that?
Awesomatix Hard chassis for 800
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Old 02-18-2018, 06:06 AM
  #3082  
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I will be doing some routine maintenance and changing out all my bearings in my cars and wanted to get opinion/results from others. I have typically used the standard Avid bearings which are very inexpensive. I've looked at the Acer ceramic bearings ($67) and Boca Bearings (~$150 or $400). That is a huge spread for the cost of a bearing kit.

I run an A700 in VTA and A800's in USGT and TC. I don't have any problem spending whatever is beneficial and will make a difference but I also don't want to waste money with no tangible return.

No matter what, I will at least try the Acer Ceramics because they are still relatively inexpensive. But, would I notice a measurable difference if I upgrade to the Boca ABEC1 or ABEC7 bearing kits?

I am a very clean and seasoned racer. I'm looking for any edge I can find in the spec classes. I take very good care of my car and have worked to make everything VERY free and my cars are already in the top 1-2 free spinning cars at the track.

I'd like to hear feedback from folks that KNOW from experience if the high dollar bearings are worth the money and if it would likely translate into a small measurable improvement in lap times.

Last edited by RollingChicane2; 02-18-2018 at 06:07 AM. Reason: Can't spell right today....
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Old 02-19-2018, 01:58 AM
  #3083  
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Hey,

I always like to use the std. Awesomatix B106RS bearings.
I tested also some different brands of bearings and also some ceramic ones.

For me the AVID Aura Driveline Bearing Kit is pretty good. I feelt some tiny bit more free spin of the Car with them.
But no any advantage for faster laptime on track compared to Awesomatix B106RS bearings.
Full Awesomatix bearing kit can be found here:
BBS-1 Drivetrain Ball Bearing Set A800/X ? AWESOMATIX

TIP: I put new bearings for 15 minutes into break cleaner bath. After this they should be free from Oil and grease. Now i put only 1 small drop of a good bearing oil into each single bearing. This is enough and will offer super free running.

Basically i do this every 2 weeks or before each race. Not much work, but big effect.
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:05 PM
  #3084  
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Originally Posted by Warren Weaver
I tested a while back using titanium and xray ball cups and bent a few things,went back to stock aluminum and ax ball cups never had an issue since.
You'd have to run the car to risk breaking anything...
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:24 PM
  #3085  
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Originally Posted by !Mad Max!

TIP: I put new bearings for 15 minutes into break cleaner bath. After this they should be free from Oil and grease. Now i put only 1 small drop of a good bearing oil into each single bearing. This is enough and will offer super free running.
Basically i do this every 2 weeks or before each race. Not much work, but big effect.
Thanks Mad Max, do you remove the seals on the bearing and reinstall them or do you leave one side of the seal off?
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:25 PM
  #3086  
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Does anyone have a bell crank steering setup you want to part ways with? If so, please PM me.
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:49 PM
  #3087  
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2
Does anyone have a bell crank steering setup you want to part ways with? If so, please PM me.
now available
A800-BSSX
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Old 02-19-2018, 10:34 PM
  #3088  
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You should never use motor spray and especially not brake clearer on any RC bearing. Those products make cleaning a breeze but at a price because they are caustic and eat away the surface causing excessive pitting on the races. The best way to clean bearings is to use a citrus cleaner which you can usually find at home depot or even the grocery store and safe to have on your skin. It takes a bit more work but your bearings will thank you. There are several ways to do it, an ultra-sonic cleaner is the best to make a soak with but with our current Aura line having no seals you may pour the citrus cleaner into a bowl and put the bearing on a top shaft, diff outdrive, or idler pin so you can submerse it in the solution and lightly spin the bearing so any debris will work its way out. Once the bearing is smooth again, remove the residue left behind by the citrus cleaner by running water over them and then immediately dry them. We suggest using an air compressor to make sure no water is left but don't let the air compressor spin the bearing (very bad for the balls and races to be operated at such high RPM). Once dry, lubricate quickly to protect the bearings from humidity and so you don’t accidentally run them dry
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Old 02-19-2018, 10:34 PM
  #3089  
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That's straight from Avid
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Old 02-20-2018, 03:24 AM
  #3090  
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2
Thanks Mad Max, do you remove the seals on the bearing and reinstall them or do you leave one side of the seal off?
Hey, i keep the seals in the bearings anytime. I don't like to run without the seal.
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